I was asked in a PM to describe the basic takedown procedure that I did to take mine apart.

1.Take Buttstock off, single screw on tang.

2.Hammer Spring is exposed and has a yoke that rests in groove of a stop screw on the lower tang. This thing sucks to get off. There is a groove for a screwdriver to push it down, but I couldn't get enough into it. The spring will not shoot anything across the room, it just doesn't compress easily. Once this is off it's even funner getting it back on again. I am not a fan of pliers for any gun work, but in this case I locked onto the yoke piece with a set of vise grips that have jaws that open up to encircle the stop screw. By putting the barrel down on a piece of carpeting I was finally able to get enough leverage to push down and lift the yoke past the stop screw. I do not recommend or even keep pliers on my bench, but had to in this case.

3. Remove Hammer Pivot Screw and then remove hammer out the top.

4. Remove Lever pivot screw and remove lever with attached carrier bar.

5. Remove screw on the bottom of receiver towards the front. This attaches the lower tang, then remove the left side screw which is also holds the lower tang. Tang can be removed by sliding back 1/16th and remove upwards.

6. Carrier can be removed

7. Unless the staking or riveted loading gate has to be fixed don't remove it. You can wiggle the bolt and the little slider fixture out past it, without taking it out.

To do this the bolt is slid back until the nose can just pass the edge of the loading gate then pull up on the attached slider piece. The slider piece runs up and down in a groove and will be obvious when you take the gun apart. wiggle and pull up and the two will come out as a unit, but are not attached, so don't drop them. This allows you access to clean the inside of the receiver.

8. There is a picture where I am using a Q-tip to point to a hole. The 2nd piece of the firing pin is held in place by that screw. Remove the screw and the pin comes out the back with spring. It can only go back in one way as the screw is offset to one side of the pin.

9. Restaking or removing the loading gate. As stated mine was loose so was binding on the bolt. I punched the the pin out from the outside and then cleaned up the pin that was remaining. By resting it on the side of my anvil and tapping lightly all the way around I was able to "Draw" the metal back out into the same diameter of the pin. Once this was done I took a tight fitting block of steel to act as a backer for the pin, inside the receiver. By using a punch and working lightly and tapping around the face of the pin, it riveted the pin back into place. I kept at it until the loading gate spring was flush inside its groove and would no longer bind the bolt as it moved down into it's open position. This is the same technique I was taught for riveting ejector springs into place for Remington 870's.

Hope this is helpful