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How do you keep the barrel from spinning when using a wheeler style barrel vise with wood blocks? I don't have any rosin but I'll get some if that is what it takes.

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Try some Baby powder.

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I and others use powdered sugar.

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you can get a pound of rosin off ebay for a few bucks.

Never tried it but hear powdered sugar works very well.

I think you'd have better results spending your money on a better vise though

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I wrap my barrel with a wrap of brown paper bag one layer thick. I can bust even the nastiest action loose that way. Mel Doyle has the quickest vise I've ever seen, it's a pair of lead jaws on a 20ish ton press. He can lock a barrel down in about any profile in 2 seconds.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
IC B2

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Thanks!
I'll try powdered sugar and then rosin. I tried corn starch but that didn't work. I know there are better vises but this one cost me ~$12 to build...

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Originally Posted by high_country_
I wrap my barrel with a wrap of brown paper bag one layer thick. I can bust even the nastiest action loose that way. Mel Doyle has the quickest vise I've ever seen, it's a pair of lead jaws on a 20ish ton press. He can lock a barrel down in about any profile in 2 seconds.


If I can't get this to work Mel will get a visit from me. My only complaint about him is he is just far enough away I find excuses not to use him but he is reasonably priced and I only hear good things.

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What are you tearing down? Matt Whaley is in spirit lake and may be able to help. I'm out in Reardan now just getting the shop shook out again.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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I'm pulling apart a rem 700. I'm mostly experimenting. I've spent a bunch more on having others pulled apart and put back together locally than my wrench and vise cost so I'm thinking I can save a little. Not that the service I've received hasn't been earned.

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I can snap it loose for you or I would bet Matt would do the same. I have found all of my vice parts except the bushings. ...but if it wearing a rem sporter or mag shorter that bushing is in my vice now.

Mel was using a hammer wrench setup to break them loose, the impact appears to be the key to his success. I use a full wrap around wrench that simply cannot slip. Not sure on Matt's deal, but I can say that he is a good guy with a strong and growing following in your area.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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I use the Brownell's vice with rosin and aluminium bushing, plus i use a torch to warm the barrel and heat up the locking compound Rem uses on the threads and then most of the time the inside action wrench with a whack from my copper hammer will loosen the barrel from the action and then it will just screw off. Very seldom i have to use the big strong arm wrench to break her loose .

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[Linked Image]


A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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I've seen well considered warnings against using an inside wrench for initial disassembly.

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never had a problem , the wrench is made from Aluminum not Steel and the barrel will break loose from the action very easy, the secret is to soften up the thread locker with a little heat. The thread locker is the reason Remington barrel are hard to remove.


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Originally Posted by high_country_
I can snap it loose for you or I would bet Matt would do the same. I have found all of my vice parts except the bushings. ...but if it wearing a rem sporter or mag shorter that bushing is in my vice now.

Mel was using a hammer wrench setup to break them loose, the impact appears to be the key to his success. I use a full wrap around wrench that simply cannot slip. Not sure on Matt's deal, but I can say that he is a good guy with a strong and growing following in your area.


I'll keep messing with it and see where I get. It is just a sporter 243. I hadn't heard of Matt's shop. I'll have to look into his work. Thanks for the heads up.

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Mathman,
If you catch the lugs in the front ring, you are OK. Catch them on the rear ring, guess what? I learned the hard way several years ago.

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[quote=mathman]I've seen well considered warnings against using an inside wrench for initial disassembly. [/quote

I've had more than a few inquiries about TIG welding damaged bolt guide rails and damage to other internal features,....inflicted by inside wrenches.

.....think I'll pass.

GTC


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Originally Posted by crossfireoops
[quote=mathman]I've seen well considered warnings against using an inside wrench for initial disassembly. [/quote

I've had more than a few inquiries about TIG welding damaged bolt guide rails and damage to other internal features,....inflicted by inside wrenches.

.....think I'll pass.

GTC



It's not the tool it's how it's used,

Yeah if you put the wrench in there and start whacking it with a hammer sure youre going to create impact marks and foul stuff up.

I made my own wrench that fits better then the ones Ive seen the technique is install the wrench and use a large breaker bar with a cheater if need be. Warm the barrel up a bit, Then apply torque, steady even but progressively more torque until it pops loose, Rem's don't take much to pop loose.

Do it that way and you'll stop way before any damage could possibly be done.

That same wrench removed a barrel from a 1917 enfield and that was on there tighter then dicks hat band, no marks on the action, none on the wrench, and the barrel didn't even think of turning with all the rosin i used.

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I don't beat on the inside wrench i just give it light whack not very hard and usually just one time will do it if you have the thread locker soften up . Never had a problem and have never damage a action . I use the strong arm wrench if the action won't break loose after the first couple of tries with the Davidson Wrench

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My remington wrench fits tight enough with a single layer of paper to hold itself without the other half. I don't fuss with heat, just set the bolts add a rap and it's loose.

[Linked Image]


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Originally Posted by bea175
I don't beat on the inside wrench i just give it light whack not very hard and usually just one time will do it if you have the thread locker soften up . Never had a problem and have never damage a action . I use the strong arm wrench if the action won't break loose after the first couple of tries with the Davidson Wrench

[Linked Image]


I wasn't trying to insinuate that you did, What I mean is really beat on it,

Giving it a little persuasion is no issue.

The #1 reason to use an internal wrench is to preserve and prevent any possibility of fouling up the external surfaces. Yes you can tweak and action if you're not careful but as alway you had better be paying attention to what the hell you're doing or you have no business work on firearms

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