Have seen several mentions of Dyna Bore Coat, especially from MD. Any comments, likes/dislikes?

It works. I put it in every barrel that comes into my possession before they ever see a bullet.

Likes:

- extended cleaning intervals (most of my barrels go hundreds of rounds before accuracy falls off)
- easy cleaning, usually around 6-10 patches and it's totally clean, even after shooting hundreds of rounds between cleanings
- corrosion protection for the bore
- hypothetical (unless experimentation has confirmed it?) erosion protection on the throat, provided by the ceramic coating between the flame front and the steel
- the coating, once applied, is permanent and lasts the life of the barrel

Dislikes:

- Nothing major, but cleaning down to bare steel and applying DBC takes about 30 minutes of work, per barrel. Luckily you only have to do this once per barrel

I like the stuff so much that I usually bring a whole bunch of it across the border with me, so I can provide it to my fellow Canadian shooters who may want to get their hands on some.

+1

After applying Dyna Bore Coat, all you need is Wipe Out and about 4 or 5 patches...

Ditto � I love it.

The initial cleaning before application isn�t too bad if you use a good copper solvent, some JB bore compound and elbow grease. But better to over-do that step than slack on it since it will pay off in better results.

It may take a few firing/cleaning sessions to show the full effect, I had one .308 barrel that fouled horribly. It took about 5 cycles of shooting maybe 50-60 rounds through it, then cleaning it thoroughly before it finally started to show a real decrease in fouling.

But the other barrels coated with it showed a marked reduction in copper fouling fairly quickly and they clean up really easily.

Do you have to use JB Bore paste even if the barrel is new?

Do you think using Hoppes #9, CR-10, then using the Foul Out III system (electrochemical) to prepare a new bore is acceptable?

Yes, JB or another non-embedding abrasive paste is an important step in removing residual impurities in any barrel, new or used. The instructions with the package and on the website are somewhat confusing and contradictory. JB's (Mule Deer) instructions were much more helpful.

You gotta get the barrel squeaky clean for best results. They have alcohol as a cleaner with the kit.

I like the product. It seems to cut down on copper fouling and guns clean quickly.

A .240 Wby that I bought used, had some carbon build up ahead of the chamber. Probably hadn't been properly broken in. I cleaned it to bare metal with solvents and JB Bore cleaner, then did the Dyna Bore Coat treatment. Copper cleans with a swipe or two with a patch and Boretech Eliminator. Carbon still shows some build up and occasionally needs JB scrubbing for a few inches ahead of the chamber. That just may be an ongoing issue with this gun. My other rifles so treated clean stem to stern without a hitch.

I wouldn't even know about the carbon if I didn't use a Hawkeye Borescope.

DF

Yeah, a borescope tends to introduce some reality into barrel cleaning.

Dan Lilja recommends not getting ALL the carbon out of the barrel, claiming it (like DBC) tends to fill in the minor imperfections.

Since the introduction of the clear DBC I've experienced even better results, but have heard some people have tried to install it with a bronze bore-brush, probably after not getting the bore clean and greaseless. Not surprisingly, that didn't work!

My only complaint so far is I have 3 rifles I have been doing load development on, 2 blue and one stainless factory rem, and all 3 after 3 shoot/ clean sessions show the following:


Using Cu+2 the first patch comes out black like cleaning a black powder gun, and in 3 patches I see blue. It usually takes a dozen loose patches of CU+2 before all blue is gone, applied and let set 30 or more minutes before reapplication. I may try a tighter patch next cleaning session to see if it reduces patch use, but so far I have not seen the benefit of UBC. These were all using the newer clear solution in the aluminum bottles.

I have tried Sweets between CU to see if it sped up the process, to no avail. I am using a nylon holder (pull string and pierced patch)to avoid false indications from brass rod parts.


Allen

I've got a 30-378 I applied it to after I broke the barrel in. Not that it needed that much breaking in; it's a cut-rifled Krieger. Now I can run through 20 rounds (I reload) and cleaning is simply a breeze. I don't need a brush, just a jag and some chemical bore cleaner. It's a matter of 5 to 10 minutes from a mainly powder fouled barrel to a squeeky clean barrel. I can't really say if I'm getting copper, or if the bronze jag is giving me a false positive.

Sometimes it takes a few cleaning/shooting cycles before the DBC really starts to show its benefits. I'm betting things start to clean up better after you shoot it some more and clean it a couple more times.

I use both gun cote and bore coat on all of my guns....stainless or blue. These products really do work IF, IF you follow the directions to use. Must be CLEAN, no CLEANER then apply and it will work. YMMV

The schit is like magic.

Very good product. All my custom rifles get the treatment.

I used the older stuff on a couple of barrels and a muzzleloader with good results. Recently I used the clear version kit that includes the exterior coating on a new muzzleloader barrel. That version was like I had used nothing at all. Rust formed all over and some pitting in the bore. Still a pain to clean. Maybe I didn't put it on correctly, may try recoating, but I don't know if the new stuff is as good.

It is. The steel has to be completely clean and degreased for the coatings to work properly.

I started using it because Sean recommended it so highly (and he is as big a skeptic as anyone I know). I tried it on a couple of flintlocks. Worked so well that I started using it on my competition 1911. Then on other rifles and etc, etc...

That stuff should come in gallon jugs...



Johnny $

Any experience with handguns that only shoot cast bullets?

It works there too, and in shotgun barrels.

I just had another talk with Doug Burche the other day. Apparently a few people just don't read the directions, or figure they know better than the people who actually make DBC. A couple of people have apparently tried to install it in the bore with a bronze bore brush. Didn't work.

OK. I'll give it a try in a stainless Ruger 45 Colt Bisley that is rough with lead even though the throats have been reamed to the bullets I shoot and the barrel slugged indicating no barrel constriction at the frame. If it doesn't work the 41 bullets will be shipped one at a time.

Thanks

Yes, I suspect it will come around, I know there was enough DBC applied, I have never seen such a black first/ second patch before applying the solution so I know it is "doing something" different than a non treated bore...lol. I took my sweet time making sure the bore was clean, and always saw extra solution come out on the 2 x Breach to muzzle pull throughs. It is interesting how the solution is clear, but the litle slop on the bottle's threads have some gritty residue of I suspect the Ceramic powder when the bottle was re-opened several weeks after one of the applications, so the solution has the powder in it.


I can't wait to get to the "fully cured" stage.


Allen

The one I had trouble with was a new unshot muzzleloader barrel that I went through the same steps, the one Mule Deer wrote, as my previous barrel. It just didnt' seem to do anything with the muzzleloader barrel.

I had a custom barrel worked over for my turkey shotgun that I wanted DBC in. Not feeling quite up to applying DBC to a 30" ten gauge barrel, I sent it to Doug. I got it back went to the range and "cured" the coating and pulled the barrel off to check the bore - it was almost pristine! I have yet to clean the bore through 3 seasons and it still looks like it was just cleaned.

DBC is for real.

I recently did two non SS in-line muzzle loaders and am convinced on the bore coat end. you can certainly tell the difference on the crud ring end. Did the breech plug as well and that wipes off with a cotton cloth in 30 seconds, threads, recesses, and all.
The exterior coating concerns me a bit as like you say, you can't even tell you applied it. I haven't given that muzzle loader enough of a field test to tell if it will resist rust. Find it hard to believe it could work as well as weather shield or cerakote but time will tell.

I've not used DBC, but then again I've never cleaned a shotgun barrel either...

Can someone point me to the thread with Mule Deer's instructions on DBC others have referenced? I did a search but couldn't find them.

I'm a barrel cleaning freak; I'm certain I've cleaned barrels that didn't need to be cleaned. The answer for me is DBC. ALL of my barrels have been treated with DBC. However, compared to most shooters on here, I don't own an extensive firearm collection. I have a few nice rifles in 6.5x55, .308 and one in 30-378. I think someone mentioned this earlier; I treat my handgun barrels too.

Here's the instruction from the website per JB

Instructions

I have done 4 barrels ith it. The old stuff. Have some of the new formula, but haven't tried it yet. I like the stuff. It works.

I also reported a slight increase in velocity. They said military testing has now proven a slight increase also. So I wasn't dreaming. Not much, maybe 2-3%......

It works well! I use a couple of wet patches with a 50/50 mixture of Kroil & Shooter's Choice. The Wipe-Out and it's done. Dyna Shield works very well too! Great product. Bought my stuff from Jordan Smith in Calgary...he's just as good to deal with as the product he market's.

Anyone have a link to JB's application instructions for Dyna Bore Coat?

Here, about midway down the page.

http://www.dyna-tek.com/Bore-Coat-Article-s/1839.htm

Thanks!

How long have you been using the Gun Shield? I got mine from JS too, and used it on a .243 and a shotgun. The .243 gets a lot of winter use and so far I haven't wiped it down after bringing it in from the cold, so far so good. The shotgun gets carried lots and shot very little during bow season, lots of moisture and abuse,so we'll see how it does.

Cleaning a Barrel to Bare Steel

(Safety glasses and disposable gloves recommended)

The proper installation of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat involves first cleaning the bore down to bare, dry steel. Otherwise the coating won�t be sticking to the steel, but to the powder, lead or copper fouling.

1. Ensure firearm is unloaded and free of any ammunition

2. Clean out all loose powder fouling using a cleaning solvent and clean patch. Soak patch with solvent and push through bore and pull back 6 to 8 times. Change patch and repeat this 6 to 8 times or until patch comes out clear of any powder fouling.

3. Using a clean or new (this is critical) correctly sized brass bore brush, wrap it with a clean, thick cotton patch and liberally soak with JB Bore Cleaner. This has a fine abrasive that will remove fouling but not affect the base metal.

4. Run this brush/patch combination back and forth inside the barrel 30 times reapplying fresh JB to the patch every 10 strokes. The brush/patch must fit the barrel tight and should take considerable force to move it and to insure the cleaning compound is working. If it is at all loose, wrap another patch around the brush and reload it with fresh JB and continue.

5. Clean the bore again with a cleaning solvent and several patches to remove the abrasive bore cleaner.

6. Use a chemical copper solvent to remove any remaining trace amounts of copper fouling, following the manufacturer�s instructions. Normally this requires 3 cycles to complete.

7. Degrease the bore with 3-6 patches and either denatured alcohol or acetone and allow to dry.

8. The bore is now completely clean to bare metal and ready for the application of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat.

We would like to thank John Barsness for the excellent bore cleaning instructions detailed above.

I think it's bullschitt of the highest order!!

Tag

It works.

Hey, you are getting old. LOL. But you fly planes instead of riding horses... LOL

LOTS of folks out there have used this and its got some benefits and no negatives...

Do you need to use it? No. But it sure hasn't done any harm and it keeps fouling down and helps protect my bore when hunting in wet weather... Really no negatives there.

The Lone Ranter in the corner trying to convince Tanto everyone else is wrong, but not saying why...

I've had a bottle dry up and they replaced it only to dry up again. I read somewhere they changed the formula and it wasn't as good until they reformulated it. Said that if your DBC patches don't dry up and harden you have the crappy stuff. Anyone heard this? The best results I've had have been from the first bottle on a very bad fouling gun.

I'd bet the problem was the bottles they used for a while, which were the problem, not the formula.

I've been using DBC since the stuff was gray instead of clear, but it's always worked very well if applied correctly.

Yup. The plastic bottles allowed the product to dry out over time. The move to metal containers has solved that problem. I've never come across a batch that didn't work correctly.

You are probably right. I've been applying it to every gun I get and haven't had any fouling problems. It has helped all the ones that were problems without it.

Does a plastic sabot in a muzzleloader or shotgun slug barrel do the tight job to “set” the DBC? I’m assuming the friction snd heat if firing work together to “set” whatever compound is in the DBC.

Yep and store in the fridge.

DF

The main source of the heat is powder gas.

Want to add, it seems to me DBC “failures” are a function of barrel prep, or lack thereof. The Hawkeye really helps in that regard. Clean patches by themselves may not tell the whole story.

Bore has to be clean down to the raw steel for an optimal result. Then, after DBC, no brushes or abrasives. Just a good soaking with a cleaner. My current fav is Patch Out, but have used others, such as Eliminator. A cleaner and patch are all you’ll need if it’s done right.

DF

My only complaints are it is expensive and I have found no place in Alaska to buy it. So, I had to get some assistance to get my hands on some. I also like their Gun Shield for use on my guns metal, both inside and out and on magazines and the inside of magazine tubes on my lever guns. I wonder if it is the same stuff. My guns do seem easier to clean with their product application.

Also, my experience with them on the phone and with e-mails has not been pleasant and after two years and being told they would call me back, I am still waiting for a couple of questions to be answered and assistance with getting my hands on their product. I think they forgot about me.....

Why don't you just order it from Midway?

Dyna-Tek Bore Coat

Most wont ship to Alaska

Yep, been looking myself.

Haz mat fee of $50 or more - has to come ground, i.e. - truck to Seattle, barge to Alaska. 3-5 weeks. One would think Cabelas or Sportsman's Warehouse would carry it up here, but no.

That's unfortunate, as DBC does provide some extra protection against rust, along with reducing fouling and making bore cleaning far easier.

MD et al,


Would you recommend DBC for a new rimfire (22 LR)? (posted in Rimfires but no love)

I did almost every center fire rifles after I tried it on a couple of prairie dog rifles since I was very impressed. I may have done all, IDK.
I also did my muzzle loaders. I didn’t do my shotguns - yet. I think I probably should do a couple of my revolvers and as of yet have not.
Some rifles had a dramatic improvement, one I particular needed two applications but after the second the barrel was amazingly easy to clean. It was not so before I DBC’d the barrel.

No barrel was worse after the treatment, maybe a couple that were pretty good before the treatment didn’t improve as much - little room for improvement. But a few were so much better afterwards.

I’ve bought and sold some rifles since then and now I’ll treat the barrel on a new one to me if I think it needs it.

In my opinion, less copper, less carbon build up, longer times between needed cleaning and much easier to clean.

I have wondered about coating the outside metal parts for rust protection.

Bugger,

The same company makes a product named Dyna Tek Gun Shield. You degrease and warm up the outside metal of the firearms, then apply a thin coating and let it dry. It's invisible--blued guns look exactly the same as before--but protects from rust for at least a couple years before needing to be reapplied. It also results in slicker moving parts.

I’ll be buying and trying that.

I might have missed this but what procedure for an AR? Does the gas system present a problem? And is a .22 groove difficult to apply the liquid? tia

Best procedure for an AR is to put on a chrome lined barrel

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/13400949/1

I looked in the barrel with my Teslong to monitor the gas ports while cleaning and treating...otherwise nothing special in my single experience with my AR.

I installed DBC in my Bushmaster carbine's chrome-lined barrel when it was new in 2007, without shooting it beforehand. Have cleaned it once since, after around 250 rounds, even though accuracy was still fine. Haven't cleaned it since, and it's still accurate.

Appreciate the tips and info. Have a barrel not yet used. Was going to run a few hundred pushes of lapping compound thru it anyway. “Unfired”’seems like the best time to apply.

I have had positive results in everything from unfired barrels to ancient, pitted barrels.

My gunsmith who has built several custom rifles for me laps every new barrel with JB bore compound. Every one he has built has been a 1/2 MOA shooter.

I've used DBC in several AR-15's. I didn't do anything special when applying it. These are rifles that get shot a lot in competition, and it does help to prevent a good deal of the copper fouling. However, it doesn't eliminate copper completely and I do clean periodically to remove the copper.

About how long does it last or should it last?

IME, the lifetime of the barrel.

It sure works on some of those old pitted barrels.My 1906 38-55 shoots about a 3" group at100 now when previously I had a hard time doing 6" at 50

Have one of those too. .50 Optima V2 muzzleloader. Was glad to see some comments on that. Still shoots minute of deer at the 50 or 60 yard shots we try to get but it’s time to stop the bleeding at least.

This stuff sounds good where in Canada can we get it and how much?
Never seen it or heard of it before Mule Deer

John,

Would Tec Gun Shield applied to automatic shotgun magazine tubes help cleaning the carbon off the tubes....ie Remington 1100 etc?

I have never tried it for that, but would guess it might help.

Unfortunately, I’m not aware of any place to buy it in Canada, these days.

So once the bore coat is applied to the bore it lasts forever? Nothing would remove it?

Correct. According to research it cures to a hardness of 7-9 mhos depending on what it’s applied to it can be harder. At 7-9 mhos it’s as hard as quartz, topaz and conundrum. Only thing harder is diamond.

I have just used the DTBC in a Tikka T3 338WM which is the worst copper fouling rifle that I have ever had.
Cleaned the barrel 3 times with Wipe Out foam plus the Wipe Out Accelarator to get down to bare metal as I could see with my Teslong Bore scope. I then put the DTBC in the barrel last Friday and let it stand muzzle down for 3 days. Just got through firing 9 rounds through it to “cure” the DTBC as per the instructions.
I cleaned the barrel with Shooter’s Choice soaked patches only and still have copper fouling in the barrel although not as bad as previously.
(Before using the DTBC, I could see copper build up on the riflings with a very defined edge around the copper with my Teslong bore scope, IOW the copper fouling was BAD!)
Now it a relatively smoothed out line of copper coloring down the rifling near the muzzle. Left the barrel wet with the Shooters Choice and there was a lot of blue on the patches still. Checked it with the bore scope and there is still copper.
So, what next?
One of the posters here mentioned he uses Patch Out. Should I try Patch out or even Wipe Out? Will any of this remove the DTBC as well as the copper??
Also what about Kroil? Would it get under the DTBC and possibly remove it?
Obviously I don’t want to do that…….

I think John recommend using acetone as the last procedure to remove any oils or other contamination from the bore

Ok if I left some Wipe Out residue in the barrel, what do I do now?
Do I try to remove whatever DTBC is left in the barrel to re-apply, and if so, how do I go about that?

As far as I know, there isn't a solvent made that will remove DBC. I generally use Montana X-Treme Copper Killer after the curing shots, leaving it in the bore overnight, which generally does the trick. (There's a special corner in my basement for using the stuff...)

As has been mentioned in past threads on DBC, generally the bore fouls during the initial curing shots, but after cleaning that fouling out, the bore generally becomes easier to clean with each successive cleaning--though sometimes a second application is necessary.

Have mentioned before that a .338 WM barrel was the one that really convinced me how well DBC worked. Within 20 rounds it fouled so much the bore was essentially copper-plated, and accuracy went to hell. If I recall correctly, I did apply DBC twice on that one--and after that the rifle would go 75-80 rounds before groups opened up slightly--and any decent copper solvent would remove what little copper was there very quickly.

Thanks John.
I don’t know if you saw my last post but I DID NOT use acetone or any type of degreaser in the barrel after the Wipe Out.
Do you think the DTBC still made it its way To the barrel?
I am at a loss here on what to do next.

The bore definitely needs to be degreased before patching-in DBC.

If you have any JB Compound I'd use it to remove the fouling, then start all over, degreasing before installing the DBC.

Ok, thanks John!

Yepper it did. As MD said no solvent will touch it even with a bronze brush. There’s a statement on the back that says permanent and they mean it.
According to their patent application the stuff is supposed to be self repairing if any spots were missed, didn’t really find that to be true.
Again as MD says you can try another application after cleaning real well and degreasing. Hopefully that will do it, if not and still not happy, live with it or rebarrel are your only options.

BTDT so statement from experience.

I have been using it since 2017
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/14315206/1

I suspect it may not be needed with anti Copper fouling powders like CFE223, Re23, IMR-4451, and IMR-4166.

But even if you use those powders and have a lifetime supply of Bore Coat, I can think of no big reason for not putting it in a new barrel.

DBC = 2 years ago i installed this in my 257 Weatherby mag. Brux barrel after it was cleaned well i have no intention of cleaning this rifle for a few years , installed it in my 257 Creedmoor after i clean this Brux barrel well have shot this rifle about 150 + times might be time to clean it ? ,put this treatment in a new 6.5 Creedmoor Brux target barrel and as i post this my new 6 B.R Brux. barrel is at the machinist`s place and this barrel will get the treatment before i use it too on my switch barrel bench rifle. i have a new T.C. muzzle loader that i have not shot yet and that will get a DBC treatment also. if i have any left my Perazzi trap shotgun will get a treatment too ! > i think in the future many shooters will be using DBC.

Instead of extolling the virtues, why not tell the man how to fix his screw up. How do I get rid of this or fix it?
Murphy’s law reigns supreme.

Cmon guys either help the guy out or treat him like pariah as you did me.
Ohh and you guys that apply without a shot fired can’t say one damn way or the other if it works or not, you gave away 50% of any usable data to support your claims that it did anything at all.
Also never seen a rifle up for sale on here or anywhere else that used DBC or Ultra bore coat as a selling point.

Swifty,

Sorry you apparently didn't read or follow the directions that I've seen included in every batch of DBC, including the most recent. Also sorry that you're apparently the only person who so far hasn't experienced what every other shooter who's used the product experienced.

Did you read the directions that normally come with DBC? Or were they missing?

DBC installation has been discussed a LOT on the Campfire for around 15 years now.

You'd be best off putting a sock in it and not continuing to prove what a stupidasss move you made.

Well holy sheep dip, after asking questions on here I followed manufacturers directions which haven’t been supported for almost 3 years.





That’s the damn instructions you get. Web site for more info defunct. No mention of acetone no mention of diddly sh*t.
What fugging directions?

Very interesting!

Dunno what happened--or if it matters.

I always totally degreased every bore before installing, with either rubbing alcohol or acetone--and believe I included that in my instructions, which they used for years.

My instructions with the DTBC did NOT say to use a degreaser. I guess my instructions were from an older batch which I purchased in 2020.
There are no instructions for the Dyna-Tek Gun Shield as there are on Swifty52’s, only for Dyna-Tek Bore Coat.
My instructions merely said to clean to “bare” metal then apply DTBC using 2”-4” strokes. Then it says to “pull back to the chamber in a single stroke. Repeat this process three times, leaving a very thin coat”. It also said to “gently shake the Bore Coat container to mix”.
I admit that I forgot that Wipe Out leaves a thin film of lubricant for bore protection as stated on the can.

Until just within the past few months, I haven’t spent the majority of my time on this forum like most everyone else.
The instructions also DID NOT SAY refer to 24 Hour Campfire’s “Ask the Gunwriters” forum for further instructions.

JG, not sure who your post was directed at, but, if it was directed at me, there was not any instructions that a degreaser was needed.
Maybe “you” need to put a sock in it!!!

Sorry to hear the directions have left out the degreasing step. Maybe they concluded it wasn't necessary.

But I always did it from when I first started experimenting with DBC around 2006--and wrote it into the instructions I wrote for installing it a couple years later.

Did that, did notice in your previous posts stating you used a chambered case and fed the patch through the muzzle to catch the excess. This was not addressed in my instructions. Obviously.

Would be interested to hear from Jordan on this.

Do know that the company lost interest in DBC a few years ago, not because it didn't work, but because it was such a small part of their business. They still make it, but ;eave it up to Brownells and MidwayUSA to distribute. Or at least that's the last I heard.

Do you feel better now knowing that you have contributed nothing?

John, what I haven’t mentioned is that I had the same problem with the DTBC back in 2020 when I first bought the product from Midway. After communicating with you today, I figured it was my screwup back then just as it was today.
Anyway, (back in 2020)
I applied this same batch to a Krieger CM barrel in a 270 Win. Which is the second most copper fouling barrel that I have ever owned. I cleaned the barrel the same way until there was NO fouling what so ever in the barrel.
Checked it with Teslong to verify.
Followed this same instruction card and not even thinking about the lube left by Wipe Out, applied it the same way and cured it the same as per instructions. After firing 10 shots I cleaned the barrel and the result was the same as today, there was Copper fouling that took a “thorough cleaning to remove”, i.e. Wipe Out left over night. None of my other solvents would come close to touching it.
I called the Dyna-Tek phone number on the instruction card ( the day before July 4th) and talked to a someone there who talked like an engineer. It might have the owner for all I know. Told him what I did and the results I had.
At first he suggested that I didn’t let it cure long enough. I told him that I let the barrel sit for 6 hours. He then said that he thought that I may have had an old or even bad batch of the product. He took my name and address and said that he would send me another container of DTBC at no charge.
After almost 2 years, I am still waiting for that bottle to arrive.
Now, I do believe the product works AND it was more than likely my fault since I did not degrease the barrel, it makes sense.
But, the instructions do not say anything about degreasing nor did the gentleman I spoke with in 2020.
I do want to install it in a couple of my other lesser fouling barrels.
I just need some good honest guidance here on what to do after the fact.

What it sounds like to me, from what you describe, is the standard "somewhat" fouling found after the first curing shots. As I already said, would use a better decoppering solvent to get rid of the copper you describe (which doesn't sound like much) before shooting the rifle again. My guess (based on 15 years of experience with DBC) is that the bore will then foul even less, and that trend will continue the more you shoot the rifle.

Instruction in photo above on DBC package say in bold: BARE STEEL.

This instruction implies BARE STEEL. IMO a reasonable user would understand this means a clean bore surface void of any contaminants.

I do use DBC and it does make cleaning of my rifles faster. Good product.

For a barrel that I treated in 2017 as I recall, several months ago I decided to to apply a second coat of DBC for no other reason than I wanted too.

I prepared that bore as I have with other bores using a good patch/brush with JB paste embedded in patch. Hoppes 9, Sweets, and CR10 to ensure bore was clean of any and all fouling.

Then a final cleaning 3 times using denatured alcohol. This was concluded with a dozen or so dry patches to ensure all the denatured alcohol was wiped out ensuring I had a dry clean bore. I believe that acetone would be great, rubbing alcohol too but be aware that rubbing alcohol has water in it. Be sure to use plenty of dry patches to ensure bore is dry.

I mounted the rifle in a vise with muzzle straight down. I applied the DBC using a bore mop extended past muzzle from chamber end. I hold bottle of DBC and dip bore mop into bottle, set bottle on rag below bbl muzzle. I draw bore mop toward chamber where mop is just visible into chamber neck. I use short stroking motions as mop is drawn towards chamber, then same as mop is pushed back out of muzzle. I repeat this 2 additional times.

I'll clean mop in denatured alcohol after DBC is applied to bbl bore. Paper towels and dispose of the contaminated denatured alcohol.

For those here who question if their application of DBC needs a reapplication, you could use the method I described above.

Thanks John, I will stay the course.
What is concerning to me is that this level of fouling is occurring after only 9 shots over the bore coat.
Their own instructions say it shouldn’t take more than 10 patches of solvent to clean. I know for a fact that I used over 30 and didn’t make a dent in the copper fouling.
Anyway, thanks again.

Following what JB said just above my post, I note that my bbls still get some copper fouling in them. Probably will never go away completely.

But my copper and powder fouling cleanouts are much faster than prior to DBC. Christ, I used to spend a good day getting all the fouling out of bbls.

With the DBC bbls it's now 12-18 patches using the Hoppes9, Sweets, and cr10 as described above. I aways finish cleaning with a wet Hoppes9 patch as I feel this helps to remove anything left behind from the CR10.

Then a couple dry patches, light oil on chamber, gun goes in locker. I always swab chamber before next shoot.

More on the clean up process please... "wipe excess liquid from the end of the bore & chamber"... With what?... A dry patch or paper towel, Or lightly wetted with a solvent like isopropyl alcohol (most contain water), acetone or hoppes #9 ect... And then "stand firearm upright, muzzle down on an absorbent towel, and allow it to dry for four [4] hours minimum"... Isn't that stuff going to dry on the muzzle crown also?... will it stain the bluing?... How do i remove it (if necessary) without screwing up the bluing?... Any issues cleaning my bore guide & coated cleaning rod?... Thank's in advance for any input on this!...

Loco, I dabbed the muzzle with a paper towel. No DBC staining I noted.

Since I use a coated cleaning rod for .17 cal rifles I use no bore guide as gun is vertical in vise and push dry mop down bore out muzzle before dipping mop in DBC.

When done with application of DBC I remove mop from rod, withdraw rod from bbl.

I wipe the coated rod with denatured alcohol on paper towel to clean.

That's my understanding, as well. A couple of years ago I tried to contact the creator of DBC, Doug Burche, without success. I wondered if he had sold the product or business to new owners. Doug was always very responsive to communication attempts, so after reading about Swifty's experience I assumed that my inkling about Doug selling may have been correct. I still don't know the whole story, but my current understanding about the state of the company is as you described, John.

Thank's TooDogs; Looks like us SE Wi guys are some thorough SOB's... lol

DBC is a silica particulate suspended in a glue-like carrier liquid. This carrier liquid seems to attract and hold significant powder and copper fouling. The cleaning after the 8-10 curing shots nearly always produces a lot more fouling than one would expect to see after 10 shots, but after that cleaning the bore fouls significantly less (less and less with each successive cleaning, in fact).

DBC is clear and easy to clean up, whether wet or dry, as long as it hasn't been cured by the heat and pressure that shooting bullets down the bore provides.

Sounds like this stuff simply fills in the low spots (voids) in the bore... Making it smoother, Which means less fouling and easier cleaning...

just read and follow the DBC easy directions with no short cuts works just fine for me on my rifles. if you have problems with DBC you did not clean your rifle barrel very well and that might create a problem?

Thanks for the info Jordan.
As said, I will stay the course.

I have stopped using anything but quality nylon brushes and no longer get "false positives" for copper on my patches or find myself chasin' the blues Oh yeah, I've been using DBC for years so count me as a happy customer.

Just fired eight DBC 'conditioners' today in my 17-223. -Al

Al,

Will be very interested in your results.

May have mentioned this before, but several years ago I bought an early Remington 700 BDL .17 Remington, which had a bore in fine shape. Partly I wanted to see if the original stories about how badly the cartridge fouled barrels were true--and in this barrel they weren't, at least with modern spherical powders that burn cleaner. The rifle would go 100+ rounds on prairie dog towns before accuracy started going. After I DBC'd it, it would go twice that long without cleaning.

John

John, when I was hunting fox hard, I had 4 different .17 Remingtons and a .17 Javelina. Barrels were Shilens (2), a PacNor and a Lilja. My first .17 Remington was a factory 700 with the sporter barrel (all they had at the time). Even with the factory barrel, I never saw any of the Urban Legend stuff with fouling and cleaning requirements. WW760 and AA2700 powders were easy on the throats for carbon.

This 17-223 is a bit of an orphan project that found it's way to me after languishing for over 25 years. It's a heavy stainless barrel (maker unknown) on an early '64 XP100 action. It came with no dies, brass or barrel markings so it's been a bit of an adventure to figure out exactly what it is. I pillar bedded it into an old 'slave' BR stock to see if the barrel has anything to show me. The barrel looks good by bore scope and my pal Randy Robinett (BIB Bullets) freshened up the crown when I was at his place a few days ago. It's either a 'long neck' 17-223 or a shortened .17 Remington...depends how you look at it.

Having had good luck with DBC in a 25-06 Savage 112J, it won't hurt to give this .17 the treatment and see what happens. Am also finishing a light 243W and DBC'd that one as well but haven't got it out yet as I'm just finishing the pillar bedding on it.

Will keep you informed of the progress.

Good shootin' -Al

Al,

Thanks for the report on the Urban Legends stuff. Which explains what I experienced even with a factory 700 barrel!

John

John, after the 8 conditioner rounds, I ran a half dozen patches with Butch's down the barrel until the powder residue cleared up, a couple of dry ones and finished with another sloppy wet one.

It's soaking now...will let you know.

Good shootin' -Al

About what I'd expected, John. Hopefully the weather will settle down in a couple weeks and I'll be able to do an extended range session and load development with it to get a better idea. Not having any history with this barrel prior to it coming to roost here, it won't be a true A-B test...we'll see what it likes.

Good shootin'. -Al

I have a Dakota 17 Fireball. DBC'd it after 200 rounds. It was pretty nasty at fouling. I cleaned it 4 times, prior to DBC treatment. Once at 50 rounds, 100rounds 150rounds, and 200 rounds. It was always a pain in the a$$ to get all the powder fouling out. Load was 20.5gr H335 with 20gr V max.

After Dynaborecoat.................I have fired a few hundred rounds. Cleaned after each 50 same as before. Literally cut the cleaning time down to a few patches. Barrel never did copper foul, but was a carbon collecting SOB. Dynabore coat works

Given that you were shooting H335 the barrel may not have been the only culprit.

[quote=mathman]Given that you were shooting H335 the barrel may not have been the only culprit.[/quote

Yep.

You can say that again 😁

Never worked for me, then again I fully concede it was probably "operator error" on my part...

Having never used H335 is it a dirty burning powder?

It is a classic powder for the 223 which is where I used it. It gave fine groups and velocity, but yes it does foul a bore compared to something like TAC.

I should have taken a pic of my 22.250 with all the carbon fouling. And all it saw was Varget and benchmark.

Those two never caked up my 223 like H335. With 55 grain bullets I'm shooting a lot of N133 these days.

H322?

H322 is an extruded powder, unlike H335 which is a spherical powder.

Traditional spherical powders ( or "Ball," Olin/Winchester's copyrighted name when they were developed in the 1930s) tend to leave a lot of powder residue. This is because the the burning rate of the tiny granules requires "coating" them with various burn-deterrent chemicals. Back when spherical powders were developed, the burn-rate of extruded powders was primarily controlled by granule size--the reason IMR4350's granules were very long and large when it was introduced in 1940, when it was the slowest-burning handloading powder.

Contrary to what some handloaded apparently believe, the burn-deterrent coatings of spherical powders are an integral part of the granules. Also, some newer sphericals feature coatings that are much cleaner burning--at least at maximum (@60,000 PSI) levels.

Some smaller-granuled extruded powders also use deterrent coatings, but in general extruded powders leave less powder fouling than most spherical powders, though there's some overlap.

DBC tends to allow both powder and copper-fouling to build up less--and be far easier to remove.

Just finished restocking this '78 vintage 243W 'rehab' project. The barrel is as-new. Less than 3 bxs of factory ammo down it when I got it from the original owner years and years ago to use as a donor action. It got JB'd and DBC'd a couple days ago. Will get it 'conditioned' this week.

Good shootin'. -Al

I had no idea just how clean VV powders were until I used N133 in my .223. 24.2 and 24.6grs behind the Sierra 55gr BTHP was its best loading. Should have just knuckled down and bought the 8lb keg I saw of it 2 years ago. None on the shelves since.

Strange....N133 has been on the shelves locally here for the past 6-8 months. I picked up an 8lb jug about 10 days ago.

I did 8 conditioning shots this morning with N140 in the 243W....just a nice light gray residue on the patches, even at 22 degrees.

Will patch out the Butch's in the morning and give it an eyeball with the bore scope.

Good shootin' -Al

I have used the DBC for many years and on many rifles. If you clean properly and then apply, then let cure and then shoot and clean well and reapply a second coat it has worked fantastic on every barrel I have used it on. That second coat really seems to kick it over the top. YMMV