I've always bedded the entire lug except the bottom. Before bedding, the lug was deburred and corners rounded and SMOOTH. If there was any wrong way taper it was removed. My thinking is that I want to keep everything straight and not moving or coming to rest. It was at rest when bedded. I had to bed a Rem 700 that was not and the action/lug would shift to one side of the mortise when fired causing the barrel to hit the stock and throw subsequent shots to the opposite side of the contact.
To test a theory, I made some snug fitting shims (steel) and affixed them to the sides of the lug and fit to the stock. At the next range session the shifting stopped and the groups shrank from 3+" to 1". I then full bedded the lug and groups shrank a bit more.
To remove the barreled action from the stock required that I lift it straight out of the stock. Lifting from the barrel ( while pushing against the stock ) and the half retracted bolt (again while pushing against the stock ) the action came out without a fuss. As far as shaving the bedding when reassembling, I have not seen evidence of that. I'll take a tight bedding job any time.
As an aside, I am not a gunsmith but I am a retired, apprenticeship trained, machinist/toolmaker. I like learning to do things with my brain and hands...
ob
old_boots,
I'll second your technique also,as I bed a Rem the same,front,back,sides & bottom.
Stress Free...is Stress Free.
If one heats a recoil lug to require floating the bottom....you'll have other issues prior.
I'm glad these lug floaters are NOT structural engineers that do NOT back fill a foundation.
IF all else fails-Glue it in.
