Both will work. I would favor the one I could set up best for "aiming."
I like to use the top of my strike plate as the elevation reference point for the distance I tune my bow. Variables used for tuning: arrow weight, release ( 3-under or split), nock position, strike plate height ( and thickness), point/broadhead weight, arrow length, and brace length/height ( fine tuning "weak-strong")..
To tune my bow for 20 yards, I shoot with a "3 under" release. I like to position my nock about 3/4" + /- above perpendicular, to aid "aiming.". I do this to coordinate the arrow's point of impact (POI) at the range I desire, let's say "20" yards, with the top.of the strike plate to be the "elevation" setting for a POI at "20" yards or whatever distance you wish) .. You can use a taller or shorter strike plate to do this ("taller" lowers POI, "shorter" raises POI) as well as raising the rear nock ( to lower the POI). You can also use a heavier arrow to lower the POI, along with using a 3-under release ( split finger raises POI... a LOT).. Put all these variables together, and you can easily tune your bow to be dead on at the desired distance ; ie, 15, 17, 20 yards. It works well for me (and for 3-d competion).
Use the arrow which fits your POI needs at the distance you are setting up/tuning your bow. Both are "heavy enough" ( >9 gpp for ~"standard").
PS. I have a Red Wing Hunter too. GREAT bow. Mine is a Head Ski era mfg (1967), 41# @28" . I draw about 29.5" , so at 2.5#/in increase, I am holding 43-44#....pretty much the same as your 45#@28" RWH at 27" draw. I use Easton xx75 aluminum full length 2016 Tribute shafts with 175 grain points or Zwickey screw-in "No Mercy" broad heads. I used the heavier 2016 arrow (instead of a 1916 shaft) to lower POI. I needed to use a heavier point to adjust "weak - strong" POI ("left/right") due to the heavier stiffer arrow. I have never cut / shortened an arrow ( makes them stiffer, and shoot left, or "strong" for a right handed shooter.). I adjust weak/strong (L/R) with either point weight, or filing/sanding the bow's strike plate wall area more past center (or first use the thinnest leather I can find as a strike plate , to move POI to the right, before sanding). Fine tune weak/strong with brace height if needed (shorter brace height moves POI left. Longer brace height moves POI to right...slightly , for a right handed bow).
Good luck.
