|
|
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11,053
Campfire Outfitter
|
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11,053 |
The traditional, non-bubba way to do a wood stock is to drill out the old hole and glue in a hardwood rod... The reason this and toothpicks are a poor fix is that you wind up with threads in end grain. Filled epoxy is better. For later removal apply heat.
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,965
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,965 |
Just my method agreeing with others, for both composite and wood:
1) I clean the sling swivel screw studs and screw holes in the stock thoroughly with lacquer thinner being careful not to involve the surface finish.
2) If POSSIBLE, I take a very small drill - like a 1/16" - and drill a hole or side-channel about 1/4" deep off to an angle being careful not to disfigure the hole opening on the stock. You do not want to eliminate the remaining existing female screw threads.
3) Apply a good release agent to the screw studs.
4) Using a wide piece of tape cover the holes on the stock and carefully gut away an opening in the tape.
5) Using a good, high strength epoxy, fill the holes almost full using a toothpick to force it into all areas of the holes including the new side channel you drilled.
6) Slowly insert and screw in the screw studs, so that as excess epoxy oozes out, you can clean it up - I use Q-tips. When the base of the screw stud is close to being flush with the stock surface, ENSURE THAT YOU STOP WITH THE STUD HOLE ALIGNED IN THE DESIRED POSITION.
7) Let cure completely as per the directions of your particular epoxy. Do NOT mess with it before hand. You are better off to give it excess time.
8) Very carefully unscrew and remove the studs and clean to remove all the release agent.
9) Using a Q-tip clean the screw hole to remove any release agent residue. Use fresh Q-tips to soak up any thinner and dry out the screw hole. Allow ten minutes evaporation to be safe. I do NOT use compressed air as it can force thinner under the tape and on to the stock finish.
10) Remove the tape and reinsert the screws. You should not need any Lock-Tight or any other type of thread lock.
Hope this helps - it has served me well for both types of stocks.
AKA The P-Man If you cherish your memories with kids, be a good role model . . . . so the RIGHT memories of you mean something to them.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,324 Likes: 9
Campfire Kahuna
|
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,324 Likes: 9 |
Some careful gentlemen here. Interesting read.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
LOL
|
|
|
|
683 members (01Foreman400, 160user, 16gage, 12344mag, 10ring1, 16penny, 65 invisible),
3,016
guests, and
1,367
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums81
Topics1,192,617
Posts18,492,642
Members73,972
|
Most Online11,491 Jul 7th, 2023
|
|
|
|
|