Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Model 20 250/3000

I have a chance to buy an early model 20 #18xx but have a few questions:
are there any triggers available for them or improvements that can be made to the factory ones?
this one is not d&t for the Lyman peep,anyone scope one with a model 70 stith mount?
this one has had the stock repaired and refinished,not checkered, good bore, sling swivels, asking $800 is that a little high?

No. At least with any REAL degree of improvement. It 2 stage and just something to get used to. It's no real detriment.

IMO. $800.00 is not "too" high. BUT with the repair and refinish, I'd at least TRY to negotiate the price. These aren't rare, but they don't come along every day either. JMO FWIW.

YOU CAN SCOPE IT With a STITH. Yes I Have One. Butt Ugly

How-ever MILLER KODIAK MOUNT Will Work FACT PHILL 99 Had One
I have a FEW OF THOSE MOUNTS.

The Rifle You Described, can go for 550 to 800.00, 800 seems on the high side for the way you described stock, as others said try to negotiate it if you can

I thought the same thing. I mounted a Miller Kodiak and it looked slicker than sh*it. BUT with the scope mounted that low, it was impossible to open the bolt. Do you have a trick that I don't know about? I took the Miller and mounted it on my 22HP. On a 99, it is just fine.

STEPHEN
NO TRICKS, I Only Know WHAT I SAW, AND WAS GONNA DO ONE OF MINE, NEVER KNEW THAT it did not Work for You.! Were was the the bolt interfering at?
STEVE

Lift the bolt normally and it hit the scope. The one I traded to Saddlering at the 2007 fest had a side mounted scope that was actually quite a bit higher than a Miller and that was the reason John didn't care for the gun, because even with that set-up the bolt handle still hit the scope. Not as badly, but it still hit. What I did was wire EDM a one piece mount and rings to move the scope higher yet and I got it to work. When I shoot it, I use a lace on comb pad to lift my heat. Some bend the bolt handle but I didn't want to

Steve-- I didn't have the Miller Kodiak on my 1920; I had it on a Model 45 Super Sporter in 30-30. It worked fine for that. No problems with the bolt handle.

Rod

That's EXACTLY what I figured. Thanks for chiming in.

YA SEE as I Got Older Brain Fart! I was sorta close I knew it was on some bolt gun.

Yup....hate those.....

No problem with the trigger, just familiarize yourself with the two stage systems that were used on military bolt guns like the 1903, 1917 and boatloads of Mausers that were made in the early part of the last century. You need to take up the slack until you feel the sear engagement, or catch point. That's when you do your trigger work. Never fire two stage triggers with one fell swoop of the trigger finger!

Well there ya go. It just doesn't matter in the heat of the moment. I think that a lot of the later 99s have very creapey stagey trigger pulls that you can't do much to compensate for, but you don't hear too to many guys complaining about it.

PS - my hunch is that not too many doughboys with 03s gave a damn about fancy trigger techniques either when they had the Bosch screaming own their necks.

True on ALL counts.

I never think about two-stage pulls. I've been shooting them for nigh onto 50 years now and they are like second nature to me. Actually, "normal" single stage triggers give me pause- I have to reacquaint myself with one every time I use it as most of my rifles are either two-stage pulls or have double set triggers. I have to be especially careful when going to a single stage trigger after working with a double-set for I habitually set the rear trigger when I acquire the target without even thinking about it anymore.

As an aside, here's the weirdest trigger you ever saw on a hunting rifle:





It is a double-set trigger on a Krag varmint rifle. You push the front trigger forward to set the rear trigger, which then goes off with but whisper of finger pressure. It works a treat, and the only down side is it must be set to use it unlike most double-sets that allow the front trigger to work "normally" when unset. It was made by Pacific back in the 30's.





3 shots, 100 yards. .22 Maximum Lovell.

Thats one heck of a Krag you've got there! Miller used to make a device that attached to two stage triggers that had an adjusting screw for taking out the first stage "hump" of military triggers. I have one around someplace for a 1917 Enfield. Its a simple little thing that I'm sure would be easy to replicate and adapt to a 1920, though I'm fine with my two stage pull.

The thing about removing the first stage of a two stage pull is you are intruding into the safety aspect of that trigger system. The first stage of the pull eliminates most of the sear engagement and the second stage trips it. On the guns with two-stage pulls that hefty amount of sear engagement is there for a reason: it goes a long way toward accidental discharge.

That is true.

Exactly. I saw a 1920 that some idiot added a set screw to the front of the trigger to take almost ALL of the initial travel out of the 1st stage. Trigger pull was nice, but when you applied the safety to the on position, you just pushed the trigger from behind and the gun would discharge. The safety was completely overridden. I just do NOT understand how a grown man doesn't have the understanding to just leave things alone and deal with them.

The same can be said of women- best to leave things alone and deal with them! Some of them have two-stage pulls, and some of them have hair triggers!