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What about the Murphy's Oil Soap? Seems like it would be safe used with a lightly dampened rag. I suppose the best way to know for sure would be to try it on a sample with some different gun stock finishes to be sure though.

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Yep. Caution is the better part of valor.


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I might be tempted to use acetone on a black greasy army rifle stock that went through two world wars and had absolutely no redeeming value. Beyond that, never, and I go through acetone in my shop like sh*t through a goose for a wide range of applications. It'll disrupt many a finish, with the possible exception of the horrid clear armor Browning used/uses, and I wouldn't want to experiment on mine to boot. Acetone was used forever as an active ingredient in paint strippers, and may still be for all I know. I do know it is a wonderful chemical for softening varnish before scraping it off.

Cleaning an old oil finished stock with Scotchbrite pads and acetone may well be a viable protocol, but only if further re-finishing afterward is in the plan. Not a good idea IMO if the goal is a simple cleanup of accumulated grime and schmeck. And if you do that, for god's sake wear nitrile gloves (I double glove) whenever you mess with acetone. Not many nastier carcinogens are to be found out there.


No, wait! Gunwhizzer says it is okay!


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I might be tempted to use acetone on a black greasy army rifle stock that went through two world wars and had absolutely no redeeming value. Beyond that, never, and I go through acetone in my shop like sh*t through a goose for a wide range of applications. It'll disrupt many a finish, with the possible exception of the horrid clear armor Browning used/uses, and I wouldn't want to experiment on mine to boot. Acetone was used forever as an active ingredient in paint strippers, and may still be for all I know. I do know it is a wonderful chemical for softening varnish before scraping it off.

Cleaning an old oil finished stock with Scotchbrite pads and acetone may well be a viable protocol, but only if further re-finishing afterward is in the plan. Not a good idea IMO if the goal is a simple cleanup of accumulated grime and schmeck. And if you do that, for god's sake wear nitrile gloves (I double glove) whenever you mess with acetone. Not many nastier carcinogens are to be found out there.


Hello gnoahhh, a mate of mine that cleans an awful lot of old badly oiled/saturated stocks generally immerses them in a pipe full of the paint thinners the car paint shops use, he then fishes them out and lets dry before refinishing.

I cannot tell you it is perfect, but he has been doing it for a lot of years and it does yield good results for him.


These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
What about the Murphy's Oil Soap? Seems like it would be safe used with a lightly dampened rag. I suppose the best way to know for sure would be to try it on a sample with some different gun stock finishes to be sure though.


Murphy's Oil Soap used aggressively will remove the finish on a pre-64 M70. Don't make me admit why I know this! Never tried gently.

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Originally Posted by Classic270
Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
What about the Murphy's Oil Soap? Seems like it would be safe used with a lightly dampened rag. I suppose the best way to know for sure would be to try it on a sample with some different gun stock finishes to be sure though.


Murphy's Oil Soap used aggressively will remove the finish on a pre-64 M70. Don't make me admit why I know this! Never tried gently.

I have used Murphy's Oil Soap on one stock. It was on a Saiga 308 wood stocked sporter. It had some very light white flecks of paint or something on the cheek piece. I lightly scraped some off with my thumbnail, but to avoid chipping the finish, I used water mixed with Murphy's Oil Soap on a lightly dampened rag and gently rubbed them off. Each time after wiping some, I'd wipe the stock dry to check the progress. The goal was to work short, lightly damp sessions without allowing the stock to soak too much. Final session was a damp rag with water only to rinse and then wipe dry. Worked great. Now the Saiga wasn't an heirloom grade finish, but it actually wasn't a bad looking stock either. No harm was done to the finish in that sample of one.

Yeah, aggressive might be bad even with plain old water grin.

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