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Wow, cool stuff.

Besides that, it's fun to say "voo-doo".

lol.

plus it's still a cast cam so we won't have dist gear challenges. Should be able to run a regular ole factory spark slinger. We'll probably toss the points and condenser in the woods though, put a pertronix ring & pickup in there.


Something clever here.

GB4

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Oh yeah, other than lobe design it's a stock style cast iron hydraulic stick.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave

It's common for everybody to say C6, but the transmission guys tell me the C4 can be built to handle HP that the C6 used to be chosen for.



Correct. The C6 is a bullet-proof tranny but also a power-robbing SOB. I'd only use a C6 again in a 70ish driver or tow rig. ANYTHING performance would get a built C4 or better if needed. I've never actually wrecked a C6 (says a lot) but I can testify that they'll turn a strong engine into a turd in stock form.


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WHOO WHOO! You go Dave.


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Old cat turd!

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Looking good.

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I dropped the engine and trans off for rebuild. 351W and an FMX, both 1973.

I've instructed the builder to target a static 10:1 with his piston selection, heads are 60.4cc comb chambers. He's looking for direction on the cam, I've been looking at comp cams XE262H.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=877&sb=2

That's probably as wild as I care to go, We will be running a dual plane alum intake and prob 600-650 vac secondary 4 barrel, headers too, probably something mid length.

I like the lunati voodoo cams but I cover so many bases, being the body man, mechanic, painter etc. I want to buy a complete set including valve springs and I don't know that lunati offers it.

I'd like to run stock converter, this is a power assist brake car, weight is around 3000lbs, gears I believe are 3.23 (or possibly 3.5). 10:1 compression.

The stock cam for 1969 351M in Mach1 would have been ford #C9OZ-6250-A

[Linked Image]


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Amazing to me the level of knowledge you possess Dave. Cars are Greek to me.


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At first glance I thought you said "geek", which I totally agree with.

lol.

It's geeky.


Something clever here.

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Wish I'd known you were looking for a period correct Windsor, I've got the original 351 out of my 69 mach 1 that we took out back in '87. Just needs a rebuild and its got the original FMX with it.

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Originally Posted by Fireball2
Amazing to me the level of knowledge you possess Dave. Cars are Greek to me.
Ditto.. I'd still be scratching my head while looking at the car on the first day it arrived, askin' myself "what the hell do I do now?"

laugh laugh


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Originally Posted by jaytee
Wish I'd known you were looking for a period correct Windsor, I've got the original 351 out of my 69 mach 1 that we took out back in '87. Just needs a rebuild and its got the original FMX with it.


NOW you tell me??? lol!



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Hey Northern Dave -

My wife and I will be buying/inheriting her uncle's 1967 Ford Galaxy 500 2-dr hardtop 390-4bbl.

We're kinda wondering what we should do with it.

Here's the low-down:

He purchased it new when he got back from Vietnam. It's got 65,000 original miles. He's a bit of an odd duck and he never removed the plastic off the seats and never took the rubber bands off the seat belts in the back seat. It's never been in an accident and he drives it a few weekends every year. It's all original and sits in a little garage. Original paint, original everything.

We're purchasing it from his "estate" before medicare forces a sale and we're having some difficulty on valuation. It's not a restored car, just an all-original decently maintained classic. All the valuation I can find are based upon how it rates as a "show car".

I'm thinking to just buff out the paint, shine up the chrome, clean up the engine and interior and keep her as an original -- thoughts?

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by WyColoCowboy; 04/28/16.


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Dooood! I love me a big long galaxie! The problem with them is they're really not worth much unless you have a 427 or something. That's a cream puff you have there it looks like.

If I was selling it, I'd ask $10k

If I was buying it, I'd offer $7k


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Very cool.

Yeah, I'd do the same. A major cleaning/detailing. I'd run OEM hub caps, thin white walls, I'd invest in a new set of those fingerhut type clear plastic seat covers too.

I'd replace what ever seals and gaskets that have shrunk or cracked. Drain fluids from the back to the front, refresh with new. Including the brakes which may or may not need some attention. These old wheel cylinder drum brakes like a little action now and then to keep things working well.

You may just want to get 4 chunks of 1/4" hose about 15" long and 4 empty containers, ice cream buckets, empty coffee cans, what ever. Take the lid off the master, top it off then crack the bleeders. slip the hoses over the bleeders and let them drain into the containers. just keep adding to the master reservoir so it doesn't go empty.

Get rid of that old brown fluid.

Try to run premium fuel in it, avoid ethanol as much as you can.

Be careful buffing the paint. If you bring it to a detailer or a body shop, ask if they are going to take film thickness measurements before they start buffing/polishing. Even if they lie to you or shake their head yes without even knowing what a film thickness gauge is.... It at least clues them in as to how particular you are.

67 fast back is a nice body style. A subtle departure from 66 with a slicker roof line, some muscle bulge to the quarters and it's still got stacked headlights. (which is good)

They can look very nice with a sporty set of wheels and tires too, but there is always time for that in the future.

I'd hold hard to that preservation line if I were you.

Price wise, I can't disagree with Tom. Give or take based on details and condition.

Something you might find interesting is that 67 was a big step forward in safety advancements. Collapsible steering columns, better belts, that big goofy padded center in the steering wheel... neat stuff.


Something clever here.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave
Very cool.

Yeah, I'd do the same. A major cleaning/detailing. I'd run OEM hub caps, thin white walls, I'd invest in a new set of those fingerhut type clear plastic seat covers too.

I'd replace what ever seals and gaskets that have shrunk or cracked. Drain fluids from the back to the front, refresh with new. Including the brakes which may or may not need some attention. These old wheel cylinder drum brakes like a little action now and then to keep things working well.

You may just want to get 4 chunks of 1/4" hose about 15" long and 4 empty containers, ice cream buckets, empty coffee cans, what ever. Take the lid off the master, top it off then crack the bleeders. slip the hoses over the bleeders and let them drain into the containers. just keep adding to the master reservoir so it doesn't go empty.

Get rid of that old brown fluid.

Try to run premium fuel in it, avoid ethanol as much as you can.

Be careful buffing the paint. If you bring it to a detailer or a body shop, ask if they are going to take film thickness measurements before they start buffing/polishing. Even if they lie to you or shake their head yes without even knowing what a film thickness gauge is.... It at least clues them in as to how particular you are.

67 fast back is a nice body style. A subtle departure from 66 with a slicker roof line, some muscle bulge to the quarters and it's still got stacked headlights. (which is good)

They can look very nice with a sporty set of wheels and tires too, but there is always time for that in the future.

I'd hold hard to that preservation line if I were you.

Price wise, I can't disagree with Tom. Give or take based on details and condition.

Something you might find interesting is that 67 was a big step forward in safety advancements. Collapsible steering columns, better belts, that big goofy padded center in the steering wheel... neat stuff.


Sleepers are the way to go. I am a Ford man from way back and have always built sleepers. The last one I built was a 64 2 door fairlane with a Windsor and a set of Ford GT heads from Ford Factory performance themselves. I went mild on the Cam Grind just as this gentleman is looking at and I'll tell you what...this thing was FAST!

Little known secret to share...contact Ford and ask about what they have stashed away in the way of Factory Designed Performance Parts for the Engine you are putting together. You may be very very surprised!


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If the engine hasn't run in a good while I'd pull it and do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning. All new gaskets, seals, yadda yadda.

Same with the carb.

I'd be tempted to replace the valve springs too.

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If you want to get top dollar for that car do not touch it other than a simple wash job. Advertise it well and let NO ONE drive it. It will surprise you.

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Originally Posted by mathman
If the engine hasn't run in a good while I'd pull it and do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning. All new gaskets, seals, yadda yadda.

Same with the carb.

I'd be tempted to replace the valve springs too.


Pay attention! It gets driven annually! lol

Now solve my cam shaft dilemma.

grin


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Originally Posted by mathman
If the engine hasn't run in a good while I'd pull it and do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning. All new gaskets, seals, yadda yadda.

Same with the carb.

I'd be tempted to replace the valve springs too.


WHAT! no cam recommendation?

You're slipping!


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Originally Posted by northern_dave
Originally Posted by mathman
If the engine hasn't run in a good while I'd pull it and do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning. All new gaskets, seals, yadda yadda.

Same with the carb.

I'd be tempted to replace the valve springs too.


Pay attention! It gets driven annually! lol

Now solve my cam shaft dilemma.

grin


Seriously Dave...Make a call to Ford and see what they have sitting as overstock in their inventory of "Factory Performance" parts from years back. They are probably holding onto some treasures. Maybe even a Factory Roller Cam, Roller Lifter and Roller Rocker/Spring set up for your Windsor.

They have warehouses full of this stuff from way back when in the 60's 70's and would love to make a deal to get rid of some of it. smile


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