Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Husqvarna rifles - anyone hunt with them?

I've had three of them in .30-06. I'm done with them because of the recoil. If I ever run across a Husky .243 I'll bite.

Ive had 5 or so, they are prone to stock cracking around the tang if there is not sufficient relief. They are of very high quality, particularly the barrels. Every one Ive owned was a shooter. I always sought the earlier models with steel bottom metal. The weakness as others have mentioned is the ejector/bolt stop. It is tensioned by a flat spring, the tension and fit of this spring is critical to proper function.

I sold a 30/06 recently because I was bored with it. It was number3 or 4 and I love them. I presently have a custom 7x57 built on a 1640 action and it is very good. None of mine have been dogs. Those built in the 98 large ring action are easier to find stocks and parts for. I did have an extractor issue on one because people have had the 1640 extractors modified to function like a push feed instead of CRF as they were designed. Dumb. But my smith did a slight modification on a 96 Mauser claw extractor and it runs perfectly. Just let it feed from the mag box like it should. They're smooth and strong. Excellent barrels as noted. They tend to be great handling rifles.

tag

They are great rifles but no more of them in .30-06 for me.

I have a great fondness for Husqvarna rifles. At one time I had collected all of the commercial models, but when I lost my job because of health reasons I sold the collection which kept my family and I in food for a year.
I've hunted Husky's for a number years and can't think of a finer hunting rifle made for just that. I still own 3 plus a Zoli.

I currently have 24 Husqvarna 1600 and 1900 series rifles:

FFV 1900 x3, 30-06.
S&W A1900 x2, 22-250 and 270.
S&W C1900 x2, 256 Newton and 338-06.
S&W D1600 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.
S&W D1900 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.
S&W E1600 x5, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06x2.
S&W E1900 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.

I think that Husqvarna nailed the mannlicher stocked configuration with a nearly perfect balanced rifle that points like you'd want a light upland game shotgun to point.

Out of curiosity,

Which is the better action a 1640 or a Pre-64 to build a 9.3

I guess that it would depend on which action you prefer.

The 1640 donor would probably be a little lighter, have alloy bottom metal, and be less expensive than a pre-'64 Model 70 donor. Simpson, LTD, in Galesburg, IL, is probably the biggest importer of used Husqvarna sporting rifle and may have a rifle with a good HVA action, but a poor/fair barrel and/or stock, that could be purchased for a better than average price.

My 9.3x62 has a Lothar Walther barrel on an Interarms Mark X with a mannlicher stock.

i have read about the stock cracking at the tang. my gun looks almost new but the wood is from 59 how do I make sure it never cracks? I have bedded many actions but what do I do on this particular stock configuration? any and all help will be appreciated.

Relieve it at the tang a hair so that the wood isn't right up against the tang. Sweet rifle. In my infinite wisdom I sold one chambered in 270 several years ago.

260 Rem has hit the high points pretty well. I would also look at a commercial FN action, i. e. JC Higgins model 50, etc. I have a serious soft spot for them.

You are so right. A mannlicher stocked 1640 in 308 was my introduction to Husqvarna. Boy I miss that rifle.

IIRC, a 1640 action with steel bottom metal/tg is 43 ounces and the alloy bottom metal makes them 40 ounces(but has a reputation of being a bit fragile at times if stressed). A fwt pre 64 action is right at about 43 ounces.
I am a big husqvarna fan but their stock trigger typically is pretty bad. If you can get one with an adjustable trigger you are good to go though. The stock trigger is a bit of a deal killer for me. FWIW, for myself, of the two actions, a pre 64 fwt action would be the action of choice on a build (primarily due to the trigger and safety).

I agree with you on the Husqvarna triggers. When I went through a "hunt everything with a S&W firearm" period, I rebarreled a pair of S&W 1900 series C's to 256 Newton and 338-06. If I'd been doing a metric pair, I probably would have used the same donors in 7x57 and 9.3x62. Later on, when I put together a metric pair to shoot plains game with, I did them as Interarms Mark X mannlichers in 7x57 and 9.3x62.

You can also bed the lug area to minimize any set back.

Agree, the better trigger, safety, bolt stop and ejector makes me prefer the Pre-64.

What do you find objectionable about the HVA's bolt stop and ejector?

I understand about the trigger and safety, since the safety doesn't block the firing pin, but can't seen any particular problems with either the bolt stop or ejector.

OK, but I just have to ask why?
Paul B.

Tom the tang is not right up against the wood, it has a gap in the back of the tang area. I am thinking about glassing behind the recoil lug and let it go at that. I hate to mess with it, it shoots dime size groups with my loads. but since I heard about the cracking I haven't shot it. I want to take care of a problem before it is to late. I had a h&r ultra rifle with a sako action that cracked wide open while I was shooting it. it made me sick, I repaired it but I let it go on down the road. I now have two more a model 301 and a model 700 they are beauties.