How do you accurately check the twist in-order to differenciate between a true 1-10 tist and a 1-10.4 twist for instance.
Were the holes in the target round of oblong? SOmetimes a load just isn't correct for a particular rifle
Just curious.
I tried some 325 grain Wildcat bullets in my 338 Lapua and I know that others were shooting them from a 1-10 twist with good resuslts. The bullets were key holing from my rifle and even broke the middle shade arm on my Olher 35, yet every twist calculator calculated them to stabilize in a 1-11 twist but for some reason I could not get them to in my rifle, so yes it can happen
