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valad Offline OP
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I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.

Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.

Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?

Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?

I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.

I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks

PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.

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You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?

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Originally Posted by valad
I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.

Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.

Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?

Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?

I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.

I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks

PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.


Look here

Collet dies are GTG......

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/RM3512.pdf


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Originally Posted by mathman
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?

This ♤

BTW it was mathman who wrote up the directions. Sounds like you are close to busting the die


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Valad, the point of Lee Collet dies is to use them instead of the FL die. Put the expander back in the RCBS and push it through the neck ( might have to use a bit of lube). Then load them and use the Lee next loading without the RCBS sizer.


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https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021/07/tips-for-using-lee-collet-dies-for-neck-sizing-brass/

The above link should help you. The very best tutorial is the one our Mathman wrote up....
Maybe you can find it or send him a pm.

You should just be using the collet die to resize, not another full sizer die...


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Agree, Mathman’s collet die instructions are superior to the Lee instructions.

Try to get his info.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Recap from old thread on collet die adjustment:


The first thing I recommend is to ignore the instructions supplied with the die.

The second thing I recommend is to ignore whether or not the press you're using cams over at the top of its stroke.

The die squeezes the neck onto a mandrel, so for a given neck thickness there is a finite limit to how much sizing you can achieve. This die will need adjustment to suit different thicknesses of brass.

Raise the press ram to the top of its stroke. Thread the die into the press until the bottom of the sizing collet (not the die body) just touches the shell holder. Measure the neck OD of a piece of brass.

Run the brass through the die using a full press stroke. It should take no effort since if you're set up as described the die has done no sizing. Turn the die into the press about 1/4 turn. Run the brass in again. You probably won't feel much sizing going on, but give the neck a measurement just to see. If it's still nothing, screw the die in another 1/4th and try again. You'll may start feeling a bit going on as you work the press handle, and if so you'll be able to measure a little sizing taking place.

Rinse and repeat using 1/16th turn in increments for the die. You'll feel increases in the force required for the sizing stroke. Since you're measuring the neck after each pass you'll eventually find two increments where the neck didn't get any smaller. NOW STOP TURNING THE DIE INTO THE PRESS. Remember you're squeezing the brass against a solid steel mandrel which isn't going to give, so even if the press stroke didn't feel like it took very much force the neck is as small as it's going to get.

There's a learning curve to the die, but it isn't hard.

I like to run cases through the die twice, spinning the case about 1/3 turn (rather than the 1/2 turn in the instructions) between passes. This means the parts of the neck that were under the splits in the collet fingers on the first pass will get hit on the second pass.



Correctly executing the set up method I outlined above makes camming over or not a moot point, and it will not even come close to popping the cap. Furthermore since the full press stroke is used every time I don't have to "judge my lean" on the handle.

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The above link is good info. I polish my mandrel slightly in the area that the collet clamps down on only so the neck is slightly expanded when case is extracted. This makes up for slight differences in springback due to variation in annealing.


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Thanks.

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mathman’s instructions for the LCD are excellent.

But…you have already sized the neck of the brass
down to a smaller diameter with the FL die. LCD dies do not like to expand a neck that has already been sized. The LCD works best if the neck has not been sized.


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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by mathman
Recap from old thread on collet die adjustment:


The first thing I recommend is to ignore the instructions supplied with the die.

The second thing I recommend is to ignore whether or not the press you're using cams over at the top of its stroke.

The die squeezes the neck onto a mandrel, so for a given neck thickness there is a finite limit to how much sizing you can achieve. This die will need adjustment to suit different thicknesses of brass.

Raise the press ram to the top of its stroke. Thread the die into the press until the bottom of the sizing collet (not the die body) just touches the shell holder. Measure the neck OD of a piece of brass.

Run the brass through the die using a full press stroke. It should take no effort since if you're set up as described the die has done no sizing. Turn the die into the press about 1/4 turn. Run the brass in again. You probably won't feel much sizing going on, but give the neck a measurement just to see. If it's still nothing, screw the die in another 1/4th and try again. You'll may start feeling a bit going on as you work the press handle, and if so you'll be able to measure a little sizing taking place.

Rinse and repeat using 1/16th turn in increments for the die. You'll feel increases in the force required for the sizing stroke. Since you're measuring the neck after each pass you'll eventually find two increments where the neck didn't get any smaller. NOW STOP TURNING THE DIE INTO THE PRESS. Remember you're squeezing the brass against a solid steel mandrel which isn't going to give, so even if the press stroke didn't feel like it took very much force the neck is as small as it's going to get.

There's a learning curve to the die, but it isn't hard.

I like to run cases through the die twice, spinning the case about 1/3 turn (rather than the 1/2 turn in the instructions) between passes. This means the parts of the neck that were under the splits in the collet fingers on the first pass will get hit on the second pass.



Correctly executing the set up method I outlined above makes camming over or not a moot point, and it will not even come close to popping the cap. Furthermore since the full press stroke is used every time I don't have to "judge my lean" on the handle.

Like......


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valad Offline OP
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Originally Posted by mathman
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?

mathman,

Previously I sized brass and had runout of something like 4 thousands, maybe 5 thousands. This makes me think its the die itself that is causing the runout.
From what everyone is saying if I size on the RCBS dies then sizing the necks are not needed.
But if I shot these ammo in the rifle then only neck sizing is needed.
I resize the brass without the mandrel. Saw an article by John Barsness that he put the mandrel back in the die and did not snug down. Is this going to produce less run out?

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I will try the instruction recomend above. And yeah I have followed mathman's instructions. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by valad
Originally Posted by mathman
You've already sized the brass with the RCBS die. So why are you trying now to use the collet die on the neck?

mathman,

Previously I sized brass and had runout of something like 4 thousands, maybe 5 thousands. This makes me think its the die itself that is causing the runout.
From what everyone is saying if I size on the RCBS dies then sizing the necks are not needed.
But if I shot these ammo in the rifle then only neck sizing is needed.
I resize the brass without the mandrel. Saw an article by John Barsness that he put the mandrel back in the die and did not snug down. Is this going to produce less run out?
A properly set up FL die cannot produce runout.
That statement is probably going to set some people off so let me explain.
A FL die is made by rotating a blank die body in a lathe chuck while feeding in a precision ground reamer which is held in a floating reamer holder. Even if the original hole in the blank die body is out of round or not on center (highly unlikely because all internal operations are done in the same set up) the floating reamer holder will allow for any slop in the lathe.
Where a FL die CAN produce neck runout is when the sizing mandrel is pulled out of the neck which is why Mule Deer suggests removing the stem (or I use a stem from a smaller caliber such as a 270 stem in a 30-06 die to do the decapping) then pushing the correct size mandrel INTO the case in a separate operation.
A lot of induced runout can also be minimized by leaving the stem a little loose and only snugging up the lock nut at the top of the press stroke when the decap pin is in the primer hole which will insure that the decap stem is centered.


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Originally Posted by tikkanut
Originally Posted by valad
I got a box of Winchester 7/08 and shot it up when I went out of town.
I just cleaned them and resize the brass with my RCBS dies and removed the stem.

Now I am trying to use the Lee Collet on the neck. Per "winters" instructions you should do it step by step until you see between two points there are no change and then stop.

Since its pressing the neck against the mandrel it may be very hard to see. But to me I do not see any change and now I am pressing the handle hard? I feel I am probably doing this wrong.
What should I be looking for/at?

Ideally how tight should the neck be for a 7/08 bullet?

I am just learning this now to see how it works. Although not sure if I really need it lol.

I will be leaving out of town tmw morning so access to a computer may be sporadic to reply back. Thanks

PS: this guy I think he is brwinters wrote up instructions to use the Lee collet die and to forget the instructions that come with it.


Look here

Collet dies are GTG......

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/RM3512.pdf

This....

IIRC Lee collet dies must be screwed into the press far enough so that the press handle mechanism does not cam over. If this is not set up properly then it is possible to either jam the collet itself or bugger the cap on the top of the collet die. If the former the dies must be disassembled to loosen the collet, if the latter occurs a replacement cap is required.

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Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.

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It's good practice to apply a bit of grease on the tapered portion of the LEE collet or sleeve.

This is a metal on metal wear area where lube is a benefit.

I do this for my dies.


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Originally Posted by mathman
Scroll up a few posts. If a person understands how the die works and isn't ham fisted then cam over or not is irrelevant.
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.

Then you learn. They have more aluminum caps for a nominal fee. BTW, in a bind, you can sub an aluminum cap from another die. They interchange. Don’t ask…..

That’s why I recommend Mathman’s instructions. Saves on aluminum caps.

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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Yeah, ham fisted big press cam over power can blow the aluminum cap right out of the steel die. Don’t ask how I know.

With any reloading operation, finesse is the thing. smile. You have to “sneak up” on the correct neck diameter.

I have no idea what mathman suggests, but the resistance must be negligible on the up stroke at the start of your adjustments, when the first case goes into the die. Resistance gradually increases as the die/cap is adjusted down. Checking the fit (inside case neck diameter) with each turn. The downward adjustment must be done in small increments or you can damage the aluminum cap.

It takes about a minute or so to adjust the die. I have used the Lee collet with five different presses, including a Rock Chucker. Cam over isn’t a problem as long as the die/cap is adjusted down in small increments.


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