I've got new 416 barrel that will here shortly, can I coat it before it is chambered and fitted to the action

Dunno. Why not apply the DBC after the bbl is fitted?

Certainly can do that. I was thinking that the coating would be as thorough as possible le since the barrel is freshly made with no shots fired.

Have DBC'd several new barrels, which worked very well. But always at least cleaned them with some degreasing solvent beforehand.

Thanks.

Is there a way to be confident with dbc absent a bore Scope?

I think the DBC helps in the throat as much or more than anywhere.

I do a break in and then DBC to fill in the low spots.

My gunsmith runs a patch through the bore at least oncd to get any chips out after chambering--I've watched him do it. He also proof fires the gun before he returns it to the customer.

I did considerable experimenting with DBC when it appeared around 2008. Eventually they used my directions in pre-cleaning, which went something like this:

Wrap a caliber-sized bore brush with at least one cotton patch. Then smear the patch with JB Compound, and run it back-and-forth 20 times. The brush/patch combo MUST be tight enough to take some effort to push through the bore. If one patch isn't enough, use two,

Next, clean out the residue from the JB with a typical bore solvent such as Hoppe's, or even rubbing alcohol, using cotton patches on an appropriately sized pointed jag. Use one patch at a time until the patches come out pale.

Clean with any typical copper solvent, again until patches come out pale. Then degrease with rubbing alcohol or acetone on tight patches. I generally use acetone because it evaporates quicker than rubbing alcohol.

Used my Hawkeye borescope to develop this procedure, and never had a bore that wasn't absolutely clear of any sort of fouling--or failed to "take" DBC well.

I typically apply DBC after chambering but before shooting.

Has anyone used DBC on a muzzleloader? I'm wondering if it makes follow up shots load easier.

second the muzzleloader question. I have a 50cal Green Mountain that was mistreated, still shoots well but has some rough spots in barrel

It’s worked well for me on several rifles. Never tried on muzzleloader but am tempted. Have heard good reviews for use on muzzleloaders but am skeptical because I always thought it was the high pressure & friction of the typical high powered, jacketed rifle rounds that “cured” it...

I’m probably wrong about that but don’t know the guys who’ve reviewed it’s use on muzzleloaders. Hard to imagine black powder & patched round balls creating the requisite pressure & friction.

Dunno

How does it work it in rifles that are used exclusively with cast bullets? To be more specific, target rifles using cast bullets.

I think it would have to be cured with jacketed loads first

Yes, I've treated a few and it does great things to bore. Fouling seems to come off much easier. I just did my brand new Pedersoli Brown Bess with DBC before firing the first time. It's down in the reloading cave, standing barrel-down as I write.

I'm generally at least spit patching between shots. I haven't attempted a fast reload on game in 20 years, and I have to admit it was not pretty. I may not be the best source. However, I will say that DBC doe make getting a ramrod down the barrel a bit easier, and more fouling comes out on the first pass.

More than one muzzleloader manufacturer was installing DBC in their new rifles a few years ago. Can't remember the brands, but may find them in my notes somewhere.

Have installed DBC in a couple of rifles old enough to have somewhat pitted barrels, probably due to corrosive primers. It helped noticeably with cast-bullet accuracy.

DBC also reduces plastic-fouling in shotgun chokes.

Sufficient heat for curing DBC comes from burning powder.

On a new barrel, I would do a basic break in before applying it.

The first few bullets down a fresh chamber are what smooth out the swarf from the chambering operation in the throat area. I wouldn't do anything that would introduce a variable to that process.

Good shootin' -Al

After applying Dyna Bore Coat I recommend using a starting load for about the first five rounds down the barrel.Factory loads should be OK because they run a little lower pressure.

Al,

I haven't done a formal "break-in" of a new barrel in years. Instead I just start shooting them, cleaning after every range session for a while--which does the same thing.

This also let's me know if the barrel night benefit from DBC. Many of today's don't, even factory barrels. One of our PD rifles is a heavy-barreled Remington 700 .223 I bought new in 2001--which was before DBC appeared, but right about the same time Ramshot TAC came out. Took it on a PD shoot that Ramshot held, and the rifle basically never fouled, at least not enough to affect accuracy.

Didn't clean it until we got home, and there was only the faintest hint of both copper and powder fouling, which came out with one patch of solvent--whereupon accuracy went south for about 15 rounds, until a tiny bit of fouling built up again. Cleaned it again after another 500 rounds without cleaning, and the same thing happened.

Never DBC'd it until several thousand rounds later, when the throat got a little rough and accuracy deteriorated some. Fired enough bore-lapping shots to eliminate the roughness, which brought most of the accuracy back, but apparently caused the bore to foul more. That's when I DBC'd it, and it went back to never needing cleaning.

Have a few other factory rifles since then that acted a lot like that one, especially hammer-forged barrels--another reason I don't clean 'em much anymore.

John

After shooting and not cleaning question.

Are you patching bore with oil, or for example Hoppes9, to saturate present powder and copper fouling to prevent potential corrosion from fouling attracting moisture from ambient and pitting bore?

I understand DBC does protect bore from potential corrosion from ambient moisture acting with bbl fouling.

A barrel treated with DBC? I certainly don’t. The coating has done an amazing job at protecting the bore from corrosion. A friend had a DBC’d rifle in a house fire. Most metal in the house looked like it was salvaged from a shipwreck. The treated bore had some junk in it, but a bit of solvent and a patch or two pushed it all out and the bore was still shiny and unharmed in the least.

Cool.

Thanks for that info.

I DBC new barrels, thinking they'll never be cleaner than when new and bore prep is very important for a good DBC job.

Seems to me those DBC "failures" people talk about are more likely than not, a failure to really get the bore clean down to raw steel.

A Hawkeye does help in that regard. Clean patches don't always tell the whole story.

DBC is especially helpful with a rough barrel. IME, they foul less and less after each shoot and clean cycle.

I even DBC premium barrels. They may not need it, but they get it anyway.

DF

^^^^^^^ THIS.^^^^^^ I have to agree fully with that.
Prior to getting my borescope, I had the bright idea that since I had a few new unfired factory rifles that I had thoroughly cleaned with a phosphor bronze brush and Shooters Choice, that I could simply go ahead, degrease and dyna bore coat.
After all, I thoroughly cleaned them till the patches came out white, right?

Sure glad I waited till I got my bore scope, it would have been a disaster, I'm sure.
Here are a Remington 700 and a Ruger 77, new from factory and unfired that I would have sworn were spotless till I stuck the borescope down the tube.



And same 2 barrels after a proper cleaning with JB Bore Paste & Kroil on a patched phosphor bronze bore brush prior to dyna bore coating. Quite a difference in what I thought were clean barrels.

Tag

Thanks for that very graphic illustration.

DF

Those pictures tell the story. I thought about getting a Hawkeye for years but never quite got around to it. I thought about the amount of pretty good wine I could buy for the same sum. 😉 Then I learned about the Teslong and bought one two years ago. It isn’t the gold standard, but it serves my purposes nicely. It costs a bit more than $50.

Wink, is the Ruger bbl the one with the drill tool marks shown in your photo?

I've a new Ruger American. Examining bore w/Teslong looks great from throat until ~3 inch from muzzle. Then the drill tool marks begin extending to the muzzle. Disappointing, but it is a mass produced economy barrel.

I did call lady at Ruger customer care commenting on the tool marks, asking if Ruger test fires guns before boxing as there were traces of copper in bore. Yes she says, Ruger test fires, and yes, tool marks are normal.

I did DBC this barrel after removing the copper from Ruger test firing gun. Good scrubbing w/JB paste, Hoppes9, CR10, then Hoppes, then a final wash w/ denatured alcohol.

Clean and dry bore when the DBC was applied. I orient bbl muzzle down when applying DBC. Leave it that way overnight to allow DBC to dry. I shot the curing cartridges a couple days later.

Now, that's a MUCH better price.

DF

I coated a green mountain appx 15 years ago. Worked really well. I'd replaced a TC hawken tube that I'd sent in due to bad accuracy. 4-5 inches at 100. They got the same and said it was satisfactory. So I've named that TC barrel my Douglas blackpowder barrel. LOL.

In that factory tube it was fired enough with real black. Then cleaned well. Coated and fired. Cleaned and coated and fired again. Then it was left. Fouling at all. For over a year. Pulled it, white growth etc... swabbed and checked. Zero rust etc... That was probably 15 years ago and Ive never touched it since, still no rust.

I've never seen a negative. I've seen a few cases where you have to treat em a few times. And I've retreated a 338 mag that was rough.

But all barrels get either that or salt bath nitride.

54 years ago is a long time.
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.harhar!

2nd pic in each set is the Ruger. I was aware Ruger & Remington test fires their guns, just didn't think they'd be that bad after a test firing or 2 AND the fact that I thoroughly cleaned them with Shooters Choice after I received them(both bought new by me, so I know). Nedless to say, I don't use Shooters Choice anymore.

My cleaning regimen and then installation of DBC is pretty much the same as yours. Additionally, when I orient the muzzle straight up & down overnight against a corner wall, I put it on an old sock under the muzzle, reason being the next day, when the sock lifts up with the muzzle and I have to slightly pull it off, then I know I used enough Dyna Bore Coat on the gun. Never been a problem so far except for one H&R 22 pistol where the sock didn't come up with the muzzle so I simply recoated it again and it was fine the 2nd time.

well thats not even close to 15 but...

I'm about to do my first UBC application, can someone attach a link to JB's thread describing the entire process?

Here ya go 405

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt.../dyna-tek-bore-coat-instructions-revised

It's in the instructions that came with UBC/DBC.

Thanks!

I have used it on a couple of barrels and I think it works great. I did not stand the rifle up as was suggested just let the muzzle be down below the action. Next one I do, I will do with the barrel vertical like was descried.

I am a fan.

I have coated many rifles and my muzzleloader.

I typically shoot the rifle first, cleaning the barrel completely after the first few range sessions. Every barrel is a little different. If it is showing a lot of fouling, I use JB compound. If it seems to clean easily, then I only use the JB the first couple of times.

Then I apply the bore coat according to MD's instructions. Have only had one botched job, and do not know what happened.

I especially like it in big bores, 9.3 and up. For some reason I have struggled get them clean.

I do not clean as aggressively as I used to. Once bored coated, some foam cleaner to get the top layer out after a shooting session and am done. If accuracy is slipping, then I do a deep clean with all the copper solvents.

A borescope is a fantastic tool. Do not regret purchasing one. Every looney should have one!

I might have to give this stuff a try. How does it do in 22lr barrels?
So once you have your barrel squeaky clean you apply the dyna coat. Then do you have to immediately fire rounds threw it to cure it? Or can you wait a day or two?
I went to they’re web page and I must say it’s not very good. And the only place that I can find that carries it is Brownell’s. Can you F up the process by applying to much or to little? Or what happens if 100% of your barrel isn’t squeaky clean?

I've let barrels sit a week. All thats happening is the carrier is evaporating
and then you have to heat treat it to get it to stick. Timeline doesn't matter much. I do it as quick as I can but not worried about it.

Not totally clean? Might have to retreat, IE scrub with JB paste etc.... and retreat. I've had to do it a few times on a stubborn gun. Nothing negative other than it just didn't work quite as well.

too little won't coat. Too much will run out.

So it has a consistency of basically water? And one bottle will do 4/5 rifles?

Once I DBC a barrel, I never use a brush again, just soak it with Eliminator or Patch Out. A patch is the most aggressive cleaning device I use.

Mostly I get them bore scope clean with one or two such treatments. Seems they’re easier and easier to clean.

DF

Several years ago when the company had a female support rep. I was able to call her and ask her several questions.

First question was does a 22 rimfire round give enough heat to cure the Dyna Bore Coat.
Her answer was yes.

Second question was shelf life of the product.
She said one year. I disagree with this but of course her aim is to sell the stuff. As Mule Deer has stated, as long as it is liquid, and not hardened, it works fine. Keep the bottlecap on tight and store it in the fridg. I have an almost empty bottle in the fridg that is about 4 years old, just a drop left and every time I open it to check it it is still in liquid form.

Third question was what was the longest allowable time that you can wait from installing the Dyna Bore Coat in the barrel till you have to shoot it to cure it.
Her answer was indefinitely, didn't matter. She said if the barrel is clean and you coated it properly with the DBC , the glue hardens/sets and you have a protective coating in your barrel. At any time after that you can fire it to cure it.

Yes it does have the consistency of water once you take it out of the fridg and let it get to room temperature. Make sure you shake it well before using.

If you are careful, set things up so as you install the DBC through the muzzle and have the bottle RIGHT underneath it to catch the drips, you can get way more than 4/5 rifles treated with one bottle.
The other trick is to try to use the same patch for rifles of the same caliber and do them at the same time. For example, if you have 6 .22 rimfires, have them all cleaned/degreased, then DBC them all with the same patch on your rod. You will find you have used hardly any DBC at all in the process because it is so thin. More DBC is wasted in the patch that is discarded(and the drips that don't fall back into the bottle) after use than is used in the rifle barrel.

I treated 29 rifles and one pistol using just one bottle of DBC in this manner with nary a problem.

Thank you wink man, great instructions.

I put the barreled action in a padded vice, chamber up, bore down.

I attach a shotgun hull to the end of the barrel with tape.

Any excess product drops into the hull and I recharge my mop from there, so there is no waste.

DF

wink,
Those are some impressive photos - both for clarity and cleaning results.

Thanks, and taken by a cheap $50 Teslong flexible borescope no less.