That FP retaining screw has zero relationship to the safety.... Zero. It's truly an unnecessary item.. Remove it and the rifle works just fine.. I haven't done it, but some people (in order to not leave a hole) have simply ground down the screw's length and then replaced it in the shroud..
That's what I did after checking with Lee on PM. Ground that sucker down and plugged the hole with it, With a dab of blue.
Not knowing exactly what I was doing, it took a LOOOONG time with dykem and small files to get that safety working on the Tubb. Slicker than snail snot on a shiny slide, now. More metal to be removed than the instructions led me to believe, initially. Mostly in assembly/disassembly, and waiting for the dykem to dry for the next fit... And most of the rest hunting the retaining washer between spring and clip. Three times.... I did learn to close the garage bay door after the first time. The factory spring has a range of about 40', the retaining washer another 7 or 8 FYI. Big magnet with a 6" chunk of 1" square stock to cut the attraction turned out to be an excellent gunsmithing aid out there in the gravel....
Turned out I could have done the same with the original - and "saved" $115 for the Tubb, delivered.. Education doesn't come cheap - and if it does, probably isn't worth it anyway.
Anyone need a hardly used 1981 70XTR fwt FP assembly and spring? Cheap.
. And yes, it does have the shroud screw flat in it.
Speedlock FP protrusion screwed all the way in was .083, within Tubb's "acceptable" .085 maximum. It backed out just a teeny bit when I drilled the crosspin hole- didn't measure that, but it is now .069, a bit longer than the .060 "recommended". Doesn't punch holes, anyway.
I sure hope that Tubb FP upgrade improves the accuracy as promised.
.
This was with the original FP, after full length glass bedding from recoil lug forward, as I was getting the scope tuned in and waiting for the Tubb. True, it's only one group, so we'll see. The shoot-for-group (and POI) 5-9 was with the ammo I'll be hunting caribou (Fed Pro hunter 140 in 7x57mm) within a couple weeks, all the rest were 140 Corelokts which were up and left, last one just visible at top were chasing the bullet hole adjustment shots. I did call # 9 for what it's worth. Got antsy. Range was 94 yards- far as I can shoot in my yard.
So I now know roughy how these two ammos compare in POI., and also the adjustments on the 2.5 X8 VXIII, which is NOT 1/4" per click! Closer to 1/2". A valuable piece of information. Pretty sure the Corelokts will be just as accurate, just different POI. 1.5 inches higher, 1.5 inches lefter...
The VXII 3.5x10 on the '98 is also about 1/3" per click, not 1/4 as claimed.
Both ammos (have 10 rounds each left) came partial box with the rifle, and I still have a full box of Fed 175s (also included) to check out.
gotta load the pic to imgur...
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/ZFU18WC.jpg)
One more thing- Win cut that bbl channel way deep but left a half dozen or so pressure points in it. Hence the opening up and full-length pour.
That epoxy runs deep- rifle may be a few ounces heavier than "featherweight" anymore.
. I'll weigh it again to see, and post some of my rifle weights for comparison in the general BS section.
IIRC, the '94 30-30 with aperture sight is the lightest. Gets good groups (2" or so) with my poor eyes at 94 yards. I want to shoot it at 200 yet..if I can find a place. It is going to go as primary if i can see well enough - it is accurate enough; the 70 as backup. 70 is virgin for me, but I once killed a white-tail doe with the '94.
In 1966....
