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Dave I know squat about doing body work. But I have had the pleasure of knowing several and few really good ones. But your work tops them all. Its all in the details and you seem to cover them all


I've always been different with one foot over the line.....

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OOps double post

Last edited by 7mmMato; 02/06/16.

I've always been different with one foot over the line.....
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Hi Dwayne, always a pleasure to hear from such a fine gentleman as yourself.

I'm unaware of any changes up front from 65-66. It is entirely possible that they improved something as simple as the idler arm. I lost an idler arm on this 66 myself at speed over 20 yrs ago and that will put a man in the ditch.

Not me, but probably some men.

Lol.

grin

Last edited by northern_dave; 02/06/16.

Something clever here.

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Great thread ND! You poor your heart into your work and it shows. You are a dam fine artist!


�Politicians are the lowest form of life on earth. Liberal Democrats are the lowest form of politician.� �General George S. Patton, Jr.

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ND car threads are the best part of the campfire. 10 times better when they provide a reprieve from the endless political bantering.

It's cool how the modern color looks great on a classic body.

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Hi dave, I'm looking to get back into spray painting cars again and thinking of getting a Devilbiss Tekna pro or the Tekna copper line, have you tried them and which one is better if one is better ? Thanks

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Awesome work! From one who is in the business to another, kudos. I'll stick to things mechanical, I don't have the patience, or the finesse for that matter, for the paint and bodywork smile


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IIRC,my first car was a 66 impala,and it was just about that same color,although time must have clouded my memory.


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Thanks for the paint system info Dave. Appreciate it, tho I had to google 1/2 of it.


Me



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Originally Posted by Outbackandy
Hi dave, I'm looking to get back into spray painting cars again and thinking of getting a Devilbiss Tekna pro or the Tekna copper line, have you tried them and which one is better if one is better ? Thanks


The tekna's are very popular guns. There really is no reason I don't have them, I've been a devilbiss fan for many years. My heavy primer gun is an FLG4 and I still use a devilbiss gravity plus gun for some stuff.

A local rep talked me into trying the Iwata LPH400 gun with the orange cap. The LPH400 can be used with 3 different air caps. Silver cap is most popular for clear, orange is their "ultimate base coat" cap, and they have a purple cap for shooting pearls and difficult metallic bases. (Blah, blah, blah, right?)

I do really like the LPH400 for base. It has a HUGE fan, its a soft spray, over spray is almost non existent, spray speed is what I would call moderate/deliberate. Which is nice for controlling metallic bases.

I wanted a dedicated clear gun and recently went with sata 5000 in the RP model. I found a deal on it, otherwise I wouldn't have purchased it.

I am thinking that the tekna guns are the same functionally but the prolite has a different coating making it easier to clean? I haven't used one but I've heard very good things about the tekna's. They look like a great value because I think you usually get multiple fluid tips and probably at least 2 air caps with most tekna packages.


Something clever here.

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I would suggest a 1.4 fluid tip with what ever gun you choose, unless it's a sata, then step down to a 1.3.

Sata prints 1.3 on the fluid tip but if you measure it, its actually a 1.5. Everybody else sizes their fluid nozzles as advertised, but the satas for some reason oversize their fluid nozzles. My "1.3" measures slightly over 1.5 mm.

That's why the new satas "seem to throw a lot of paint"

It's not air science or anything magical, the Germans are simply printing 1.3 on a 1.5 fluid tip. Lol


Something clever here.

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Dang, won't be shipping any packages up nort' for the Chevy cuz the local 8-track tape source dried up. grin

As always a very fine job Dave, your automotive art work shows it.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave
I would suggest a 1.4 fluid tip with what ever gun you choose, unless it's a sata, then step down to a 1.3.

Sata prints 1.3 on the fluid tip but if you measure it, its actually a 1.5. Everybody else sizes their fluid nozzles as advertised, but the satas for some reason oversize their fluid nozzles. My "1.3" measures slightly over 1.5 mm.

That's why the new satas "seem to throw a lot of paint"

It's not air science or anything magical, the Germans are simply printing 1.3 on a 1.5 fluid tip. Lol

Thanks Dave on the infor on what fluid tip to use, I'm going with the Tekna copper set 1.3 & 1.4 with cup for $407.00 at amazon I can't go wrong.
I'll be doing the auto painting in Arizona so that should be fun to try.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave


Originally Posted by Rooster7
Woo! Can't wait to see that baby done! That has a 327 in it correct?


It's not in the car right now but it is freshly rebuilt and ready to go back in (327)



Specs please.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave
I've got tons of photos, just havent had time to sort through and upload to photobucket. here are a couple higher quality snaps from today though.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Simply - GORGEOUS!!!


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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by northern_dave


Originally Posted by Rooster7
Woo! Can't wait to see that baby done! That has a 327 in it correct?


It's not in the car right now but it is freshly rebuilt and ready to go back in (327)



Specs please.


Oh you motor head you, lol.

We sent it to a shop in WI that specializes in factory rebuilds for classics. so, it's nothing tricky. It's over bored, (again) sitting @ + .40 now I believe. and the stock "double hump" heads have had hardened seats since the last rebuild in the 90's. (1.94" , not 2.02")

following the internal recipe for 300 HP 327, 10.5:1 comp, hyd cam, single 4 barrel, nothing too wild.


Something clever here.

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Originally Posted by Outbackandy
Originally Posted by northern_dave
I would suggest a 1.4 fluid tip with what ever gun you choose, unless it's a sata, then step down to a 1.3.

Sata prints 1.3 on the fluid tip but if you measure it, its actually a 1.5. Everybody else sizes their fluid nozzles as advertised, but the satas for some reason oversize their fluid nozzles. My "1.3" measures slightly over 1.5 mm.

That's why the new satas "seem to throw a lot of paint"

It's not air science or anything magical, the Germans are simply printing 1.3 on a 1.5 fluid tip. Lol

Thanks Dave on the infor on what fluid tip to use, I'm going with the Tekna copper set 1.3 & 1.4 with cup for $407.00 at amazon I can't go wrong.
I'll be doing the auto painting in Arizona so that should be fun to try.


Another big thing is air delivery to these new guns. I think your tekna will probably come with a regulator to attach at the gun inlet. I'm a big believer in running 100-150 psi right up to the gun, then regulate down to your desired pressure with the trigger pulled. A good regulator is the RTI MR1. it is the very same as Iwata AK 1R2 but the Iwata sells for about 15-20 dollars more.

Also run the Milton V type connections, they are the high flow ones. Everything else in my shop is the M style, but my paint guns are V style and my paint booth hose stays in my paint booth.

These guns will perform amazingly with basically full line pressure to the gun and stepping down the psi at the inlet. All of the new guns have larger air holes in the air cap, hvlp have the biggest, that is where this full line pressure really helps out, it still helps the RP's, the "compliant" and what ever other names they choose to give their tweener guns which are the "barely legal" guns. lol.

Besides sufficient air volume, the air hose will be hard to accidentally pinch off while spraying. Back when I used to regulate pressure at the booth wall, a lot of these guns call for air pressures ranging from 12 to 30 psi. That makes for a squishy air hose that is easy to accidentally pinch off. I've stepped on the hose before, knelt on it, I pinched the hose between my calf and thigh while kneeling to spray a rocker... That's bad, causes a gun spit. Full line pressure and you can step on that hose and it wont effect a thing.


Something clever here.

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That's awesome(even if it is a Chevy LOL)...love that color!!!


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Originally Posted by northern_dave
We sent it to a shop in WI that specializes in factory rebuilds for classics. so, it's nothing tricky. It's over bored, (again) sitting @ + .40 now I believe. and the stock "double hump" heads have had hardened seats since the last rebuild in the 90's. (1.94" , not 2.02")

following the internal recipe for 300 HP 327, 10.5:1 comp, hyd cam, single 4 barrel, nothing too wild.


Do you know the specs for the cam? I'm hoping it's not really a 327/300HP cam.

Which intake manifold?

Will this one get to breathe through headers? grin

I'm also a bit concerned about the compression ratio. If it actually cc's out at 10.5 with those iron heads, not just "these are 10.5:1 pistons", I don't think it'll get along with pump gas very well. That's especially true if the cam is as small as a stock 327/300 grind.

Last edited by mathman; 02/08/16.
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We have a build spec sheet around here somewhere. I've been to busy plowing snow this morning and now I have a little time to get some wet sanding in before running in to town to meet the wife for lunch. It's our 24th anniversary today.


Something clever here.

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