Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Engine flush?

Anybody use one of those engine flush products? Auto's or marvels mystery oil, gunk en h inexpensive flush any of those?

F'n auto correct!

Haven't used anything in years, but back in the 80's would add a quart of Rislone and five quarts of Valvoline 10W40 to the 300 inline six in one of my F150's. Did this about every fourth or fifth oil change. Don't know if it did any good, but the engine didn't use any oil and was still running strong when I sold it with 282,000 miles....

Add a quart of ATF 2 or 3 days before I intend to have oil changed.
As good or better than the other stuff.

Myron

A cup of diesel added to the crankcase and idle for a couple minutes before draining.

When I have an engine I think needs interior cleaning I use engine flush by gunk, works great! Do not add it and drive it is meant to use at an idle it thins the oil and removes solidified oils in the oil passages.

It's been awhile but I think the directions read to idle it for 5 minutes and then drain I usually idle it for 8 to 10 minutes on real dirty engines and then let it sit in the pan for 20 minutes to let it loosen anything in the pan and then drain. I also watch the oil.pressure the whole time just in case a large chunk let's loose and clogged a passage but to this day I have never had a problem with it.

Best oil you believe serves your use.
Maintain proper drain intervals.
Maintain engine & PCV system.

Worked for a company that had engines on a SOAP program. (Spectrum Oil analysis Program) Other then things coming undone/wear, a good drain interval cured a multitude of sins.

You are correct. In my shop over the years we have seen sludged engines that have had a flush. Where does the CRAP go?
It goes to the bottom of the oil pan and clogs the screen on the oil pump pickup.

Use a decent quality crude & even better quality oil filter.

-Ken

I would agree that proper oil change intervals is the best flush

however I've heard people rave about Sea Foam as an engine flush

Its been mentioned but when I bought my son a car that had 150K miles to it, I dropped the oil pan to see if there was sludge. That was going to determine if I felt the engine needed a flush or not.

Yup,
Though I lean towards about 1/2 and half.... nary a problem with anything plugging or otherwise screwing up over more than 50 years.

No clue as to how these new computerized, "sensor" equipped scams on wheels react to that,...I don't mess with em'

GTC

Its that simple. Any oil that meets API specs is going to have detergents that will prevent "sludge" unless you just run it into the ground....more so the synthetics. No BS products or potions required. The filter is the weak link so change it when you change oil. I've never used anything but oil and never had any problems with "sludge".

The above is my opinion. Obviously not everyone agrees because auto parts places sell plenty of products for "flushing" engines.

I can see a need for such things tho - not everyone owns and maintains a vehicle from new. Sometimes you buy used and just don't KNOW what's been done.

When I was a kid, Rislone and a couple other such additives were popular with guys who tried to take care of their engines and avoid sludge and clogging of passages. But, they used the stuff consistently - added some when they changed oil - swore by the process and the product - and had little of the engine wear/sludge issues experienced by others.

In 1958 I bought a 1948 Studebaker Starlight Coupe (green) for $20 - had two dented fenders and ran good but got hot, so I adjusted the timing (overheating ended) and went to the junkyard and got two fenders (black). Bolted the fenders on and got a cheap paint job and was golden. Then, to be good to my jewel, decided to add a quart of Rislone. Bad move.

That straight six started to smoke and burn oil - something fierce. Dad explained that the engine had been fairly settled and was going OK with the goo and other deposits in there - even on the piston rings - but the "cleaner" broke a lot of it loose, especially on the rings. I drove it for two more years as a smoker although the oil burning did slow down - but always carried a gallon of oil in the trunk.

One early/good habit has served well. Regular oil changes using good quality oil (quality has evolved) and good filters has worked. And, now I do add/runat idle a quart of ATF just before the oil change. Over 57 years and over 40 vehicles later have never had an engine problem due to wear or internal breakdown. Also, have never used Rislone again.

Start using synthetic oil and it will remove the sludge. Use synthetic from the beginning and there won't be any sludge to worry about.

You should never put automatic transmission fluid in your crankcase! It contains plastics that can ruin your fuel injectors when it burns.

Worked wonders in the 70's on my sister first car- a Volare.

Well, as much as a wonder could work on a Volare.

She easily went 10k without ever thinking of an oil change. Threw a can of solvent in there and changed it for her. Damn thing didn't drain, it pooped.

Tried flushing the 350 in my old GMC 3/4 ton one time; couldn't even fit the damned thing into the toilet bowl, much less get it to flush.

I'm not a mechanic, so maybe you can help me understand how the ATF gets from the crankcase to the fuel system?

... and what is this "fuel injectors" you speak of?