Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Help me diagnose my car stalling

It does have a MAF and I cleaned it, it did not appear to be dirty.

OK, good !

Put sea foam in it

Got it off the campfire here...

but started with my mower engines having issue with the crap ethanol we get....

started adding 5% diesel fuel to it and that has eliminated the problems ethanol breaking down causes...

have also been using it in my vehicles....

throw a $1.50 to $2.00 worth of diesel in each tank I pick up...

the diesel fuel retards the flame, so essential ups the octane, but diesel also has additives to combat and absorb water in the fuel... which is a present ethanol gives us..

the 5% diesel seems to absorb any water which ethanol gives ya.... certainly worked in the mower motors, as that was the usual problems...

also to see if there is a fuel issue, over at the college, we usually put an unlit propane torch down the intake... if there is a spark, the engine will run.... that's how we eliminate if it is a fuel problem from the tank to the intake...seems to work pretty darn well....

seafoam is ethanol/alcohol based...

Would like to know what the fix is when you get it running. Thanks.

Put a bottle of alcohol in the gas tank sounds like water in the fuel or frozen fuel line filter

Many cars are designed to start momentarily then quit if the chip doesn't work. Some keys have batteries, too (like my Ram). If that's the case and the battery's dead, it will start momentarily then quit.

I won't be able to install the new ignition coil until this evening. This car just has old fashion keys.

Ralph,

Could be numerous things.

MAF can be bad and engine will still start.

One bad cylinder coil, engine should start & run with misfire.

Cold (under 20F) could cause frozen fuel line and no start condition. Once temp reaches 30'sF engine should start.

Check these simple things in this order (from my memory):

#1)Are you getting any OBD codes? If yes, tell me what they read.

#2) Is there spark at each coil (all 4). Pull each coil one at a time. Ground end with insulated screwdriver as someone cranks engine for 3 seconds each. Spark must be blue & jump 1" to ground.

#3) Is there pulsating juice to each injector connector? Remove each injector wire one at a time & re-install after each test. Check + wire with grounded test lamp while someone cranks engine for 3 secs each. You should see bright flashing test light on each injector.

#4) Is there fuel pressure at the injector rail? Best to do with a gauge hooked up. Should read about 40 lbs and hold for 5 minutes.

If you follow these simple steps, you can begin to diagnose your problem. Should not take you more than 1/2 hr total to do these 4 simple steps.

Post your results and I'll try to check back.

-Ken

Careful with the Seafoam, don't use more than the recommended dosage.

If overdosed it can/will break gunk loose from your fuel tank walls and REALLY cause problems. Been there done that with a motorhome......

The only code I got was P1315, going to put a new ignition coil on it this evening. It changed to p1310 when I swapped it with the #3 coil.

But I wondered too why it wouldn't start with a misfire with just one bad ignition coil.

Computers...

Should still start with a bad coil.

-Ken

The new coil did the trick. Fired right up. Took it for a 20 minute drive and ran great.

Congrats!!!!

Woohoo

I love a happy ending!