Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Husqvarna rifles - anyone hunt with them?

I stumbled across Husqvarna bolt actions over the weekend and am intrigued.

Does anyone hunt with them here? From all accounts they are a very solid, well built, and reliable action.

I live about 1.5 hours from the chief importer here in Canada so I can see adding some to my gun cabinet for sure. I really like Finnish/Swedish rifles and Euopean calibers in general.

I have a couple, a '61 Crown Grade .358 Norma Magnum and a '40s vintage 46A 9.3x57. The .358 is one of my all time favorite rifles.

I have a 1971 Crown grade model 9000 270. Silky smooth action. The gun is an absolute tack driver. My dad passed it down to me. When compared to Remington or Winchester it outshines them both. You won't be disappointed when you get yours.

I have three of the old HVA small ring actions and have owned half a dozen of the large ring rifles built on the FN actions and every one has shot great.

They are perhaps my favorite hunting rifle:

Model 456 (1600H)


Model 1640


Model 1951 (640)

My favorite rifle is a 640 in a Basner stock in 30-06. The barrel is much more svelte than most modern rifles and it makes a nice light and handy rifle.

NICE...

I like those rifles a lot. They tend to be very accuate.

Thru the Hawkeye borescope, HVA bores look like custom barrels, no machine marks, etc.

I've posted this before: http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/8948791/1

DF

I have 4. It's hard to choose a favorite.

1640 in 30-06. Maybe my favorite it's so slick.

640 in 8x57 on FN action. Used to be my favorite until I got the 1640. Has a fat Beach stock, but is very accurate.

46 in 9.3x57 Really handy and light. Much thump.

46 in re-barreled to 257 Roberts with a 21" barrel. Looks longer. Almost identical to the 9.3. I can switch back and forth and it feels the same.

They're superb. Buy while they're still cheap.


Okie John

I had one, nice shooter, I wish I hadn't sold it.

I've had four.

Mine is my go to 30/06. It is a Husqvarna action I believe built into a rifle by High Standard. This is marked, more than prominently, in 1/4 inch high letters on the barrel. It has an american looking stock that has no checkering but is nice plain grain walnut. It is probably the ugliest rifle I own and shoots into one inch with everything I've tried. I usually fire one shot to check the zero at the first of each year and it is good to go no matter the weather. Very easy to hunt with, if no one is looking.

I like them. They are a poster child for Swedish quality.

My spare rifle/loaner is a S&W C in 30-06 built on an 8000/9000 series actions.

I really like to hunt with my Husqvarna 30/06. It is fairly light for its size and has demonstrated an ability to retain its zero year after year. It easily shoots between an inch and an inch and a half with 165 gr bullets and that load suits anything I might hunt with this rifle. While I might change loads, scopes, stocks and barrels on other rifles I own, my Husqvarna stays set up the same year after year. I have a good quantity of ammo that it performs well with and it is always a rifle that is ready to go.

On top of all that, I just like the way it looks.

Well I know everyone gets tired of seeing this pic, but it's my favorite. So here it is again! My 2010 bull and Husqvarna 146 I rechambered to
9.3 x 62. Shot a nilgai cow with it too, this past December.



I do like my 2 model 146's!!!

I'm still not tired of seeing that pic!

I've got one as well. Haven't hunted it yet but it's in the works.


It is a great handling rifle and as others have said are a lot less expensive than a bunch of budget rifles but a whole lot more quality than a lot of upper end BG rifles being sold today.

I always thought that would be a heck of a pig rifle.

I have been looking at a S&W A in 22-250, I think its the same as a 9000. It's not a bad price. Would parts be hard to find if needed?
I don't need it, but it looks like it would be great for coyotes. What do you guys think?

They are!!!!!



Ok, it's not a 46 but a 146 in 9.3x57. Still a good hog thumper! Deer too!!!

Cocking piece, firing pin, firing pin spring, bolt shroud lock, bolt shroud spring, magazine follower, and magazine spring are all the same as any Mauser 98. The Bolt Shroud will interchange with any 98 Mauser but, the Husky comes with the Commercial FN style without safety.

Triggers are unique though people have used/modified Mauser 98 Timney triggers. Timney used to make one for Huskys under the importer "Tradewinds" name, but discontinued them decades ago.

Barrels are threaded the same as small ring pre-98 Mauser, same as Swedish 95/96/38.
Mauser 98 stocks can be adapted.

xxxx, trigger guard, floorplate are Husqvarna unique and hard to come by.

Edit: The 1600 series rifles like 1640, 1900, use 3/8" dovetail sights. Lyman/Marble will work.

What model is that?

Outstanding!!!

If it is a 9000 series, the action is the newer 1900 push feed action. Parts for those are nearly impossible to find, from my understanding.

My Husky is a S&W branded 30.06. It is super light and has a slick action that is comparable to my Krag. It had a really awful finish on the stock when I got it that could only be described as a monkey-schmidt yellow color. After several attempts to strip the shiny finish with no luck, I got a buddy to try it. He not only got the old finish off, he refinished the wood with the stuff they used to finish Garands with....it turned out a much more acceptable reddish color. The wood is something called 'arctic birch' according to a Husky guru, and I think this finish is probably as good as could be expected.

I finally took a deer with it two months ago, a nice little 6 point. The 30.06 got the expected results. BTW, the first group I fired with it was about a half inch CTC.


Before:





After:

Does anyone still makes parts for these actions should a part break or need replacement?

Or as a previous poster said, do parts for other Mauser actions fit as a rule?

The FN actions and 1640 actions are serviceable as explained earlier. The later 1900 actions are, from what I've heard, not (made in the late 60s and early 70s). The 1900 action is pictured in Hook's post. The 1640 action is pictured in Kingston's post.

Not yet but I'll let you know next season.

what I was looking at is like the Hook has.
And what little I have looked, I can't find parts. I think I will pass on it.

I can read what I type 3 times before I send it and still miss a mistake.

I have a S&W A with an 8000 series action in 22-250. It is accurate, but has a 1-14" ROT, so heavier bullets aren't a viable option.

I believe it's a 1640 Standard non-export model. It's chambered in 30-06. It's a more recent Simpson import.

I remember the distinctive figure on the left of the butt.
Don't tell everyone where to go. The good ones sell too fast now!!!!

This rifle was bought on GB a few years ago. I paid dearly for it. It was particularly clean and complete. I believe the front sight hood is original. I'm in constant fear of loosing it while afield. I added NOS Tradewinds QR mounts and the little Leupold.

I remember having to fabricate/rebuild one of those non 98 Mauser, push down, bolt stop-releases once on a customers rifle. Apparently the bolt lug, thru use, finally sheared off the old stop. We looked everywhere for a replacement then and could not locate one.

Kinda soured me on that model. Anyone else seen this happen? Curious?

It's a nice clean one alright! Those sight hoods are almost impossible to find.




I've read of others having them break so I am very careful of mine. It's seems a little rinky-dink considering the rest of the rifle. They are impossible to find too. I guess we have to weigh the impossibility of getting parts against our desire to have that svelte rifle.

Here's a website with a list of all models of Husqvarna.
http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xml

And here is a page of serial numbers and year of production.
http://www.skydevaaben.com/hvasno/info.xml

There is a very good forum moderated by one of the world's experts on Husqvarna rifles. I think it's forbidden to post the link, but the moderator is SBVHA. He can answer any question you may have.

If I could stumble across a Mannlicher 9.3x57 it would buy it immediately

IIRC, SBVHA passed last year.

I have two based on the small ring mauser action,a mannlicher carbine,and a lightweight with the schnabel stock. Both are in 30-06.

They both shoot great,the one in the schnabel stock will shoot well under moa with federal blue box 150 grain ammo.

I think they are the full equal of the pre-64 Model 70 featherweight and the Browning FN Safari in terms of quality,and they are lighter than either.

I had a mannlicher type in 308 and my cousin had one of the schnabel guns in 270. They were fine rifles as well.

Steve Bruns, aka SBHVA passed away in September 2012. He is missed!

Oh, I had forgotten. A great loss to Swede aficionados.
Dutchman and Baribal are still active. Dutchman's House of Kalina website is a learning experience on Military Swedes.

Is there anyone on this thread that modified a Husky 46 in such a way that they removed the sights and no longer have need of them?

PM sent.

So, is the difference between the 46 and 146 that the 46 is on the M96 action and the 146 is on the M98?

Yes.

Thanks. I know this is an old beat-up question, but will the M96 action handle the same pressure as the M98? I hear/read pros and cons on both sides. I know the 6.5x55 was standard in the M96 but I also know that it wasn't originally loaded to its full (i.e., modern) potential.

Thanks again.

Then, as you probably know, the answer still remains controversial.

The M96 action was chambered in .30-06 by Husqvarna. Kimber (Oregon) rebarreled/sporterized military M96 rifles to .243W and .308W. I've not heard of any reports of action failures by these rifles. IMO, this suggests the M96 action is sufficiently robust.

Another data point attesting to the strength of the M96 action is a letter to the editor of Handloader magazine from the head ballistician at Norma. He reported an inadvertent shooting of a overloaded ammo in their std test action which are/were built on M96 actions. IIRC, the pressure was in excess of 80K PSI. With the exception of heavy bolt lift, there was no detectable issues.

What is clear is that the M98 has design features that protect the shooter better from gas and particle blowback in the event of primer/case failure than the does the M96. This issue can be mitigated, in part, by replacing the standard M96 bolt shroud with an aftermarket shroud that has a M98 style gas flange.

Brownells/Sinclair use to offer aftermarket shrouds for the m96 but have since discontinued them.

Thanks. I wasn't aware of these two facts. The reason I asked is that I'm wondering if it is possible to rechamber a 9.3x57 M46 to 9.3x62. If HVA was rechambering to .30-06, then I assume the answer is yes.

Thanks again.

A member of 24hrCF from Sweden has posted that it is not uncommon to find M46 that have been rechambered to 9.3x62 in Sweden. So the answer is yes.

If you handload, you may find less reason to rechamber to x62. Factory x57 is loaded at pressures significantly less than 6.5x55 and 8mm Mauser pressures. Both were chambered in M96 actioned rifles.

In my M46, it is pretty easy to get 2400 FPS with 250gr Noslers.

Should probably note that my M46 is fitted with a M98 style bolt shroud.

Good to know. Thanks.

I have repurposed at least a dozen Husqvarna built M38 military actions and Husqvarna strengthened SR 640 actions, with several rebarreled for cartridges that operate a higher standard pressures than the 6.5x55. I ALWAYS do these three (3) things when building on a SR pre-1898 style Swedish Mauser action:

1. Replace the bolt shroud with a commercial style bolt should that has a larger gas shield.
2. Replace the trigger with a Bold or Timney unit with a side-safety.
3. Install a Dayton-Traister cock-on-opening kit.

The 1600 series HVA and 1900 series actions are strong, modern, actions that can (IMO) be rebarreled/rechambered for any cartridge that will fit in the magazine and fit the bolt face.

The 1600 and 1900 series rifles that I have are mostly original/collectible rifles, with the exception of a pair of 1900 series S&W Cs that came to me as 30-06s and have been rebarreled in 256 Newton and 338-06.

That's helpful information as well. Thanks!

The Husqvarna M46AN was made in 9,3x62. The 649 was made in 9,3x62 on the "strengthened" 96 actions.

My JC Higgins 51-L in 308 with first blood after I got it. Just under 7 1/2 lbs as shown.


HVA action, barreled and stocked by High Standard for Sears. The recoil mortise was broken out and the tang cracked. A couple cross pins and a healthy amount of accraglass put it back in operation.
Before the stock work.

This is the second of two 30-06 FS HVA rifles I've owned. The first was a S&W branded one. This is HVA branded and is nicer finished than the S&W rifle. Both shot well and while I have carried them while hunting, never shot any game with them. Sold the S&W a few years ago and would like to sell this one if some one is looking for one. PM me if interested.

i love my full stock mannlicher in 30-06 it has a vintage ted Williams 3x9 I love the slim profile of the scope and the sleekness of the whole rig. the nearest I can tell it was made in 59

I have several....only a half tick behind a mod 70..

Let me know when you get tired of that thing....

I've had three of them in .30-06. I'm done with them because of the recoil. If I ever run across a Husky .243 I'll bite.

Ive had 5 or so, they are prone to stock cracking around the tang if there is not sufficient relief. They are of very high quality, particularly the barrels. Every one Ive owned was a shooter. I always sought the earlier models with steel bottom metal. The weakness as others have mentioned is the ejector/bolt stop. It is tensioned by a flat spring, the tension and fit of this spring is critical to proper function.

I sold a 30/06 recently because I was bored with it. It was number3 or 4 and I love them. I presently have a custom 7x57 built on a 1640 action and it is very good. None of mine have been dogs. Those built in the 98 large ring action are easier to find stocks and parts for. I did have an extractor issue on one because people have had the 1640 extractors modified to function like a push feed instead of CRF as they were designed. Dumb. But my smith did a slight modification on a 96 Mauser claw extractor and it runs perfectly. Just let it feed from the mag box like it should. They're smooth and strong. Excellent barrels as noted. They tend to be great handling rifles.

tag

They are great rifles but no more of them in .30-06 for me.

I have a great fondness for Husqvarna rifles. At one time I had collected all of the commercial models, but when I lost my job because of health reasons I sold the collection which kept my family and I in food for a year.
I've hunted Husky's for a number years and can't think of a finer hunting rifle made for just that. I still own 3 plus a Zoli.

I currently have 24 Husqvarna 1600 and 1900 series rifles:

FFV 1900 x3, 30-06.
S&W A1900 x2, 22-250 and 270.
S&W C1900 x2, 256 Newton and 338-06.
S&W D1600 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.
S&W D1900 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.
S&W E1600 x5, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06x2.
S&W E1900 x4, 243, 270, 308, and 30-06.

I think that Husqvarna nailed the mannlicher stocked configuration with a nearly perfect balanced rifle that points like you'd want a light upland game shotgun to point.

Out of curiosity,

Which is the better action a 1640 or a Pre-64 to build a 9.3

I guess that it would depend on which action you prefer.

The 1640 donor would probably be a little lighter, have alloy bottom metal, and be less expensive than a pre-'64 Model 70 donor. Simpson, LTD, in Galesburg, IL, is probably the biggest importer of used Husqvarna sporting rifle and may have a rifle with a good HVA action, but a poor/fair barrel and/or stock, that could be purchased for a better than average price.

My 9.3x62 has a Lothar Walther barrel on an Interarms Mark X with a mannlicher stock.

i have read about the stock cracking at the tang. my gun looks almost new but the wood is from 59 how do I make sure it never cracks? I have bedded many actions but what do I do on this particular stock configuration? any and all help will be appreciated.

Relieve it at the tang a hair so that the wood isn't right up against the tang. Sweet rifle. In my infinite wisdom I sold one chambered in 270 several years ago.

260 Rem has hit the high points pretty well. I would also look at a commercial FN action, i. e. JC Higgins model 50, etc. I have a serious soft spot for them.

You are so right. A mannlicher stocked 1640 in 308 was my introduction to Husqvarna. Boy I miss that rifle.

IIRC, a 1640 action with steel bottom metal/tg is 43 ounces and the alloy bottom metal makes them 40 ounces(but has a reputation of being a bit fragile at times if stressed). A fwt pre 64 action is right at about 43 ounces.
I am a big husqvarna fan but their stock trigger typically is pretty bad. If you can get one with an adjustable trigger you are good to go though. The stock trigger is a bit of a deal killer for me. FWIW, for myself, of the two actions, a pre 64 fwt action would be the action of choice on a build (primarily due to the trigger and safety).

I agree with you on the Husqvarna triggers. When I went through a "hunt everything with a S&W firearm" period, I rebarreled a pair of S&W 1900 series C's to 256 Newton and 338-06. If I'd been doing a metric pair, I probably would have used the same donors in 7x57 and 9.3x62. Later on, when I put together a metric pair to shoot plains game with, I did them as Interarms Mark X mannlichers in 7x57 and 9.3x62.

You can also bed the lug area to minimize any set back.

Agree, the better trigger, safety, bolt stop and ejector makes me prefer the Pre-64.

What do you find objectionable about the HVA's bolt stop and ejector?

I understand about the trigger and safety, since the safety doesn't block the firing pin, but can't seen any particular problems with either the bolt stop or ejector.

OK, but I just have to ask why?
Paul B.

Tom the tang is not right up against the wood, it has a gap in the back of the tang area. I am thinking about glassing behind the recoil lug and let it go at that. I hate to mess with it, it shoots dime size groups with my loads. but since I heard about the cracking I haven't shot it. I want to take care of a problem before it is to late. I had a h&r ultra rifle with a sako action that cracked wide open while I was shooting it. it made me sick, I repaired it but I let it go on down the road. I now have two more a model 301 and a model 700 they are beauties.

The bolt stop and ejector are one and the same piece, Ive heard of the pin that holds it in place getting sheared off and the bolt stop/ejector falling out. I never had that happen to me, but always kept it in mind. The issue I have seen with this set-up is the flat spring that tensions it upward. If the spiring is weak or that ejector/bolt stop binds in the action cut out, It may not fully rise to eject the case when the bolt is worked briskly. Most Husky's Ive worked with, the ejector doest fully rise unless the spring is re-tensioned or action cut-out is polished.

Oldskool- I hear your conundrum, hate to mess with it, but what if...

The 2-3 Ive seen cracked had zero relief in the tang, I probably wouldnt bed it unless the wood was soft. Then again, just bedding the lug aint hard to do. FWIW, the ones Ive seen crack were repaired and after relieving the tang area, showed no signs of duress.

All the Husqvarna's I've seen with tang cracks were due to the recoil lug setting back in the stock. The factory lug in the stock is very small in part due to the rather large hole right smack in the middle. I bed the recoil lug on all mine and ensure that there is a bit of relief behind the tang. The 1640's can split where the safety hump is on the right rear of the tang.

I bedded my 456 and shoot the heck out of it. .30-06 in a sub 7 lb rifle.



I have more than a couple Husqvarnas that I hunt with and love to shoot.

I started my relationship with them by first acquiring an M46 in 9,3x57. Then the 640 series when a small ring 8x57 built on a 96 came my way. Then I discovered the M46A with its schnabel fore end. Then the 98 based 640's, first in 8x57, then .30-06, then 9,3x62, etc. Then the 1640's, then the 46AN, the 46B, and so on.

The FN Commercial based 640's were a great bargain when you found them with cracked stocks. The FN Action making a perfect Platform to base a custom build off of. Same for the 1640's.

My latest being a 1640 in 9,3x62. The stock was trashed, the bore pristine but shortened to 20" and threaded for a can. I'm working on restocking it with a Mauser Type S inspired stock.

For the record, someone previously stated that Husqvarna built .30-06's on the 96 action. this is incorrect. Carl Gustafs made some. Husky used a 98 or their 1640 type action.

SBHVA told me this; There is a metal tube that the rear trigger guard screw slides through. When the stock shrinks with age it leaves the metal tube a bit proud and the trigger guard screw bottoms out on it and no longer makes contact with the stock. He said to either file that metal tube flush or take it out and throw it away. He said it's responsible for a lot of HVA tang cracks.

I should add that it fixed my Husky at the time. I had one that the tang split out on and everytime I'd repair it it would blow the repair out. I followed SBHVA's advice and the repair held. I might add also that I tried relieving the tang area first and it didn't stop the repair from blowing out.

Good point Mike Ive seen a few proud sleeves on the 1600/4000 series, definetly advice to heed.

Is there a difference in the alloy bottom metal and the steel? Will they interchange in the stocks?

No, sadly they are not interchangeable.

A friend ended up swapping alloy bottom metal for steel (or perhaps it was the other way around) to be able to use a particularly nice stock that he had.

John

thanks for the good info, I will bed the lug and make sure the rear pillar tube is not proud and the rear screw tightens like it should. I love this rifle and sure don't need a crack. dose anyone know what all calibers the full stocks came in?

I guess I will know for sure shortly. I will have both types. The rifle with the steel bottom metal was repaired, not by me, and the lug is bedded along with the tang area. That one I will sell soon. Before I sell it I will check the differences in the alloy vs steel.

The alloy bottom metal is wider at the front screw. The steel bottom metal has much nicer lines.

Ah, I couldn't recall the difference but now that pat mentioned it, that does sound familiar!

John