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Joined: Jan 2005
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You can get them cheaper on Amazon and buy them in sets of 3. I think I will give them a try. Could be a nice little bird/trout whatever knife.

http://www.surlatable.com/product/PRO-547703/Kuhn+Rikon+Paring+Knives


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I stopped reading when I got to "made in China".


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My bad. I just saw that they are: Designed in Switzerland; made in China.


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dogzapper

After the game is over, the king and the pawn go into the same box.
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On the many of the cooking/chef knife forums, these are actually highly touted as an inexpensive go to paring knife for the line or at home.

The Shun parer tends to be a first choice.

But yeah, for a quick throw it in the pack or as picnic knife, why not?


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Faith and love of others knows no mileage nor bounds. That's simply the way it is.
dogzapper

After the game is over, the king and the pawn go into the same box.
Italian Proverb

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I see Walmart carries these, I'll see about picking up a couple next time there, $9.58. Should be handy on canoe trips. Don't want to pay shipping.

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I see Walmart carries these, I'll see about picking up a couple next time there, $9.58. Should be handy on canoe trips. Don't want to pay shipping.

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cheap paring knives have long been a standard outdoor knife around here.


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I always keep a few 3.25" and 4" Victorinox serrated paring knives around. Smokey Mountain always has them for around $5 per. No sheath, so you've got to exercise a little care.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
I always keep a few 3.25" and 4" Victorinox serrated paring knives around. Smokey Mountain always has them for around $5 per. No sheath, so you've got to exercise a little care.


[Linked Image]

Use the heck out of them in the kitchen........

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
I always keep a few 3.25" and 4" Victorinox serrated paring knives around. Smokey Mountain always has them for around $5 per. No sheath, so you've got to exercise a little care.


Those little Vickie's are the chit in the fur shed too.
The serrated blade is especially nice for ringing feet.

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Back in the day when I was trapping coyotes in Nevada, I ran a Toyota P U with a front brush guard and gambrel setup. I would skin them while they were worm. I used a Victorinox serrated blade for the legs, tailbone and head cuts. Camnu (sp?) for a sharpening tool. I could do about 200 yotes before I would wear out the serrations on that blade. Knives cost me about $3.00 then. Great knife.

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Originally Posted by threerivers
Back in the day when I was trapping coyotes in Nevada, I ran a Toyota P U with a front brush guard and gambrel setup. I would skin them while they were worm. I used a Victorinox serrated blade for the legs, tailbone and head cuts. Camnu (sp?) for a sharpening tool. I could do about 200 yotes before I would wear out the serrations on that blade. Knives cost me about $3.00 then. Great knife.


Why do you cut the tailbone?
Or am I reading that wrong?


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Fieldgrade you were reading it correctly. I would cut through the tailbone where it was connected to the carcass. I would then use my knee on the hide and body weight to take the hide down to the shoulders. I then used a smooth steel trap stake or large sharpening steel poked through the armpit area to pull the legs free. Then facing the coyote, I pinched the hide between my legs and leaned my weight back. This pulled the hide down to the ears. I used the knife to cut each ear free. I then leaned back a little more and cut the eyes free by sliding the blade between the scull and hide. Lean back a little more and cut the nose free. Done. Working on a warm yote I could skin them in about six minutes this way. Back at camp/home I had a 1"x6"x3' board with a V cut in the end. I would place this board over a small log or rock and stand on the end away from the V. I place the hide on the ground below the board with the tailbone poking up towards me. I grab the bone with a pair of pliers and yank the bone out. I had a metal guild I then slipped into the bone hole in the hide and ran the knife along to split the tail. This is kind of hard for me to explain in writing and takes a lot longer than doing it. Back then it was all about time and energy. I was running 12 to 16 hour days and was cold and tired much of the time. Hope this answered your question.

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Interesting.
Interesting way of doing it.
I've skinned plenty in the field but use a tail stripper and a splitting guide.

http://www.fntpost.com/Products/Tools+for+Tails/Freedom+Brand+Aluminum+Tail+Stripper

Strippers are cheap enough to have a few stashed in packs/trucks and you can always split it back at home.

Different route to the same destination I guess but I don't see the benefit.


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Thanks for the web sight. I did use the splitting guide and have a tail stripper in my toolbox. At the time I had a torn tendon in my elbow and that way worked best for me. Forgot to mention that I used a burlap feed sack between my knee and the hide to give me traction and keep the goo off me. Using that method really saved on my lower back. Over the years I have had the pleasure of knowing and observing some really good trappers. I have noticed that there is at least a dozen ways of doing anything involved with trapping and I was constantly trying to improve on my methods and be more efficient.


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