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Fellows, I agree with oregonhunter concerning speed. The novice should not even consider it when purchasing a bow. Speed does not kill, a well placed arrow does (archery experts, scroll down now).<P>From the novice hunter's point of view, my first reason for being wary of speed is this: You will find that when the moment of truth comes it is a VERY GOOD THING for your bow to be effortless to draw. This is MUCH more important than the trajectory advantage gained at long distances via heavy draw weights.<P>If you talk to any honest bowhunter who has taken a few critters, he/she will tell you first hand stories of not being able to draw the bow at the critical point. It dosen't matter if you can work up to the poundage at the practice range, or if Superhunter X uses a 90 lb. draw.<P>If you want to impress someone with the strength of your latissimus, go to a gym. Otherwise, you will be well served to shoot at 55 lbs or so -- this is an approximate number. This is very analagous to an amateur shooter being sold a 300RUM and developing a flinch, except that the new bow shooter WILL be able to do well in practice. It is during the hunt that he will pay the price.<P>I have paid the price myself while using a bow at a very un-impressive draw poundage! The experience is quite funny, but I have honed the ability to laugh at myself into an art form after much practice. It cost me a nice buck.<P>Don't worry, the low draw weights will kill your game stone dead when the arrow goes where it should.<P>I'm looking forward to the posts as we draw near to hunting season. Talus

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I couldn't agree more Talus, well said.

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I agree speed isn't the most important, I don't plan on fooling with overdraws on whatever I end up with. I also don't plan on any tournement shooting. Just the old foam target and deer!<P>I have been shooting for several years and am confident in my accuracy I guess silence is my number 1 concern and 60-70 pound pull is fine by me.<P>I think I'll check around for a shop with some Mathews bows set up and ready to shoot.<P>Thanks,<BR>Mike


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To each his own...but in my opinion along with several "pro's" that I am friends with, a big mistake.<P>There are exceptions to the rule, but by and large the bigger, heavier bows are MUCH better for first timer's like yourself. I'd put about half of the money you will spend on that Mathews right back in your pocket and get a nice middle of the road priced bow, which will still perform excellent.

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Oregonhunter- I'm not sold yet, but do want to try one out.<P>Compared to what I have currently the bottom line PSE and Hoyt bows seem nice and are light years ahead of my 15-17 year old bow!<P>Mike


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Mike, I agree totally. Go to your local shop and shoot every bow in the shop, THEN decide by what feels the best, regardless of the name on it. <P>I tell ya what though Mike, a few years ago I sold my ANCIENT Pierson "grey ghost", with wooden limbs and the works. I shot that bow straight as hell, granted it was slow, but I killed many an animal with that ol' boy. The speed is nice with my expensive little Hoyt, but I'm not sure I shoot it any straighter! ;-)<P>Good luck with your bow search.<P>Chad

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My 2 cents worth:<BR>Of the bows I have owned in my lifetime;<P>Browning<BR>Darton<BR>Golden Eagle<BR>Hoyt<BR>Mathews<P>the Mathews is my favorite, hands-down. Smoother, quieter, & faster. Everything a bowhunter wants, right? Good hunting!

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Ok you guys have peaked my interest in these bows. I just found used ones on the nert starting about 350 bucks for a 1 and half to 2 year old model. Not the MQ-32 you guys are gushing over? Whats importatnt? Specuial models etc.. How old a bow is still good etc..<P>Howe about this deal.<P>Mathews Ultra Max w/ Xtras<P>30"draw length, #50-60lb model maxes out at #65lbs. Trebark II camo, hunted with for 2 seasons, no 3D abuse!! In great shape, only a tiny scratch here or there. Includes.....Brand new NAP Quiktune 1000 rest(w/ Teflon "Fork Tamers"), Your choice of either 7" "Doinker Stabilizer or X-Ring Hydraulic model, PSE "RS-Glo" fiber optic machined aluminum sight, SIMS Limbsavers installed, Brand new package of SIMS "String Leeches", Tied in nock set and eliminator buttons. Great shooting bow!....very fast, quiet and smooth. Will IBO near 310fps. Price includes UPS shipping to the lower 48, No trades please. Will e-mail pics upon request.<P>Its 410 bucks ?? <P>Tex


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Tex, <BR> I've been waiting for someone with more experience with these bows to respond, however, as they hav'nt it would appear your stuck with my take;-). I would say that whether that bow is a deal or not depends on your experience as an archer. And of course the technical merits of the particular bow of which I am blissfully ignorant. What I have learned, however, is that your in money to find a good pro shop if you have more questions than answers. <P> I came real close on a number of occasions to buying a bow from Cabelas, Redhead, etc.. Even from my local Sports Authority which contrary to their name did not seem to be an authority on anything least of all bows. As hard to believe as that might be. <P> I picked up my MQ-32 with case, Scott release, 20+ Gold Tip carbon arrows, stabilizer, sight, and arrow rest for $450. This after being measured for my correct length of pull and finding out what I intended the bows usage for. From what I've read this is the reason Mathew's will not allow their bows to be sold by mail order. As the service from a local pro shop is almost impossible to beat over the phone or computer as the case may be. <P> I've bought rifles, scopes, and binoculars based on their reputation, however, I would not buy a Mathew's bow unless I knew exactly what I was looking for. Kind of like having a custom shotgun built to generic measurements. You might get lucky and wind up with a properly fitted gun or you might wind up with an over expensive door prop. In the end if your going to spend the money make sure your getting what you need and not what's on sale. fwiw, which probabely isn't much;-).<P>Regards, Matt.


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Ok here is the question for all you experienced hunters.......<P>I have the money to buy the best bow, the first time. Local shops and indoor ranges to practice. My in-laws are avid bow-hunters. One is in the record books I am told in Colorado for Black bear with a bow. <P>If I can afford it, why not buy a Mathews first ?? Based on Matts post I don't see one?? Down side seems to be cost. But if you take cost out of the equation, why not ??? <P>This mind set (get it right the first time) has worked well in every area other than those where tech. advances move so fast that this years product is outdated in 2 years? It seems to me, that a quiet, light weight, fast bow would work for me for enough years that this bow would be "outdated" about the time I am "allowed" to buy another? Am I confused?<P>Opinions please ???<P>Tex


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What Tex said!<P>Rick


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I picked up my new Q2 on Thursday 7-26. It took the proshop owner about 10 minutes to <BR>put on the sight, nocking point, loop, & adjust the rest. I was amazed at how well it shot with so little "tuning". <P>I am really anxious to spend some time getting confident with this bow & preparing myself for the Wi bow season. <P>I was amazed at how easy this bow was to set up & the harmonic dampers make it a very <BR>smooth shooter too. <P>The price is a bit steep but if you want to <BR>have a bow that you can spend your time shooting, GET THE MATHEWS!!! <BR> Good hunting, oulufinn


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Any more feedback here guys? I am not a accomplised bowhunter. I read Orygun hunters psots in which he seemed to thhink this was not a good bow to learn on and yet others here have described it in ways that make me think it might be the perfect starter bow. I am not looking for one with a heavy draw weight. Actually the opposite is true.<P>Want to hear others comemnts.<P>Tex


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Mathews makes several madels that are long and hevie in comparison to many of their bows. These may be most opropret for your experens. I have a PSE nova solo-cam, it isn't the fastes bow but it's all i need right now(i'm not all that experenced myself) Then there is the argument, why not get a rilly good bow that will be good when you get more experenced. I personly feel that a cheaper bow like mine, which is fine for hunting, it a good start. when you get better then you trade the old bow in & up-grade to what you feel you need then. This way you don't need to make one large investment at once.


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I kinda understand but..... Why do I need a longer heavier bow? Would someone explain please? Sounds like what I DON'T want in a bow. But I don't know Jack sh*t about bows either. Hey I'm honest anyway !!<P>I bought a old german weatherby 300 mag as my first B.G. rifle. I don't mind "used stuff" at all to cut price. Used Mathews versus new whatever... seems like no question to me?? <P>Waiting to hear WHY I need a cheaper bow to start. What advantages OTHER THAN PRICE??<P>Thanks for your patience.<P>Tex


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I would probably try to meet with them and shoot the bow if I were you! Than buy it!!<P>I went to one local shop today. They had PSE and Hoyt, but no Mathews because of some(Mathews) rule about not having competing distributors within 30 miles of each other(??) They showed me several nice bows and told me all about the various benefits and strengths of each one. I told them I had three requirements! Accurate(stays tuned),light, and quiet! They said all of the top of the line bows that are designed to these specs are good, but wouldn't and couldn't tell me which one was best. I think they know it is a personal preference for each and everyone. There sister shop in a nearby town has Mathews so I'll try to go check them out later. They said I could come shoot various bows when I have time. This is going to be one of those extended evaluations I think. Plus I have to save the money.<P>Mike


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Ready, if you can get a MQ32 for $500, all other questions are moot. I haven't shot the newer Mathews stuff and don't plan to. <P>Unless I get another bow for bowfishing (not likely), or my Mathews gets stolen or crushed, this will be the last bow I buy as long as I can draw a normal bow.<P>In a general sense, longer, heavier bows are easier to shoot than shorter, lighter ones. It's just like rifles.<P>So how many BR or tactical rifles do you see in the hunting woods? None. You know why. There are plenty of sporter weight rifles that shoot MOA, and the rest makes no difference in the field. <P>Then there's the quality and design difference. The short MQ 32 is easier to shoot than many long bows because it is better than they are.<P>Buddy, I wish you loads of fun pulling whatever string you choose. You won't be sorry if it's a Mathews, and you won't be looking to trade up in two years. If used MQ32s are available on the rack now (I can't imagine why anyone would sell one), then that's great for you.<P>I can tell from Matt's post that they are less costly now than when I had to order mine from the factory and wait a couple months for it (I'm a lefty archer, too). But I would do it again if I had to. And I am not a competitive archer and have no friends in the 'Mathews clique' that seems to be everywhere. Those guys know how to market!<P>Best of luck, Talus

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I got the MQ32 today. I went to the shop twice and tried out everything that looked decent. The MQ32 just felt great. It was kind of like the first time I rented a Sage fly rod after I had used a Fenwick for ten years. I came home sad and dejected from fishing. Wife says "Why the long face, you usually have a good time fishing" Cause now I gotta find some way to buy a fishing rod that is most of $500. That MQ32 felt soo much better to me than the good bow that was second best. I am a newby. It was too much money. I won't be looking to get what I really wanted in a year or two. I did have the money and did get what I thought was the best of all the bows I tried. Being able to try them out was one of the best things of all. I feel much better about my purchase than if I had just ordered one from somewhere. I had a friend give me a good Browning bow. It turned out it was 2 inches too long for me. Nice to have a good pro shop near. My mom told me once that "One reason wealthy people have so much money is that they buy good stuff the first time and don't have to buy whatever it is, twice." Good hunting with whatever you choose. "D"

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My'good' bow was stolen and it took me years to fine tune it exactly the way I wanted and about a $1,000 to get it there..then some POS rips it off. I wasn't about to drop another grand for a similar set up so I bought one recently off e-bay for $200, figured what the heck, something to shoot. It's an Xi and came completely set up, I took it to Silver Bullets house the other night and shot it for the second time ever and did a little fine tuning and am happy with the results. [img]images/icons/smile.gif" border="0[/img] Smokiiiiiiiiiiiin!<P>It isn't always about having the best equipment, it's about being able to use what you have.<P> [Linked Image] <P> [Linked Image]

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I loved Deltas answer. (and I have 3 sage rods and a beatiful ATH flyreel that is a work of art to be passed down to my children)<P>I understand what spike said also, and I know you Spike is currently on financial "restrictions" with new baby but....<P>I still have not heard any good reasons NOT to get a mathews except price. And that is not a big deal for me. I may buy a used bow first to cut costs but....<P>Anybody else want to join in this please.<P>Why not a Mathews for a beginner? EXCEPT PRICE.<P>Thanks Everyone for all your help here. <P>Tex


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