Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Add a venturi pipe on a wood tent stove for safety reason, is it necessary

Yep, getting a stove to draw has never been a problem I've needed a solution for.

Yep.....seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.....as long as you have enough stove pipe for a good draft the smoke all goes up the stack....sorry but you did ask....

Or if coals are low, one could just get up and throw a chunk of wood on them.....

I do have a stove in my remote log cabin where getting it to draw on starting a fire can (usually!) be a problem -0ne that smoked us out a number of times before the dimwit light went on.

It is a double wall cook stove roughly 30"x53" on the flattop. Firebox is on top left with chimney just to left of that. Draft feeds across the top to right, down right side, across bottom, right to left, and then up chimney. Can be real bitch to get drawing when it is colder inside than out- and even not so good when conditions are more favorable.

There are 1 1/2 x 3" clean out panels in several places on the front along top and bottom sections. One of these is on bottom left, near the chimney feed out.. Once the tinder gets going I stick a propane torch in that bottom cleanout as near the chimney as possible and run it enough to get draw going. Sometimes takes a couple minutes. Hardly smokes up the cabin at all!

Stove oven makes great bread!

I have thought before that I would like a second sleeve/pipe over my pipe inside my tent to capture and radiate more heat. That would be an improvement.

MM-
Pretty sure you mean a CO detector for carbon monoxide.

I've generally had good luck burning 1 or 2 crumpled pieces of newspaper to get air started up the stack.

but then you'd have to haul newspaper to your cabin.

Damn, gonna need a trailer now.

rig one of these up to keep the fan charged and going:


BioLite BaseCamp Stove

Couldn't you run a tube from the lower front portion of the stove, through the inside and then up into the chimney? As the tube is heated, cool air would be drown in from below the stove, heated in the stove and drawn up into the chimney. That would pull fresh air into the chimney without a fan. Not as powerful as a fan of course.

Stove itsself of BioLite is very small, you have to fill in small pieces of wood all the time.
Why do not you put TEG on top of your tent stove and it will work all night as long as your stove has enough wood.
Let me see whether I can do or not. Technically it is very easy.

I run and straight pipe through the roof and have never had an issue. If draft is low after 2 or 3 weeks, the pipe might need a slight cleaning. Pull it off and drag a pine branch through with a string.

yes my venturi pipe goes through inside the stove.
Please note the burning color on the pipe.
If blower stops spinning, the pipe is just for secondary combustion, fresh air will be drawn into chimney by natural draft .

the black section is near the bottom of stove, obviously there are enough smoke/soot inside the stove
The burnt color section is at outlet of chimney. Obviously the smoke/soot is burnt clean.
Secondary air supply for secondary combustion is necessary.

My thoughts exactly

never have seen a need to drag batteries to make my stove work into the back country or need a detector for Carbon monoxide . Seems like putting a saddle on a sow

Other posts about safety claim that never using a stove but a good bag.

I read a post.
It says 200 people are killed inside tent by Co in U.K. every year.
Most are because putting a BBQ grill inside a tent.
But 40 are because tent stove.

sounds you do need secondary air to burn cleaner.
Please remember most house fire is caused by soot inside the chimney. Nothing to say burning efficiency

Your audience here are NOT casual weekend campers in the UK, brainless enough to gas themselves in a tent.I AM having a hard time buying that 40 Brits do that anually, maybe Pete E can comment ?

Most of us have LIVED with wood heat for protracted periods of time, using any variety of equipment from the primitive "Airtight", and old oil drum lashups, to some of enviable quality. Many of us BUILD our own stoves.
I've made more than a few $ doing some nice ones on a custom "1 off" basis.......clean burners, one and all.

I've NEVER been a fan of 90* turns in updraft mode,....and favor 45*,....but the "3 to 1" ratio of Vert. to horiz. applies regardless. STRAIGHT UP is best, and always will be.

Forced draft IS the correct term for your device,....it lacks the radial "squeeze" that defines the term correctly.

No flame, and no offense, ...but this truly is an answer, looking for a problem to solve,....and one that few here are going to perceive / recognize.

GTC

This topic was posted over on Mountainbuzz, a rafting forum I've been frequenting as I bought a raft and have things to learn from guys there.
He got similar advice over there, I recommended him coming here as we all hunt and fish in the cold way more than rafters and told him we were honest, open, and pretty blunt.
Good to see I wasn't too wrong, thanks for not giving him the GFY welcome some newbies get.
I believe he is in Beijing, China.

http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/...-venturi-pipe-is-it-necessary-60201.html

Thanks all you a lot.
Both sites give me enough answers, not to waste my money on this upgrade.
I will focus on a traditional stove.