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I recently picked up 4x12 with ballistic turret. My issue is the adjustments, although marked 1 click=1/4", they are closer to 3/4". Anyone come across this before? The other Swarovski scopes I have (Z3, Z5 and Z6) have all been spot on. I'm in the middle of load development so I'm not thrilled about pulling the scope right now. Thoughts? Has anyone seen this before?
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The only thing I can think of is that rings too tight will cause it to adjust funky.
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I've not seen that before.
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I am a sight in and done at the range and they are no different then most when it comes to exact adjustments. That said every single 4-12x50 I have bought whether AV or Z3 has failed to hold zero within the first 20 shots. My brother has one with the ballistic turrett mounted on a 300 weatherby vanguard and has not had one issue with over 100 rounds shot thru it.
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I've go 60 rounds through it now and it's holding zero. Up and down adjustments have settled down. Right to left is still funky (much larger than 1/4"). I'll continue to test while continuing my load development. I can deal with funky---as long as it holds zero perfectly (just was a pain to get zeroed). I've had new Leupolds, Nikons and one Zeis that wouldn't tract perfectly. This is my first issue with a Swarovski.
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I have a brand new Trijicon that I have the same issues with. Gun has been fired 16 times and adjustments seems to be more like 3/4" vs 1/4". Really sucks when load testing.
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I've go 60 rounds through it now and it's holding zero. Up and down adjustments have settled down. Right to left is still funky (much larger than 1/4"). I'll continue to test while continuing my load development. I can deal with funky---as long as it holds zero perfectly (just was a pain to get zeroed). I've had new Leupolds, Nikons and one Zeis that wouldn't tract perfectly. This is my first issue with a Swarovski. What kind of rings are you using?
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How long a scope has been static with no adjustments being made, may have some bearing on the tracking. I will often move a scope 12-14 clicks, then back 1, if only 1 or 2 clicks need to be made to allow for enough movement back and forth to overcome a long time of being idle.
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The main question is, how tight are the rings?
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Didn't measure---made it snug using 3 fingers (how I've done it for decades). Ill pick up a proper tool and check the inch pounds.
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Get with Swaro to know what they recommend for their scopes.I can't remember right now but I think it is less than some others.
You might want to lap the rings too. If they are out of alignment and torquing the scope that could be all of your problem.
Last edited by R_H_Clark; 04/28/17.
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Last time I spoke to them it was 18 inch lbs of torque Max , make sure your reticle is square and that you didn't use up most of your windage adjustments centering the scope.
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Use a very light coat of rubber cement in the rings and you won't have to over tighten the rings for them to hold.
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Left to right was actually within an inch (used bore sighter before sighting in).
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Left to right was actually within an inch (used bore sighter before sighting in). Yeah that would not be a problem. I think that where the ring clamps on the tube and they are short tubes can lead to some problems as well if they are not torqued right. The Three I had issues were on a Sako 300 wsm, 7mm Weatherby and a Sako 30-06. Optilock-Talley Screwlocks-Optilocks respectively.
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Does the rubber cement leave a mark or impact the finish?
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Does the rubber cement leave a mark or impact the finish? Not at all whenever I've used it. It's easy to peal off if you want to change scopes and you just peel any excess off too. It also helps cut down on ring marks. I just use the Elmers rubber cement with the brush cap like the school kids use.
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I lap AND use rubber cement. Never had a ring mark with that system.
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