I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.
Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.
Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?
Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?
I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.
I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks
PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?
I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.
Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.
Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?
Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?
I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.
I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks
PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.
Look here
Collet dies are GTG......
https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/RM3512.pdf
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?
This ♤
BTW it was mathman who wrote up the directions. Sounds like you are close to busting the die
Valad, the point of Lee Collet dies is to use them instead of the FL die. Put the expander back in the RCBS and push it through the neck ( might have to use a bit of lube). Then load them and use the Lee next loading without the RCBS sizer.
https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021/07/tips-for-using-lee-collet-dies-for-neck-sizing-brass/The above link should help you. The very best tutorial is the one our Mathman wrote up....
Maybe you can find it or send him a pm.
You should just be using the collet die to resize, not another full sizer die...
Agree, Mathman’s collet die instructions are superior to the Lee instructions.
Try to get his info.
DF
Recap from old thread on collet die adjustment:
The first thing I recommend is to ignore the instructions supplied with the die.
The second thing I recommend is to ignore whether or not the press you're using cams over at the top of its stroke.
The die squeezes the neck onto a mandrel, so for a given neck thickness there is a finite limit to how much sizing you can achieve. This die will need adjustment to suit different thicknesses of brass.
Raise the press ram to the top of its stroke. Thread the die into the press until the bottom of the sizing collet (not the die body) just touches the shell holder. Measure the neck OD of a piece of brass.
Run the brass through the die using a full press stroke. It should take no effort since if you're set up as described the die has done no sizing. Turn the die into the press about 1/4 turn. Run the brass in again. You probably won't feel much sizing going on, but give the neck a measurement just to see. If it's still nothing, screw the die in another 1/4th and try again. You'll may start feeling a bit going on as you work the press handle, and if so you'll be able to measure a little sizing taking place.
Rinse and repeat using 1/16th turn in increments for the die. You'll feel increases in the force required for the sizing stroke. Since you're measuring the neck after each pass you'll eventually find two increments where the neck didn't get any smaller. NOW STOP TURNING THE DIE INTO THE PRESS. Remember you're squeezing the brass against a solid steel mandrel which isn't going to give, so even if the press stroke didn't feel like it took very much force the neck is as small as it's going to get.
There's a learning curve to the die, but it isn't hard.
I like to run cases through the die twice, spinning the case about 1/3 turn (rather than the 1/2 turn in the instructions) between passes. This means the parts of the neck that were under the splits in the collet fingers on the first pass will get hit on the second pass.
Correctly executing the set up method I outlined above makes camming over or not a moot point, and it will not even come close to popping the cap. Furthermore since the full press stroke is used every time I don't have to "judge my lean" on the handle.
The above link is good info. I polish my mandrel slightly in the area that the collet clamps down on only so the neck is slightly expanded when case is extracted. This makes up for slight differences in springback due to variation in annealing.
mathman’s instructions for the LCD are excellent.
But…you have already sized the neck of the brass
down to a smaller diameter with the FL die. LCD dies do not like to expand a neck that has already been sized. The LCD works best if the neck has not been sized.
Recap from old thread on collet die adjustment:
The first thing I recommend is to ignore the instructions supplied with the die.
The second thing I recommend is to ignore whether or not the press you're using cams over at the top of its stroke.
The die squeezes the neck onto a mandrel, so for a given neck thickness there is a finite limit to how much sizing you can achieve. This die will need adjustment to suit different thicknesses of brass.
Raise the press ram to the top of its stroke. Thread the die into the press until the bottom of the sizing collet (not the die body) just touches the shell holder. Measure the neck OD of a piece of brass.
Run the brass through the die using a full press stroke. It should take no effort since if you're set up as described the die has done no sizing. Turn the die into the press about 1/4 turn. Run the brass in again. You probably won't feel much sizing going on, but give the neck a measurement just to see. If it's still nothing, screw the die in another 1/4th and try again. You'll may start feeling a bit going on as you work the press handle, and if so you'll be able to measure a little sizing taking place.
Rinse and repeat using 1/16th turn in increments for the die. You'll feel increases in the force required for the sizing stroke. Since you're measuring the neck after each pass you'll eventually find two increments where the neck didn't get any smaller. NOW STOP TURNING THE DIE INTO THE PRESS. Remember you're squeezing the brass against a solid steel mandrel which isn't going to give, so even if the press stroke didn't feel like it took very much force the neck is as small as it's going to get.
There's a learning curve to the die, but it isn't hard.
I like to run cases through the die twice, spinning the case about 1/3 turn (rather than the 1/2 turn in the instructions) between passes. This means the parts of the neck that were under the splits in the collet fingers on the first pass will get hit on the second pass.
Correctly executing the set up method I outlined above makes camming over or not a moot point, and it will not even come close to popping the cap. Furthermore since the full press stroke is used every time I don't have to "judge my lean" on the handle.
Like......
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?
mathman,
Previously I sized brass and had runout of something like 4 thousands, maybe 5 thousands. This makes me think its the die itself that is causing the runout.
From what everyone is saying if I size on the RCBS dies then sizing the necks are not needed.
But if I shot these ammo in the rifle then only neck sizing is needed.
I resize the brass without the mandrel. Saw an article by John Barsness that he put the mandrel back in the die and did not snug down. Is this going to produce less run out?
I will try the instruction recomend above. And yeah I have followed mathman's instructions. Thanks.
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?
mathman,
Previously I sized brass and had runout of something like 4 thousands, maybe 5 thousands. This makes me think its the die itself that is causing the runout.
From what everyone is saying if I size on the RCBS dies then sizing the necks are not needed.
But if I shot these ammo in the rifle then only neck sizing is needed.
I resize the brass without the mandrel. Saw an article by John Barsness that he put the mandrel back in the die and did not snug down. Is this going to produce less run out?
A properly set up FL die cannot produce runout.
That statement is probably going to set some people off so let me explain.
A FL die is made by rotating a blank die body in a lathe chuck while feeding in a precision ground reamer which is held in a floating reamer holder. Even if the original hole in the blank die body is out of round or not on center (highly unlikely because all internal operations are done in the same set up) the floating reamer holder will allow for any slop in the lathe.
Where a FL die CAN produce neck runout is when the sizing mandrel is pulled out of the neck which is why Mule Deer suggests removing the stem (or I use a stem from a smaller caliber such as a 270 stem in a 30-06 die to do the decapping) then pushing the correct size mandrel INTO the case in a separate operation.
A lot of induced runout can also be minimized by leaving the stem a little loose and only snugging up the lock nut at the top of the press stroke when the decap pin is in the primer hole which will insure that the decap stem is centered.
I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.
Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.
Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?
Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?
I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.
I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks
PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.
Look here
Collet dies are GTG......
https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/RM3512.pdfThis....
IIRC Lee collet dies must be screwed into the press far enough so that the press handle mechanism does not cam over. If this is not set up properly then it is possible to either jam the collet itself or bugger the cap on the top of the collet die. If the former the dies must be disassembled to loosen the collet, if the latter occurs a replacement cap is required.
Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.
It's good practice to apply a bit of grease on the tapered portion of the LEE collet or sleeve.
This is a metal on metal wear area where lube is a benefit.
I do this for my dies.
Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.
Then you learn. They have more aluminum caps for a nominal fee. BTW, in a bind, you can sub an aluminum cap from another die. They interchange. Don’t ask…..
That’s why I recommend Mathman’s instructions. Saves on aluminum caps.
DF
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.
With any reloading operation, finesse is the thing.
. You have to “sneak up” on the correct neck diameter.
I have no idea what mathman suggests, but the resistance must be negligible on the up stroke at the start of your adjustments, when the first case goes into the die. Resistance gradually increases as the die/cap is adjusted down. Checking the fit (inside case neck diameter) with each turn. The downward adjustment must be done in small increments or you can damage the aluminum cap.
It takes about a minute or so to adjust the die. I have used the Lee collet with five different presses, including a Rock Chucker. Cam over isn’t a problem as long as the die/cap is adjusted down in small increments.
Steve,
You’re right. Mathman shows how to do just that without carnage.
At least I didn’t go thru too many aluminum caps.
Even slow learners catch on eventually. Blind hog sometimes finds an acorn.
It ain’t rocket surgery.
DF
Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.
Then you learn. They have more aluminum caps for a nominal fee. BTW, in a bind, you can sub an aluminum cap from another die. They interchange. Don’t ask…..
That’s why I recommend Mathman’s instructions. Saves on aluminum caps.
DF
I haven’t popped a cap yet, but in process of learning how to use the LCD I’m pretty sure I came close….
Steve,
You’re right. Mathman shows how to do just that without carnage.
At least I didn’t go thru too many aluminum caps.
Even slow learners catch on eventually. Blind hog sometimes finds an acorn.
It ain’t rocket surgery.
DF
🙂. Glad to hear it.
The short of it is, don’t fight the press. Be gentle. Your equipment and loads will appreciate it!
Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.
Then you learn. They have more aluminum caps for a nominal fee. BTW, in a bind, you can sub an aluminum cap from another die. They interchange. Don’t ask…..
That’s why I recommend Mathman’s instructions. Saves on aluminum caps.
DF
I haven’t popped a cap yet, but in process of learning how to use the LCD I’m pretty sure I came close….
You just not ham handed enough. I’m not saying you a wuss…., not a man’s man….!
Just saying you have too much finesse to blow an aluminum cap.
Ha!
DF
FL dies don’t have mandrels, they have an expander, sometimes referred to as an expander ball.
The LCD has a mandrel.
Mandrels and expander balls size the neck using different methods, but obviously the result is the same.
Not exactly the same result?
Not exactly the same result?
Not exactly.
A LCD mandrel sized case is likely to be more concentric. The down side with that die, you occasionally need a body die which is an extra step.
The expander pulled thru a case neck can pull the case sorta crooked, if one side of the case is a bit thinner than the other. Cases aren't always perfect.
The LCD with mandrel doesn't pull anything thru the neck, but compresses the neck from all sides, not disturbing the concentricity of the case.
DF
It is both gratifying and amazing that this thread has gotten this far without anyone piously checking in to inform us that Lee makes some cheap stuff that, while serviceable, does not meet the quality of equipment from superior manufacturers that is favored by truly discerning handloaders.
Not exactly the same result?
Not exactly.
A LCD mandrel sized case is likely to be more concentric. The down side with that die, you occasionally need a body die which is an extra step.
The expander pulled thru a case neck can pull the case sorta crooked, if one side of the case is a bit thinner than the other. Cases aren't always perfect.
The LCD with mandrel doesn't pull anything thru the neck, but compresses the neck from all sides, not disturbing the concentricity of the case.
DF
Yep, a LCD has a better chance of making straight necks of even cantankerous brass. But, I have a few FL and NK dies that can make necks as straight as my LCD’s. Although the advantage to the LCD is it doesn’t stretch the brass.
What die works best is often dependent on the chamber and the particular brand/lot of brass I’m using. Which is why I have learned not to sell my dies.
As an added note, I have good success making straight necks with conventional dies by judiciously sanding and polishing the expander ball, paying special attention to the transition from the taper to the full diameter.
Not exactly the same result?
Not exactly.
A LCD mandrel sized case is likely to be more concentric. The down side with that die, you occasionally need a body die which is an extra step.
The expander pulled thru a case neck can pull the case sorta crooked, if one side of the case is a bit thinner than the other. Cases aren't always perfect.
The LCD with mandrel doesn't pull anything thru the neck, but compresses the neck from all sides, not disturbing the concentricity of the case.
DF
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/wBMH4Fw7/xmpl-b.jpg)
It is both gratifying and amazing that this thread has gotten this far without anyone piously checking in to inform us that Lee makes some cheap stuff that, while serviceable, does not meet the quality of equipment from superior manufacturers that is favored by truly discerning handloaders.
Lee:
-Brilliant engineering
-Adequate quality control
-Suspect materials
Sorry, I just could not resist!
😊
Gee!
I have heard of some other folks who do the same things. But in general PUSHING the expander ball (if it's straight) into the neck results in straighter necks. This is because the bottom of the case is supported by the bottom of the shell-holder.
All of which is why I test every new set of "conventional" sizing dies (whether neck or full-length) to see how they do before loading any batch of ammo.
Sometimes they make straight cases right out of the box. If not, I use various techniques to fix 'em.
Must also note that have encountered more than one sizing die over the decades that was defective, due to the neck portion being out-of-line with the body....
I know this.
But that’s not what I posted.
I’ve been using LCD’s for a number of years now. I use FL, Body, NK, and LCD dies, depending on what works best.
I’ve been measuring runout ever since I bought my Sinclair concentricity gauge 35 years ago.
Sometimes they make straight cases right out of the box. If not, I use various techniques to fix 'em.
Must also note that have encountered more than one sizing die over the decades that was defective, due to the neck portion being out-of-line with the body....
If I’m at the point where I have to push the expander instead of pull to make straight necks, I resort to a body die and LCD.
Sanding/ polishing the expander has often made a suspect die into an excellent one for me.
An out of alignment body and neck may well explain why I have some dies that have been hopeless!
The beauty of the Lee Collet system is the cost factor. For nominal cost one can make ammo about as concentric as a near $300 competition die set with neck sizing bushings, no need for an expander.
With those dies the sizer sizes the case body, the neck sizing bushing can be changed to get the perfect neck sizing without needing an expander.
The seaters are precise with micrometers. Now, as noted earlier, I’m not overly impressed with Lee seaters. They’re hit and miss. With some rounds I use a better seater, some with floating bullet guides.
And I do check concentricity with a Sinclair, correct run out with a TruAngle tool.
DF
When using a standard expander style full length or neck sizing die, one thing that helps is to not excessively reduce the neck diameter to start with. Acro Lap tools are a great way to lap the I.D. of the neck portion of a die.
https://www.penntoolco.com/acro-laps-for-high-speed-lapping-polishing-deburring/
I have been looking for such a tool for a long time.......thanks Al
You’d have to be careful to keep it concentric, not remove too much material, you can’t put it back.
But that would be cheaper than buying a fancy set of competition dies with neck bushings. At least with those, you can swap out different bushings to tweak neck pressure with different neck thickness.
Lapping, you get one shot at getting it right. And better use brass with consistent neck thickness or turn the necks.
I’ll stick with LCD’s and a body die. I like to make body dies from Lee FL dies. Cheaper than a Redding body die.
Sometimes a body die can be adapted, removing decapping/expander from a larger caliber, same case body. Ex. .308 body die for 7-08, etc.
Lee Collet sizer is the least expensive way to get there. Especially if you buy their 4 die set and make your body die from the included FL die. To me that the best use of a Lee Fl sizer.
DF
Have happily used the LCD for several calibers along with a Redding body die. I usually end up lightly sanding them to get the desired neck tension. I like a bit more for my hunting rounds. Great combo! I will say I used to buy a set of Redding dies as a default. Recently had a set of 30-06 dies that pretty much leaves zero neck tension. I have pretty for the most part moved over to Forster sets and am very happy.
I do fair bit of die modifications to fit certain situations. If you just need to hone a few thou. for a better neck fit, the Acro Laps really work well. Pin gauges to verify the size as the process goes along. The hardened layer is from .004-.006 thick on most dies so 400 grit lapping compound followed by some 600 as the final finish. The Lee stuff I've worked on is around .002 so keep that in mind.
For doing more extensive die work, I made this holder. The die with an 'o' ring under the lock ring is threaded into the adapter, the die is indicated in the lathe chuck and then whatever mods I'm making get done.
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/mvVla8pl.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/wqX6u81l.jpg)
Good shootin'
-Al
Al, my concentricity concern, looks like you have it addressed.
DF
This is a Redding Body Die I modified to be a fixed dimension (.327) full length sizer for the 30BR cases. The 7BR die neck opening was .311 so I used a stepped carbide reamer (.311/.327).
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/ZzPz3XKl.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/EoV0aQDl.jpg)
lt ain’t rocket surgery.
DF
True enough 🤣
A set of LCD sure saved the day on my 22 Hornet reloading, I was about ready to pull my hair out till MD helped me understand bullet runout and it's effect on the old school Hornet case neck design.
41
lt ain’t rocket surgery.
DF
True enough 🤣
A set of LCD sure saved the day on my 22 Hornet reloading, I was about ready to pull my hair out till MD helped me understand bullet runout and it's effect on the old school Hornet case neck design.
41
And I discovered that the Hornet LCD works with the K-Hornet. That was to me a bonus.
DF
I have one for each. What I especially like about LCDs is they are an economical solution to neck sizing. There are times when neck sizing is preferable. For me, thin Hornet brass is a good reason to use them. I had considered bushing dies and even a conventional NK sizing die, but the success I had with my 303 British LCD sold me on the idea.
It's a personal decision, but I didn't want to spend $100 on a $5 problem.
Edited to add: This is Lee's explanation for modifying a 22 Hornet collet die to 22 K-Hornet.
https://support.leeprecision.net/en/knowledgebase/article/22-k-hornet-collet-die-set-adjustment![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/UdjiCgP.jpg)
---
One other photo thing. The picture isn't too clear, but this is a Lee 22 Hornet seater plug. I will be the first to admit that Lee's seater isn't the best. This mod is easy to do, even if you are ham fisted.
Traditional Hornet bullets are semi-pointed, but most will agree that the 40 gr polymer tipped bullets are the bee knees in a Hornet.
A problem I had with an older set of Lee 22 Hornet dies occurred when I attempted to seat the 40 gr Hornady VMax. The bullet tip pressed against the inside of the die. You want the seater plug to press on or around the ogive, not the bullet tip. You can increase the seater plug depth so that the bullet tip does not come into contact with the inside end. I used a 1/8 inch drill bit.
You simply drill into the centre of the seater. Don't nick the collar of the plug. The actual depth is not critical. Just make sure that the bullet does not come into contact with the plug.
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/YjKkNYB.jpg)
...
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/pBkwxSz.jpg)
instead of trying this weird resizing ideals if wanna a more tighten neck buy a Redding full length bushing die and some different right sized bushing for this Redding die. if this is just a regular hunting rifle really just use the RCBS full length sizing die correctly and that is all you need to do with die resizing wax. i have a few 7mm-08`s i have always used Redding dies including Redding bushing dies. > ask Big Stick some questions about the 7mm-08 resizing dies you will get educated. good luck,Pete53 > p.s. don`t forget you generally get what you pay for = there is a huge difference in prices and dies and it does make a difference.
The beauty of the Lee Collet system is the cost factor. For nominal cost one can make ammo about as concentric as a near $300 competition die set with neck sizing bushings, no need for an expander.
With those dies the sizer sizes the case body, the neck sizing bushing can be changed to get the perfect neck sizing without needing an expander.
The seaters are precise with micrometers. Now, as noted earlier, I’m not overly impressed with Lee seaters. They’re hit and miss. With some rounds I use a better seater, some with floating bullet guides.
And I do check concentricity with a Sinclair, correct run out with a TruAngle tool.
DF
Here's a .22-250 Lee FL sizer being turned into a body die. Grind away until you're sure the die neck clears the case neck. The result is a cheap body die which works about as well as an expensive body die, 'cause it's now a real body die.
One thing, that steel is very hard and takes some grinding. I like to use a nearly worn out carbide tip as it'll fit in the neck.
And, that's why I like the Lee Deluxe die set which has the LCD and a FL sizer. To me, the Lee FL sizer's best use could be what you see, a converted body die. It works pretty well in that application.
The decapping assembly makes a nice punch. I remove the retaining nut although you don't have to. I don't waste anything.
TruAngle tool mounted on a board with a "T" nut is real handy. Can be stored when not in use.
DF
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/R7kXIbC.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/eBlm2Os.jpg)
Great idea DF. Good stuff.
Great idea DF. Good stuff.
Ya gotta make do with what ya got.
DF
It seems like Lee could skip the FL die and put in a body die instead.
It seems like Lee could skip the FL die and put in a body die instead.
That would be about perfect.
But the market gurus may not agree. Takes somewhat of a Loony to know what we’re talking about.
They have to appeal to the biggest customer base. It’s not that hard to retrofit a FL die.
DF
A single Redding body die is almost as expensive as a Deluxe Lee die set, $10 or less difference if you shop around.
So, their included FL Lee sizer converted into a body die makes dollars and sense.
And if converted properly with enough neck material removed so there's a visible gap between the die neck and case neck, it works as well as the Redding body die.
I've tried it both ways and can't tell a difference, as they do the exact same thing.
So, if you're not using the Lee FL die anyway, you've just made yourself essentially a free body die.
The price is definitely right requiring minimal effort and time. A win win scenario.
DF
It seems like Lee could skip the FL die and put in a body die instead.
That would be about perfect.
But the market gurus may not agree. Takes somewhat of a Loony to know what we’re talking about.
They have to appeal to the biggest customer base. It’s not that hard to retrofit a FL die.
DF
I hear you, but it seems to me if the "typical" user understands to use the FL die if his collet sized brass starts getting a bit tight, then it shouldn't be too much of a leap to get the body die concept.
It seems like Lee could skip the FL die and put in a body die instead.
That would be about perfect.
But the market gurus may not agree. Takes somewhat of a Loony to know what we’re talking about.
They have to appeal to the biggest customer base. It’s not that hard to retrofit a FL die.
DF
I hear you, but it seems to me if the "typical" user understands to use the FL die if his collet sized brass starts getting a bit tight, then it shouldn't be too much of a leap to get the body die concept.
If you and I send them that suggestion don’t ya know they’ll come around.
Sure!
Ha!
DF
Of course they will.
DF, why don't you or mathman come up with a Lee collet die for the 6.5 PRC for me.
My old 243 dies reduce the case and the neck more than I like. They are not marked small base but they should be. Always get a bit of runout and the case grows about .010 on the trip through the die. If I use a 308 die for the body and a collet die on the neck I get very straight ammo. My 308 die reduces the case about .002 at the base expansion ring. The 243 die is double that. Plus it makes the neck .010 below loaded size. YMMV.
DF, why don't you or mathman come up with a Lee collet die for the 6.5 PRC for me.
We’ll add that request to our letter.
Well tell’em it’s for you.
That’ll seal the deal.
DF
DF, why don't you or mathman come up with a Lee collet die for the 6.5 PRC for me.
We’ll add that request to our letter.
Well tell’em it’s for you.
That’ll seal the deal.
DF
Can yinz guys aks (axe?) if they'll start making PFLR dies too?
They won't do partial full. Only full and fully full are options.
Lee is showing their custom collet die page again. They must be back in the custom die business. If you have a cartridge for which they do not make a collet die, you can get one made.
https://leeprecision.com/custom-collet-necksizing-die-set---
Lee can adjust a 22 Hornet collet die to the K configuration for $30. I do not know what they do, but I suspect it involves shortening the collet. At any rate, you can go here for the Hornet to K-Hornet page.
https://support.leeprecision.net/en/knowledgebase/article/22-k-hornet-collet-die-set-adjustment
DF, why don't you or mathman come up with a Lee collet die for the 6.5 PRC for me.
We’ll add that request to our letter.
Well tell’em it’s for you.
That’ll seal the deal.
DF
Can yinz guys aks (axe?) if they'll start making PFLR dies too?
No problem.
We’ll add that to our list of particulars.
I’m sure Lee has very attentive CS people just waiting for customer input.
DF
They won't do partial full. Only full and fully full are options.
sonuva...
I did pick up a set of Redding K-Hornet dies on EBay some time ago and at way less than Redding price. I guess odd ball stuff sometimes sells cheaper.
DF