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What Mode should I shoot?

That is probably the number 2 debate I hear at my classes and conferences that I speak at, the number one is Canon vs. Nikon of course. The answer is of course�it all depends. No Mode is right for everyone, which is why the manufacturers give you choices! I know this will start a debate and I am all for that. Please share what Mode you shoot and why.

Here is a brief explanation of what the different Modes do and their intended purpose. At the end I will tell you what I do and why as well. There are 4 basic Modes: Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and lastly Manual Mode. Program Mode chooses what the manufacturer feels is the best shutter speed and aperture for you from a set of formulas that has been programmed into the computer on board the camera. Aperture Priority means you choose the aperture and control the depth of field and the camera chooses the shutter speed to properly expose the image according to the computer�s programming. Shutter Priority means you choose the shutter speed to control movement in the image and the camera chooses the aperture to properly expose the image according to the computer�s programming. Manual Mode means you control the exposure by selecting a shutter speed and an aperture. Typically you are choosing an exposure from the meter inside the viewfinder, which is done with reflective light. I know this is an extremely simplified explanation but hopefully it gets the message out there.

What I do is a series of questions when I am shooting. The first question is �is movement of the subject a concern�? If the answer is yes, I tend to use Shutter Priority and select a shutter speed to stop movement. Increasing the ISO is sometimes needed if I am not able to achieve a proper exposure with a low ISO. The f-stop indication in the viewfinder will blink if there is not enough light usually. If movement is not a concern, the next question is �is depth of field a concern�? If the answer is yes, I ask an additional question �do I want to isolate the subject�? If that answer is yes, then I will shoot at the widest aperture or close to it, i.e. f2.8 or f4. If the answer is no, then I usually shoot at f11 or f16 for maximum sharpness and depth. I will occasionally shoot at f22 if needed and deal with any diffraction in post processing. If I am shooting with flash or in an overcast light, even fog, then I will shoot in Manual Mode and balance the meter to about +2/3 of a stop. I will say this though, I tend to shoot 90% of all I shoot in Aperture Priority Mode and I will use the Exposure Compensation to lighten or darken the exposure if needed. I have found that with the dynamic range of digital vs. film I am able to shoot in Aperture Priority with great results.

Tell me what you do and why! Camera Land has pretty much finished their move and are ready to ship lots of stuff out! Give them a call for all of your camera needs. Talk with Joel or Mark and let them know you are a member of the Campfire for the best always pricing!

The images below simply demonstrate a slow shutter speed to allow movement in the image while the other shows a higher speed to make sure there is no movement.

I shoot in manual mode most of the time, but will use Aperture Priority some. I shot for an ice hockey league a few years ago, and used shutter priority with exposure compensation, because the light varied depending on where in the rink my subjects were, so with fast action, I couldn't keep up with manual, and I was shooting at ISO 3200, so I needed to keep the histogram to the right, to limit noise. I never use Program or Auto mode.

I never use program or auto either. I shoot a lot of dogs running in the field so I use aperture priority, Use a wide open lens and enough ISO to freeze the dog's. I've recently started using manual and if I have the time I really like it. Also just started using back button focus, jury is out on that still. Use my D70 here at home and can't get it in it. It's in my D5000 but an awkward position. My nephew has a 1DX and the button on it is in a great place.

Cookie doesn't do sports, but with her wildlife efforts it's a toss up between aperture and shutter priorities with a floating ISO.

Personally I think manual focus is the absolute best too if one has time. Tough to get auto focus to work at the middle depths of a pack when the actions going heavy.

Have a good one,

Don, when I do shoot in autofocus, I try to use the back focus button as well. Once you get used to it, the results are quicker. 1minute, For wildlife I am pretty much on manual focus as well. The big exception for me is when I am tracking birds in flight.

Come to think of it, I actually used AP, at f/2.8

I rarely use manual focus; I've found autofocus superior to my own efforts, generally. I have checked autofocus on lenses and bodies, and use micro focus adjustment to calibrate lenses to my primary body.

AP mode is very accurate in most situations. For me, personally, manual focus allows me to keep the critical depth of field sometimes. Autofocus is so advanced now compared to even a couple of years ago, I am sure I will rely on it more as my vision ages even more!

By AP, I mean Aperture Priority.
I do have a manual focus only digital camera that I sometimes use, and I can generally do fine with that, but if I shoot a f1/4 lens with it, wide open, accurate focusing be a little tricky, so I just take several shots.

Here is one of those rare instances where Cookie let me take a shot with her gear as she did not want to risk moving around. With all that trash around, I went to manual focus on the eye. No post processing or cropping but of course downsized for posting. Grazing on rosehips.


Don't have the meta data handy, but it was her EOS 50D and the Canon 100-400 likely not at full extension.

Nice pheasant! Dave,AP mode got a lot better with the old film F5 from Nikon and the advanced Matrix Metering. With all the formulas they put in the processor on the camera it is good for most stuff.

Outdoors Sports - Aperture Priority. Indoor gyms - Manual with Exp Compensation. Manual for all else.

Auto focus with back focus button. Can't do manual focus without a split screen prism fast and accurate enough. Why did those go away?
BTW, wasn't the back focus button a Canon feature that Nikon later picked up (hence the awkward layout)? I just bought a new 7DII, and instinctively went to the back button before setting it up. Found out it's assigned to focus by default in the 7DII! No need to go Cfn04 or whatever it was. In any case, I find separating focus from metering is almost mandatory.

Split screens sort of disappeared when autofocus became so good. I really don't miss it. I used to change to a matt screen away. Did you know that Nikon actually came up with the idea of autofocus before Canon. They actually had it with the motor in the lens but didn't do a good job on a patent with it.

I think autofocus was not part of my consciousness when I started in photography. I do remember my Nikon aperture control was a ring on the lens though.
I can't do manual focus well enough, so I'm glad for auto-focus. Even the new fangled focus-peaking doesn't help me!

Hi,

I shoot manual mode mostly and if I get lazy I'll just set some of the settings in manual to 'auto'. I focus with both the back button and front button depending what I'm shooting.

I have been playing with av mode a little more recently, just to teach my son how to pick up the camera and flip the knob to 'his' setting.

I have a 5dmk3 and 7d and use the custom settings too, so a family member can pick up a body and just click to their number and shoot.

- John

Oh for focus I use mostly center point focus and move it around with the joystick to compose, except with tse lenses...then it's all manual focus, or macro where it's usually just moving the body and shooting things in focus.

I am pretty much a center spot focus myself for auto focus. I'm not sure what you mean by "I'll just set some of the settings in manual to 'auto'". In Manual wouldn't you pretty much have to set the shutter speed and aperture separately?

Like white balance and iso in manual mode...sometimes I cheat and set them to 'auto' especially if light is changing like going in and out of shadows or something.

I can understand the WB in auto, cameras do a great job of getting it right most of the time. I am not sure ISO will do much though because the camera has a set shutter speed and aperture. I will have to play with it on my cameras to see what it does. The Sony automatically defaults to ISO 100 when in Manual and set to Auto. Could be a good way to manipulate flash. Thanks for the idea.