Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Ruger American Threaded Barrel

I have a friend in Alaska who spends a lot of time fishing, backpacking and camping in bear country. She wants a lightweight, short barreled rifle for bear protection and was considering the Ruger American Compact in .308 Winchester, but noticed that the newer Predator model has a threaded barrel and perhaps a muzzle break would be nice for sighting and range sessions.

So, the question is: Do these threads work for the Ruger Muzzle Break System or does a person need to shop for a break from another provider?

Also, the .308 with stout loads of 180 grain or 200 grain Partitions (or maybe a slightly lighter GMX / TTSX / TSX) should provide a suitable deterrent for even big bears, right? If not, what would be recommended for a short barreled backpack rifle... 338 Federal in a Savage?

THANKS!

Not a gunwriter but had to suggest, i agree with everything you propose except for carrying i would suggest the compact model which is lighter and the stainless model for alaska. That will be my next gun for alaska for the same purposes!

Thanks!
Yes, I agree with the stainless. If she got the 18 inch .308 "Predator" model, she would CeraKote it. It does weigh a bit more than the Compact but not much. I think she is just wondering if the muzzle break (if easily added) would be enough of a benefit to the to consider.

The noise from the break will cancel any recoil reduction.

I'm not familiar with the Ruger Brake system, but the 308 and 6.5C Predators have 5/8-24 threads, which is an industry standard thread for brakes and suppressors. However, the stock design on these soaks up a lot of recoil, and the soft squishy recoil pad helps a lot too; a muzzle brake is probably not necessary.

--(guys, it's "brake", like what slows down your car, not "break" like it's broken).

Ok, Butch but that was not my question. I'm well aware of the noise produced by a break. As I stated above, it would be used for sighting and shooting range sessions. That's why I specifically asked about Ruger's muzzle break system, as it has the matching weight cap when the break is removed. Just wondering if Ruger's system mates with the RAR..?

Thanks for the info. My friend is a little recoil sensitive and this is why the brake is being considered. She was in a horse backing accident in the backcountry of Montana some years ago and damaged her shoulder, neck and back. Still quite sensitive to jolts and bumps. Thanks again for the info on the threads being standard.

huntin_chic,
Late last fall I bought a stainless compact in .308 mostly for hunting, but will use it for bear protection in the off season..
I hunt old growth where 70yds. is a long shot and will be using 200 Partitions both hunting and bear protection..
I have a Skinner peep site for the rear and sourdough front site but still need to order a front ramp to put it altogether...
Simpler, handier, and more robust than a scope..
Plus you can carry the rifle one handed like a M94 Winchester as they are slimmer in the receiver area than most rifles because of their rotary mag I suspect..

I have a M77 Ruger Frontier (16" barrel) in a laminate stock the weighs somewhat more that the Amer. Compact and shooting 200gr. TTSX with a compressed load of TAC it is pretty sporty off the bench..
I expect the same or more recoil with 200gr. Partitions out of the .308 Compact

Here's some things to consider if you haven't already..

The Compact has a shorter stock which may better fit your friend.
Makes the rifle handier also..
I am 6'2" and I like the shorter stock esp. for snap shooting practice..

You can buy a stainless compact, and have the barrel threaded for a brake and cap I am guessing, for the same as or less than having a Predator CreaKoted plus you have the added advantage of a stainless bore..

Personally I would leave the brake on while the rifle was being used for bear protection as it wouldn't hurt to have a rifle with the recoil of a .243 in a bear encounter situation..
When used for hunting I would take the brake off..

To my way of thinking these little .308 Amer. Compacts are about as good as it gets for a handy dandy little camp, canoe, or trail bike rifle..

I will be working up loads for the 200gr NP when it dries up around here..
We are still in the middle of break-up here...
(or is it brake-up?)

I will let you know what I come up for loads for the NP if you like..

Thanks, Nrut!
The stainless Compact was the first rifle my friend was considering. We just noticed the 18" threaded Predator and started considering it as well, due to possibly very easily "braking" it. A heavily loaded 308 Win in about an 8 pound rifle is about at the max of her recoil tolerance level (without a break), due to her injuries. She needs to handle a Compact to see how it fits her, as she is a taller gal (former fashion model).

In that case, it does sound like a brake might work well for your friend. Personally I like to use brakes on some rifles, if they're designed correctly they can take out a lot of recoil without being too much louder. I make my own brakes and like to experiment with them; I've found that rifle brakes with lots of small holes tend to be less noisy than the style with 2 or 3 large ports bored horizontally. Larger diameter brakes can be a little louder, but also reduce more recoil.

The Predator models come with a thread protector. If you're having a standard model threaded, the gunsmith should be able to make you a thread protector on request for not too much more $.

I have seen almost every conceivable brake used on .308s through the years. Some are hideous to be around such as the FTE brake from surefire and others are much more pleasant. In your position I would lean heavily towards Miculek comp by DMPS for $60 as a purely range use brake. If your looking for something that can be run all the time I would look at the BCM gunfighter comp. It is not as effective as the other large port or baffled comps but it is much easier on the ear of the shooter.

Also from what I have seen of the Ruger system, if it is like the one on the Gunsite carbine it is more of a flash suppressor than a muzzle break. There is not much of a benefit in using it if the goal is to reduce recoil.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...ors-amp-muzzle-brakes/index.htm?psize=96

I haven't seen one in person, but judging from the pictures, that Ruger system is definitely a brake, not a flash hider. I like to use a similar style, but with a larger number of smaller holes; they are very effective.

Thanks for the info, guys. I was scrolling through the Ruger website, but don't find where the muzzle break system can be purchased on its own, or even details about it. Maybe because I'm accessing the mobile site (iPhone).

There seems to be lots of other aftermarket brake options...almost too many to read up on all of them. I do like the looks of the slimmer ones (same contour as barrel, or nearly so) with many smallish holes. I saw one with no holes on bottom section so it wouldn't kick up so much dust when shooting under field conditions - that seems a good idea too (can't even remember what brand that was).

CDNN has the Ruger Hawkeye Ultralight 7-08, 20" barrel stainless, on sale this week' mine shoots extremely will and has much less recoil and noise than my Hawkeye RSI 308 with 16" barrel. Performance on bears with heavy Partitions or lighter mono-metal bullets should be indistinguishable.
I would take two inches more barrel over a brake any day, If i thought I might get a break with a former supermodel I would probably come carry the gun for her.

edit to say I'm not a gunwriter except here.

I have a DPMS LR-308 in 308 which is in no way light, BUT it DOES have a 16" barrel with brake, and Lordy is it LOUD! I am thinking of loosening up the brake so I can replace with a thread cap, it is something and in low light, the flash to me seems bigger