As kid has mentioned, they are older trucks. Being in the 20 yr range, seals will show their age. There are many of them. Stupid-easy to tear into the top end of these big blocks and get after them:
Some of my obesevations so far:
High pressure oil pump and high pressure oil lines run at thousands of psi, to pop off the injectors. Oil leaks will happen. The oil leaks into the valley and down the back of the engine, mimicking a rear main seal leak. New hoses and and hpop rebuild is all of $250 dollars. $140 for the ipr valve, which controls throttle response and idle. Too easy to rebuild.
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/164.htmlGarret turbo also has a bunch of seals, pull it and reseal it/ upgrade it. The original turbine and compressor wheel is archaic geometry. Replace with a KC turbos kit.
https://kcturbos.com/collections/7-...d-assembly-diy-turbo-kit-7-3-powerstroke The waste gate appears to blow off boost at about 18 psi on mine. Replace it with a Banks big head waste gate.
https://www.bankspower.com/i-1105-b...03-ford-f250-f350-7-3l-power-stroke.htmlThe engine de-fuels at 22-23 psi of boost. Install a boost fooler that regulates boost signal so as not to defuel the engine.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ocr-...L0wOKjJ9Oe6ApYppMgF7r74lLfhoCp7EQAvD_BwEInjectors have coolant flowing through them, diesel fuel flowing into them, and oil flowing into them. There are o rings to prevent leaks. It is $12 to reseal each injector. When you do glow plugs, just reseal them if they are the originals.
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/94.htmlCamshaft appears to be forged, billet steel, lifters are roller lifters. They don't need to be lashed, but two of my rockers were loose. Re-torque them all.
Ford motorcraft glow plug relay is Garbage, replace with a bigger, white Rodgers relay.
https://www.amazon.com/RODGERS-586-902-CONTACTOR-SPST-NO-BRACKET/dp/B00DE3HY4KOEM battery size is not sufficient in a cold environment, build new battery trays for the big Napa commercial, 1000 cold crank amp batteries.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7234OEM Starter is too small and slow in winter weather, replace with a gigantic, under-driven starter and it will spin your motor at twice the rpms on start-up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004D0HNUS/ref=psdcmw_15731421_t1_B000VVXKMSFactory airbox is restrictive and the old, thin plastic will have cracks. The stock air filter is puny. Due to oil droplets cycling through from the valve cover into the air filter sytem, the dry paper filters get gunked up quick. Especially if you drive around areas with forest fire smoke in the air. Replace with a new unit.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/s-b-...ZRFsSp_Qh2yVIHzF6kfh1g3TsERoCNSYQAvD_BwEAnyhow, cheap and easy motor to work on and upgrade. Old seals are old seals, nothing to get worried about.
