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Thank you. I will probably just stick with the 160/175's in mine. I have. 26" tube so want to push it a bit. I am running right at 3400fps with h4931sc in my 7Rem mag and 140gr N. Bal tips and I'm at 3125 with 160gr partitions in that old rifle but I'm running 69.5 great of the h4831 to get it
No pressure signs, brass life is about 5 loadings so I'm good with that but have always wanted the Mashburn...read to much of Have in my youth ;-) any recommendations as to starting points with the 22 or 870 and 160/175's ?

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Originally Posted by archeratlrg
Thank you. I will probably just stick with the 160/175's in mine. I have. 26" tube so want to push it a bit. I am running right at 3400fps with h4931sc in my 7Rem mag and 140gr N. Bal tips and I'm at 3125 with 160gr partitions in that old rifle but I'm running 69.5 great of the h4831 to get it
No pressure signs, brass life is about 5 loadings so I'm good with that but have always wanted the Mashburn...read to much of Have in my youth ;-) any recommendations as to starting points with the 22 or 870 and 160/175's ?


I'd probably look at any old 7mm Weatherby data using H870.. maybe an old Speer manual would have a start. I've got no experience with it in either of my Mashburns.

I got 3200 with H1000 out of my old Mashburn and 160 Accubonds and 3250 with Partitions. 175's ran 3050 with H1000 and 3100 with Retumbo and 175 Partitions. With my current Mashburn I'm doing 3250's with 154 Interbonds and H1000. Still working the load a little though.

If you haven't gotten one yet, an inside neck reamer will be required to cut the donut out after fireforming. If you don't get it out it will play heck with pressures and with accuracy. Once you nip it once, it's done but nowadays I fireform and inside neck turn. It's made it a cinch to load for.


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Thanks again beretzs, are you finding any particular COAL to work better than another and how far off the lands are you seating your bullets?

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Originally Posted by gunner500
The old cloverleaf tang M-70 300 H&H action and Conetrol rings and bases on the way to Redneck, along with a #3 Brux SS 8 twist 28" barrel '630" at the muzzle.

200 sticks of Norma 300 Win Mag brass along with a set of dies on the way to me, this is coming along just fine, now to find a stock and a scope. smile



Sounds like a pretty cool project!
28" tube - you gonna swing it at animals or shoot it? grin

I'd likely role with the 160AB's too.


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LOL, barrel will be cut at 26.5"s, from what I've seen, and read, the 160 AB's are gonna be tough to beat for an all around hunting bullet SKane, a good rangefinder and spintop scope will get most anything covered nicely in the game mountains and fields. cool


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If you can't find some 160 AB's, drop me a line. I can probably spare a box or two (though I think they're plentiful once again).


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Thanks buddy, grabbed 600 of those little punchers awhile back, PM sent though.


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Originally Posted by archeratlrg
Thanks again beretzs, are you finding any particular COAL to work better than another and how far off the lands are you seating your bullets?


Not really. The 154 Interbonds are .100" off the rifling and shooting well. The Partition shot well around .040" in my old rifle and the Accubond did well at about .075".


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Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by gunner500
Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by gunner500
10-4 thanks, looks like a nice tin of Imperial Wax may be in order too.



For danged sure. It works flat awesome.

3050 is no big trick. Seems like Page crushed about everything with 175's back in the day!

The 175 BBCs were the two quickest elk kills I've had so far. Hit me again 10 years and we will see if it holds up! grin



LOL, oh too have a box of 1000 of those bullets, damn!



I've got about 200 of them. Should be able to do something with em...



I'll bet so, same with me and all these 160 AB's, if the Super Masher doesn't like em, bet I can get the little Montana 280 AI to shoot em. smile


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Thanks buddy, grabbed 600 of those little punchers awhile back, PM sent though.


They're only "little punchers" compared to what you normally sling downrange. laugh


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Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by archeratlrg
Thank you. I will probably just stick with the 160/175's in mine. I have. 26" tube so want to push it a bit. I am running right at 3400fps with h4931sc in my 7Rem mag and 140gr N. Bal tips and I'm at 3125 with 160gr partitions in that old rifle but I'm running 69.5 great of the h4831 to get it
No pressure signs, brass life is about 5 loadings so I'm good with that but have always wanted the Mashburn...read to much of Have in my youth ;-) any recommendations as to starting points with the 22 or 870 and 160/175's ?


I'd probably look at any old 7mm Weatherby data using H870.. maybe an old Speer manual would have a start. I've got no experience with it in either of my Mashburns.

I got 3200 with H1000 out of my old Mashburn and 160 Accubonds and 3250 with Partitions. 175's ran 3050 with H1000 and 3100 with Retumbo and 175 Partitions. With my current Mashburn I'm doing 3250's with 154 Interbonds and H1000. Still working the load a little though.

If you haven't gotten one yet, an inside neck reamer will be required to cut the donut out after fireforming. If you don't get it out it will play heck with pressures and with accuracy. Once you nip it once, it's done but nowadays I fireform and inside neck turn. It's made it a cinch to load for.


what is this donut in the neck that you refer to?

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Originally Posted by SKane
Originally Posted by gunner500
Thanks buddy, grabbed 600 of those little punchers awhile back, PM sent though.


They're only "little punchers" compared to what you normally sling downrange. laugh

True dat... grin

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Originally Posted by 79inpa
Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by archeratlrg
Thank you. I will probably just stick with the 160/175's in mine. I have. 26" tube so want to push it a bit. I am running right at 3400fps with h4931sc in my 7Rem mag and 140gr N. Bal tips and I'm at 3125 with 160gr partitions in that old rifle but I'm running 69.5 great of the h4831 to get it
No pressure signs, brass life is about 5 loadings so I'm good with that but have always wanted the Mashburn...read to much of Have in my youth ;-) any recommendations as to starting points with the 22 or 870 and 160/175's ?


I'd probably look at any old 7mm Weatherby data using H870.. maybe an old Speer manual would have a start. I've got no experience with it in either of my Mashburns.

I got 3200 with H1000 out of my old Mashburn and 160 Accubonds and 3250 with Partitions. 175's ran 3050 with H1000 and 3100 with Retumbo and 175 Partitions. With my current Mashburn I'm doing 3250's with 154 Interbonds and H1000. Still working the load a little though.

If you haven't gotten one yet, an inside neck reamer will be required to cut the donut out after fireforming. If you don't get it out it will play heck with pressures and with accuracy. Once you nip it once, it's done but nowadays I fireform and inside neck turn. It's made it a cinch to load for.


what is this donut in the neck that you refer to?


When the cases get run into the form and then trim die the thick part of the 300 Win shoulder becomes the neck on the Mashburn. A little ring of material forms about 3/4's the way down on the inside of the neck. I can usually feel it with the pin gauge after forming and definitely after fireforming. I never noticed it or gave it much thought until Darcy pointed out how to find them. Once I slipped a few pins down in there and they were stopped I knew what I had going on.

At first I didn't think it was any big deal but as I shot the brass with the ring concentricity went to heck and pressure would spike for no good reason. Since I've learned to clean up that little wisp of brass life has been easy again and Mashburn is back to being a mild mannered nail driver.


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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by SKane
Originally Posted by gunner500
Thanks buddy, grabbed 600 of those little punchers awhile back, PM sent though.


They're only "little punchers" compared to what you normally sling downrange. laugh

True dat... grin

DF



LOL Men I've got a 22 Hornet that says it'll get me entry into the Poohbah Kingdom. laugh


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how do you inside neck ream?

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Originally Posted by 79inpa
how do you inside neck ream?


Inside Neck Reamer



Last edited by The_Yetti; 07/22/17.
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Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by 79inpa
Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by archeratlrg
Thank you. I will probably just stick with the 160/175's in mine. I have. 26" tube so want to push it a bit. I am running right at 3400fps with h4931sc in my 7Rem mag and 140gr N. Bal tips and I'm at 3125 with 160gr partitions in that old rifle but I'm running 69.5 great of the h4831 to get it
No pressure signs, brass life is about 5 loadings so I'm good with that but have always wanted the Mashburn...read to much of Have in my youth ;-) any recommendations as to starting points with the 22 or 870 and 160/175's ?


I'd probably look at any old 7mm Weatherby data using H870.. maybe an old Speer manual would have a start. I've got no experience with it in either of my Mashburns.

I got 3200 with H1000 out of my old Mashburn and 160 Accubonds and 3250 with Partitions. 175's ran 3050 with H1000 and 3100 with Retumbo and 175 Partitions. With my current Mashburn I'm doing 3250's with 154 Interbonds and H1000. Still working the load a little though.

If you haven't gotten one yet, an inside neck reamer will be required to cut the donut out after fireforming. If you don't get it out it will play heck with pressures and with accuracy. Once you nip it once, it's done but nowadays I fireform and inside neck turn. It's made it a cinch to load for.


what is this donut in the neck that you refer to?


When the cases get run into the form and then trim die the thick part of the 300 Win shoulder becomes the neck on the Mashburn. A little ring of material forms about 3/4's the way down on the inside of the neck. I can usually feel it with the pin gauge after forming and definitely after fireforming. I never noticed it or gave it much thought until Darcy pointed out how to find them. Once I slipped a few pins down in there and they were stopped I knew what I had going on.

At first I didn't think it was any big deal but as I shot the brass with the ring concentricity went to heck and pressure would spike for no good reason. Since I've learned to clean up that little wisp of brass life has been easy again and Mashburn is back to being a mild mannered nail driver.


Scotty talked me into a pin gauge set for my Mashburn--not that it was very hard.

Great enlightenment for inside neck diameter (related to neck tension, but many variable involved, not necessarily just inside neck diameter).

I even found donuts in some several times fired 30-06 brass, that I never resized from another case.

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Originally Posted by 79inpa
how do you inside neck ream?


I use the K&M hand tool. It has a cutter on the studs that'll knock the donut out.

And yes to the pin gauges. Pretty handy tool.


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I went to K&M's site and can't figure out which hand tool you speak of Beretz, I'll need to order one for my Mashburn.


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Gunner, I ordered right from K&M. Basically you'll need an expander mandrel, hand cutter with 284 stud/cutter and an adapter that I can spin the case with my cordless drill.

Here's the stud that goes into the hand tool. You can see the cutters on the end.

http://kmshooting.com/carbide-cutting-pilot.html

Here is the hand tool and shell holder set up.

http://kmshooting.com/steel-pilot-carbide-cutter-power-adapter-and-shell-holder-1023.html

The handle comes right off the shell holder assembly, then you can attach the drill motor right to it. I back the outside neck cutter all the way off. You shouldn't have any reason to outside turn at all.

Give them a call though. They will get you set up right. Good folks to deal with.

Last edited by beretzs; 07/23/17.

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