Bell and Carlson Creative Effects system.. ran me $65 plus shipping a couple of years ago on my Howa 1500. Really like the result, and they have several patterns to choose from.
I'm a newbie to this so bear with me. Do you start with spraying marine tex, then krylon satin hunter green, hit it with webbing spray and seal with ? By the way, looks fantastic!
Texture with Marine Tex and a stiff small cell sponge of some type. I actually used the packing from a TSX bullet box. Mix it up and start where ever you like I usually start from the recoil pad forward. Work relatively quickly as the MT will change texture fairly rapidly. After your done the MT will be tacky, that's when I spray the stock with the Krylon. It will take a few days to cure, then hit it lightly with webbing spray and you're done. No clear coat needed in my experience.
Karnis ... that's brilliant the way you use a very light coating of MT to texture the entire stock, and then quickly spray the base coat of the paint to the MT so that they "fuse" together and become one ... Can't think of a better way to insure that the paint job sticks and stays to the stock ...
whoever said it earlier was right ... you missed your calling ... or at least one of them ...
It will stick, but you need to scratch the stock down with 320 or so sand paper, then "degrease" it, i.e. clean it with alcohol and don't leave any paw prints. I use surgical gloves to handle the stock so no stray "oil" gets anywhere. BTW, all of this may sound complicated but it's not difficult and quite easy to repair if'in you ding the stock, etc. If the texturing is a bit rough in places, you can sand it down a bit. Pointy MT on the cheekpiece might remove a few patches o'shhkinn. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
Google up Marine-Tex, I use the gray which is the same material I use for bedding/repairing/reshaping synthetics (palm swells, comb height, etc.) works great.
Pop, their are many methods that work. I read the following in a gun mag many years ago & have utililized on both plastic, fiberglass, & wood. Use a bit of fine sandpaper to improve paint adhesion. Spray a primer of any wp color. Use wp colors to camo if desired. I then lightly spray with trunk paint. Creates an interesting finish. Spray with clear sealer ( 2 coates). I purchase @ auto supply store. I have redone a number of stocks that were worn due to bouncing in racks of atv & safari vehicles. Good luck.
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On my Vanguard I used "trunk" coating spray for texture, except on the cheek piece.
Then I used Brownell's paints with a GI Joe plastic toy colored green base and some big blades of grass and some leaves for a pattern when I added rusty reds, tans, and browns.
I did all but the barrel markings area in a dark tan. It is ugly and is a deadly killer. It needs a a touch up, maybe. But I have used it now for about eight years and it has knocked around in some rough areas, on backpacks, planes, atv's, and it took a nasty drop in stride a couple of weeks ago during elk season.
Krylon is forever so make sure you want it on there. God help you if you decide to strip it off later. Unless someone knows a trick to getting rid of that s**t.
I worked on ship where it was used in the wrong place and it took wire wheels to get it off, and we had serious solvents available.
does that ruger wear the laminate? i painted up my savage heavy laminate similar and it really changed the look of the gun for about $10.... way happier!!
woofer
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
and this afternoon I did the barrel and scope...After a friend said I had to get rid of the 'rag' cover <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> . Don
and this afternoon I did the barrel and scope...After a friend said I had to get rid of the 'rag' cover <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> . Don
I'd never think a fella would do anything to cover up a laminate! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> But, it does look good.
Everyone's photo's are well done and show the results nicely! I'll be looking for a stock to do similar work. Thanks for the posts!
If I understand it right, the Marine-Tex is used to create some texture on the stock. (increased gripping) serving much the same purpose as checkering on wooden stocks.
and this afternoon I did the barrel and scope...After a friend said I had to get rid of the 'rag' cover <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> . Don
I'd never think a fella would do anything to cover up a laminate! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> But, it does look good.
Everyone's photo's are well done and show the results nicely! I'll be looking for a stock to do similar work. Thanks for the posts!
Krylon makes a textured fusion paint that bonds to plastic, then just cover with one of there camo fusion to flatten out the color. I have done a couple.. I have always been partial to the camo used by the military snipers, US Woodland camo, but could never figure out how to do it. Finally read somewhere that it is a reverse stencil process tried it and it works great. After a couple of texured coats cover complete stock in one of the four flat camo fusion colors. Get some of that blue painters tape at your local hardware the good stuff kinda expensive though, a small cardboard square coverd with some butcher paper shinny side up. Roll out strips of blue painters tape, and draw your camo designs cut out with xacto knife places them on your first coat of dried camo paint make sure they seal down well, do anohter coat, continure until you have used all four camo colors I believe they are black, tan, green, and brown. then peel off all your tape. Really looks good I tried clear coat but leaves it a little to glossy for my taste.
I love the looks you guys have come up with!! I want to do the same to an old Win 190 that has a half way finished Tru-Oil finish over a water based stain that is going to end up looking like muddy barf. Will your finishing methods work over Tru-Oil or do i need to (sigh) strip it back to bare wood?
I love the looks you guys have come up with!! I want to do the same to an old Win 190 that has a half way finished Tru-Oil finish over a water based stain that is going to end up looking like muddy barf. Will your finishing methods work over Tru-Oil or do i need to (sigh) strip it back to bare wood?
BTDT trying to paint over tru-oil, had poor adhesion and did not last, had to strip to bare wood...
Hunt hard, kill clean, waste nothing and offer no apologies.
"In rifle work, group size is of some interest...but it is well to remember that a rifleman does not shoot groups, he shoots shots." Jeff Cooper
I have a McMillan on one of my rifles. Painted black from the factory. Could I paint over it with Krylon or would I have to try to remove the factory coat first?
I actually called krylon to talk to them about their "Fusion" paint. They could not guarantee me that their paint would adhere to other manufactures paints. They told me that theirs was specifically desinged to chemically bond to plastic and to previous layers of their own paint.
As for the painting over the tru-oil, I am kinda leaning toward 1899sav, if you have a collectable you may be doing more harm then good, otherwise you want to strip the stock down to bare wood. You sounded if that would be a job. Really not that bad. Try and old timers receipe, 1 cup of clorox, 2 gallon of hot water hot as your hands can stand it (wearing gloves help) the original receipe called for mister clean, but I have replaced that with dawn dishing washing liquid. Get a sponge and go to town, should not take long to get it down to bare wood. Remember to tread lightly around any checkering, and to rinse thourghly with fresh water before you dry it off.
The rifles you did look "Great". RE: the marine tex when I go to their web-site they have many different products. Which one is that you use? Thanks for you imput!!
What a great thread!!Great stocks done by all.Now if I could just decide on base color I want,will be doing a Brown precision stock on my ol rem 600.Thanks for the ideas.
I'd re-texture, easy to do. You don't necessarily have to "sand" it flat. You can get 40-50% "flat" re-texture and repaint. Also might be a good time to do a palm swell .
I'm going to try my hand on a takeoff Rem syn MR stock that is factory black. I've got the Krylon Fusion camo flat green and the black webbing and then plan to top it with Krylon matte clear coat (if I need to).. Hard for me to decipher whether the fusion will stick to the factory stock without doing the Marine Tex thing. For a first timer is there anything else I need to know?
“There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.” ALDO LEOPOLD
Make sure to degrease the stock. I've used the stuff made by Birchwood Casey to clean metal (synthetic stock version), alcohol, etc. All that after "scratching" it down. From then on I handle with surgical gloves so no oil from ma feengers gets on the plastic. Hang the stock at about eye level or a bit lower and start spraying. Don't spray it on real thick or it will run, just start covering and work your way around the stock. Follow the directions on the can as far as reapplying product.
Oh yeah, remove the sling swivels and the recoil pad if possible. If not at least mask off the pad.
I just ordered a synthetic stock for my son's ultralight and I plan on doing the exact paint scheme for his. You did a great job, congratulations. Is that the Krylon camo ultra flat?
Has anyone painted over rino liner? Its the stuff they put in you're truck box. I have a HS percision that the smith who built the gun did up but want to paint over it. Will Krylon paint stick to it?
It�s a magazine not a clip......
Advice is seldom welcome, and those who need it the most, like it the least.� - Lord Chesterfield. 1750
Gonna take this a step further...by mistake, and a dose of ingenuity.
Been hunting just the right shade of Gray to go with the Sniper Gray cerekote on my 700 LA, and had figured on black web painting as well.
Having struck out on the right Gray color paint, as all I could find was gloss rustoleum in a kinda close shade, I mixed up a bunch of test pieces textured with Marine-Tex....which just happens to be "gray" and got to thinkin'......
Problem is, it's more black than gray until it's sanded. I scuffed off the cured "sponged texture" with a scotch brite pad and discovered the EXACT texture I wanted, plus a lighter shade of gray....perfect.
So, I have a can of Krylon flat clearcoat that's mixed in with the 15 or so assorted cans I've bought to just "try", and shot it with the clear. Turned out nice and satiny flat but it went back to "black" as soon as it got wet, too dark. Stayed that way too.
So I was figuring a way to lighten the "black" Marine-Tex, as I've done the accraglass brown thing on wood stocks, and was wishing I'd got the white too, and maybe try darkening it. I remembered then, a half used up double tube of white Marine Epoxy I used to patch a boat somewhere, and the light bulb went on.
Holding my breath for fear of mixed chemicals, but not at all deterred from trying, I managed to "mix" just the right shade of Gray and sponge textured it onto a chunk of wood.
Figured after it cures, if it actually does, I can scuff it up with a scotch brite the same way and shoot it with the clear, and get my shade of gray. If the same holds true I'll have just the right stock finish less any paint to maybe chip off.
There's lots of epoxy dyes out there and it seems like it might could work for a wider spectrum of colors. Thinkin' I'll try a Web Paint speciman as well to decide if it needs that or not, on this rifle. Likely can web spray it then try clear coating over the web spray to meld it in together, better.
Don't hurt to try different stuff, I'd guess........
I've an electrical screw driver with the rubberized coating the length of the shank. Just so happens it squeezes nice and snug into the forward stock bolt hole after I ream 'em out to give the bolts clearance in completion of a bedding job.
Having that screw driver handle makes holding and hanging the stock any which way pretty easy.
Just used it last night to apply the texture on the one I've been talking about.........
I just painted the el' cheapo stock on my M700 about two hours ago. Found some plastic primer and followed it up with some Rustoleum "Earth" camo paint.
Upon removing the recoil pad I replaced a screw into the stock and tied a string to it. Hung it from a hook in the garage ceiling and sprayed away.
Just brought it in to spend the night with hot water heater.
My only concern thus far is that it's a little too flashy. I hope it don't spook critters....grin
Seriously, do you people use a clear coat afterwards?
It turned out darker than I wanted so she's gonna get a coat or two of some lighter paint. Hopefully the hardware store has the clear coat you're talkin' about Wilds.
Not to sound like a total dope, but what is Fusion? Krylon is almost nonexistant here and I was lucky to find what I got, the stuff I used was Krylon in a camo can, is that Fusion?
And if its not should I plan on clear coating?
It�s a magazine not a clip......
Advice is seldom welcome, and those who need it the most, like it the least.� - Lord Chesterfield. 1750