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Can't beat spray on foam. Putting in R6 insulation is like scratching a pimple on an elephant's butt. You might think you are doing something but the elephant can't feel it.

A stated above,you can do the spray in increments.


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Years ago we had a bunch of shops burn down around here. It happened when spray insulation caught fire, usually from welding sparks. It would almost explode and whoever was inside would have to sprint for the nearest door. Not all of them made it out. They've long since solved the problem by special fireproof paints to cover the foam but it was pretty scary at the time.


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Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Years ago we had a bunch of shops burn down around here. It happened when spray insulation caught fire, usually from welding sparks. It would almost explode and whoever was inside would have to sprint for the nearest door. Not all of them made it out. They've long since solved the problem by special fireproof paints to cover the foam but it was pretty scary at the time.


Having at one time worked for a big chemical company, I know just enough about urethane and similar products to be concerned about deadly fumes in case of fire.

Maybe somebody here knows more than I about this, but I personally would avoid it for that reason. grin


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Originally Posted by ironbender
For a barn, i wouldn't put those panels up. You likely will want something a bit nicer in the gun room. The spray urethane is sort of a tan creamy color, firm surface, and it's own VB. If you want it brighter (very few barns and shops have adequate lighting, IMO) rent a sprayer and paint it white.


Ironbender has it nailed here. The rigidity of the foam is more than enough with out putting up panels. Want it brighter paint it white. Just doesn't get any better. Get a descent R value when you actually spray, at least 15 more depending on where you live. If you are in a tornado area the rigidity of the foam will help a LOT.


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Originally Posted by Anjin
Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Years ago we had a bunch of shops burn down around here. It happened when spray insulation caught fire, usually from welding sparks. It would almost explode and whoever was inside would have to sprint for the nearest door. Not all of them made it out. They've long since solved the problem by special fireproof paints to cover the foam but it was pretty scary at the time.


Having at one time worked for a big chemical company, I know just enough about urethane and similar products to be concerned about deadly fumes in case of fire.

Maybe somebody here knows more than I about this, but I personally would avoid it for that reason. grin


For those not in the know, there are building codes these days. You have to limit flame spread and smoke ... whats the word... i swear I'm getting old... producing smoke...

Anyway while things used to be one way I'd find it hard to believe that any new foam out there would not adhere to residential/commercial flame spread/smoke production guides. Its noted on every plan I review in podunk USA.

There is even fire rated spray on foam now... FWIW Meaning not only will it not burn much, it'll be so slow in trying to burn it will net you an X hour fire rating.


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Originally Posted by GunReader
Originally Posted by dennisinaz
Use the Dow board, cut it to fit tightly, tape it with Tyvek tape, cover with FRP panels. You have the right idea. You can glue the FRP panels to the Dow board to keep them tight. You will want some mechanical connection to the barn, however.


Dennis, Are you agreeing with putting the Dow board between the stringers or over them? By mechanical connection, are you meaning something other than taping the stringer/Dow Board joints?

Rost, et al, Yeah, R6 ain't much. But I won't be in there much, if at all, in the winter. This won't be heated unless I am forced to work on one of the cars or something, in which case the heat will be a woodstove. Alleviating the solar oven effect in the summer is as big of a concern as heating.

The gun room will be heated but I'm looking for a way to control the temp to only stay a few degrees above the rest of the barn to keep condensation out. I figure that's the same principle as a Golden Rod or light bulb in a safe.



Between the stringers. Get whatever thickness it takes to fill the void.


I say this because you can do all of this yourself. Spray on foam is crazy expensive but very good.


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Originally Posted by rost495


For those not in the know, there are building codes these days. You have to limit flame spread and smoke ... whats the word... i swear I'm getting old... producing smoke...

Anyway while things used to be one way I'd find it hard to believe that any new foam out there would not adhere to residential/commercial flame spread/smoke production guides. Its noted on every plan I review in podunk USA.

There is even fire rated spray on foam now... FWIW Meaning not only will it not burn much, it'll be so slow in trying to burn it will net you an X hour fire rating.


For those not in the know there are PLENTY of places in northern MN and WI, and I'm sure others, that there aren't any building codes.

A good friend of mine just finished building a $300K "cabin" in central MN that didn't have any codes and it's on a populated recreational lake... in a town.


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They may not REQUIRE building permits in certain, non populated areas but there are building codes everywhere. The US has gone generally to the IBC. International Building Codes. Now, even if the area you are in doesn't require a permit the products you use will still meet codes because generally speaking those are the products used where building permits are required.



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Idaho County has no building code...........

That means, not inspected......


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Originally Posted by wageslave
Idaho County has no building code...........

That means, not inspected......


Yes, that is how it is in many areas here.


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I have a 30x30 pole building that I use as my hunting cabin in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan; the floor joists are about 3' off the ground and it is metal sided. Every contractor / builder that I asked said to spray it with foam - it would both insulate and seal the cabin. I was up there in November deer hunting. The night before I left I let the wood stove burn out (about 10:00) and decided to just use the propane heater if needed. The inside of the cabin was about 75 when the stove went cold. It got down to about 5 degrees that night and never more than 30 the next day. At 6:30 the next night as I was closing the door to leave, the inside of the cabin was at 58 - and I had never even lit the pilot on the heater. Couldn't believe how well it held heat. I've also checked and not been able to find a draft anywhere when the wind has been gusting to 35 MPH. Cost to spray 6" in the walls, 16" in the ceiling and 6" underneath was about $5,000 as I recall.

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You can save some cost by not spraying full thickness (didn't catch if wall thickness was mentioned). You can have the contractor spray to the "R: value (foam thickness) that you want.

Maybe more in the gun room area; maybe less in the barn/work area.


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Originally Posted by tzone
Originally Posted by rost495


For those not in the know, there are building codes these days. You have to limit flame spread and smoke ... whats the word... i swear I'm getting old... producing smoke...

Anyway while things used to be one way I'd find it hard to believe that any new foam out there would not adhere to residential/commercial flame spread/smoke production guides. Its noted on every plan I review in podunk USA.

There is even fire rated spray on foam now... FWIW Meaning not only will it not burn much, it'll be so slow in trying to burn it will net you an X hour fire rating.


For those not in the know there are PLENTY of places in northern MN and WI, and I'm sure others, that there aren't any building codes.

A good friend of mine just finished building a $300K "cabin" in central MN that didn't have any codes and it's on a populated recreational lake... in a town.
If y'all didn't read below.... the point was,as another noted, there is generally no reason to make things that don't meet code as there are very few places where they are allowed anymore...

Hence if it has to be X to meet code I'd bet 95% of things meet code these days...

Whether permitted, inspected etc.... by that I'm saying products.

What folks do labor wise is a total joke, I've seen a LOT of contractors build one way inspected and totally sloppy junk when not inspected but thats human nature these days.

But most of the physical products have to and do meet minimal codes.


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BTW Texas and many otgher states adopted IBC stuff some years back, not always enforced in rural areas but is supposed to be. Not that it matters. Just a tidbit for those that think rural is always less restrictive.

But like I've told a few I inspected that complained, its why I live in the country, I'd tell myself to take my books and shove em...



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Where IBC comes into play is when you buy Insurance, or when you decide you want to sell your property getting better loans etc. Too many people ignore permitting or at least inspections to their detriment down the road. Just call your insurance agent and ask him.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
You can save some cost by not spraying full thickness (didn't catch if wall thickness was mentioned). You can have the contractor spray to the "R: value (foam thickness) that you want.


Keeping the heat in/ keep the wind out. An inch of closed cell or a couple of inches of open cell will make all the difference in the world. The foam seals up and keeps air out like nothing else. Hard Foam board or batting and tape cannot even come close.

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Nobody is arguing that the spray foam is not the best. I am simply suggesting that he can make do with Dow board which is what his ceiling is insulated with. He can get the FRP panels free. Obviously he is trying to stay in a budget here.

I sprayed my the underside of my roof deck with foam on the last house I built (2009). I didn't insulate the attic. It was a wonderful system but cost me over $20K just for the roof. This was with open cell water born insulation. Closed cell urethane was a little higher R-value, had a structural component to it and more than double the cost.


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I was suggesting a way to perhaps get the best of both worlds. Get spray foam AND limit ins. thickness to same some $.

Everyone is free to do what they want. For now. wink


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Originally Posted by ironbender
I was suggesting a way to perhaps get the best of both worlds. Get spray foam AND limit ins. thickness to same some $.

Everyone is free to do what they want. For now. wink
.

0 bummer ain't gone yet. smile


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Originally Posted by dennisinaz
Nobody is arguing that the spray foam is not the best. I am simply suggesting that he can make do with Dow board which is what his ceiling is insulated with. He can get the FRP panels free. Obviously he is trying to stay in a budget here.

I sprayed my the underside of my roof deck with foam on the last house I built (2009). I didn't insulate the attic. It was a wonderful system but cost me over $20K just for the roof. This was with open cell water born insulation. Closed cell urethane was a little higher R-value, had a structural component to it and more than double the cost.


20K must have been a huge house.


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