I've got a number of 98s and they all shoot well after careful bedding of both the tang and front ring in a "pillar" setup. Depending on my mood at the time, I make sure the bottom metal/mag box and action are "free" of each other, no touchie, with the front post either active (close fitted) or dead (fitted loose). The loose fit has a big pillar that was fitted to the action (and lug), then bedded in a separate step before coming in from the bottom with a sleeve pillar that separately "sets" the bottom metal a fixed distance from the bottom of the action, with the load mostly in the pillaring sleeve.
The active fit was done with the action post hard-fitted to the action collar thingus. Rifle gets epoxied, then the whole mess is screwed together a half-turn short of "full" and left to set upside down. (I let all my rifles cure upside down, with most of the weight on the front ring base, barrel hanging in air.)
After hardening, I pop out the action, ream the screw hole (if needed to clear the screw shank and threads), then experiment with how much "crank" gives the happy amount of squeeze/torque. Sometimes its "full", sometimes a quarter, or none, but in all cases I want a free-turning screw to a "hard" stop, where the screw torque rises quickly upon head contact, but nothing else is moving, neither the tang nor the barrel. Then there are two more tries with the epoxy, first for "voids" if any, and then a final skim coat, just a dash, if needed.
The goal for me is to have the action "click" in and out, with no springing or preload on either action screw.
Both ways have worked well for me, neither one seems to have much of an advantage as they both involve multiple steps. But Mausers honestly have a lot of "air" instead of metal--good bedding makes Mausers happy.
