It is gonna cost if you have a 'smith do it. I'd charge you about $300 for the refinish and hand checker clean up- and I'm "retired"! Takes time, and time is money.
It isn't hard to do it yourself- True Oil and Linspeed work well as finishes for the common folk. It is what I use on mine. If you want a really hard finish, go to the archives and check out Sitka Deer's epoxy work.
You can get checkering kits from Brownell's (as well as refinish kits). Know what your checkering lines/inch are when you order. As a beginner, I'd advise you only work (slowly and carefully!)1/4 to 1/2 hour at a time on the checkering, resting your eyes and impatience at least 8 hours in between. Quit before you think you need to, and before you start making mistakes. Use a timer, or you will start making mistakes and over-runs. It takes intense concentration and good motor skills. Even experienced, I never do more than one panel at a time. An opti-visor helps (slight magnification). I hate checkering! Even cleanup. But neither refinishing nor the checkering stuff is that hard.
The last stock I built for myself, I left clean - no checkering. Haven't noticed it affects either looks or handling.
I usually use a chemical finish remover on the old finish, and a toothbrush in the checkering. Then I tape off the checkering before starting the new finish application. Once that is done, I clean up the checkering and apply several coats of finish to the checkering, again with a toothbrush, being carefull of overlap. This keeps the checkering sharp, without fill-in.
If the original finish isn't broken to where moisture can attack the wood, leave it alone. Minor dents and scratches are badges of honor.
