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I have inherited a 4"x12"x11ft piece of American Black Walnut. Flat sawn. Has been in an unheated garage for past 10 years. I will take moisture readings with a Delmhorst pin-type moisture meter in the near future. The piece is basically straight grained. With only two small visible knots in the first 9 to 10ft.

I am considering cutting gun stock blanks for a few relatives (kids, grand kids) for the sentimental value. I understand that being flat sawn and straight grained these will be very functional stock blanks, but, not showy. I am O.K. with that. Question to the group is how to layout the blanks? Wood on one edge is 30* to 35* rift. Wood on the other edge is 15* to 20* rift. Options that come to mind:

1) Layout blanks across full width of the slab so that grain runs parallel to top of barrel channel/fore arm.
> Pro: max utilization of the wood.
> Con: All stocks will have some rift sawn grain pattern. 50% of stocks will have rift in the upper portion of the stock.

2) Similar to #1, but angle blanks so that grain runs down thru the wrist.
> Pro: stronger wrist section. Still reasonable utilization of wood
> Con: Still have some amount of rift grain pattern in all stocks.

3) Take a 1" trim cut off one edge, and a 3" trim cut of the other edge to center the flat sawn portion of the grain pattern. Then layout blanks with grain running down thru wrist.
> Pro: Minimal rift grain pattern. Strong wrist section.
> Con: least utilization of wood.

4) I have considered taking a 3" section out of the very middle, planing and gluing two pieces together to make a 3"x8" blanks that are perfectly quarter sawn, albeit with a glue line in the butt stocks.

The other piece of information is that I have a thin blade band saw mill. So I can also make trim cuts to take the 4" thickness down to 3", etc. Not looking to over think or over engineer. Just the the first (and possibly only) time I've been in this situation. Looking for input. Again, goal is nice clean functional one piece rifle stocks.

Thank you !

Edit: Zero sap wood...






Last edited by Orion2000; 07/16/17.


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I'm no expert, and this is just my opinion, but I always laid mine out with the grain running parallel to the wrist. My brother use to be a builder for commercial buildings in SW PA ,he would go in and cut all the timber, take the walnut and have it sawed into lumber. The 3" slabs, he would put in his barn to dry. I usually got some that were 20 years old, 3"x14"x 12 feet.

Yes ,you have more waste,but I think it makes a stronger stock. Out of maybe 10 stocks I have made, I have never had one break or crack.
I'm sure the real pros will shed more light on it than I can


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I always believed (still do) in laying out the best blank in the board first, second best next, and so on, but I do not use unfigured wood. Saddlesore is absolutely correct in running through grain through the grip which will also make the grain rise in the fore end.

I see no particular problem with rift saw grain in a plain, straight-grained stock.

Because the wood is so thick and you appear to have some good equipment you could get considerable increase in yield by resawing at an angle. That would be if you are only going to get blanks 4" thick.

I would also be looking toward putting the knots in butt stocks to create a little interest.

And lastly, a lot of stocks can be cut from blanks under 2 inches.


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Option 2 or 3 line the grain up in the wrist. I would make a blank pattern preferably out of clear plexiglass and lay this out with the best grain alignment in the wrist and see what you have. The angles may change Willy Neely and orientation could get reversed on some but this way you get the best grain in the wrist and most blanks out of the board.


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I appreciate the input so far. This will be a longer term project. Much to think about. Thank you....



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Here is good image of the grain running thru the neck a ML stock I did.

[![TC hawkin.jpg](https://s20.postimg.org/ro6iwqyfx/TC_hawkin.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/ro6iwqyft/)

Last edited by saddlesore; 07/17/17.

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SS, Appreciate the picture. As Sitka Deer stated, I am O.K. with the grain rising thru the fore end as with your ML. I personally like a more open grip like your ML, so, will not need quite as much "cant" to the grain to make it flow thru the wrist as with the more closed grips.

Question to the group: The other lumber that has been planed out of the same log has a really nice dark color to it. Anyway to maintain / promote that dark color when having a rifle stock cut / carved / finished ?



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Originally Posted by Orion2000
SS, Appreciate the picture. As Sitka Deer stated, I am O.K. with the grain rising thru the fore end as with your ML. I personally like a more open grip like your ML, so, will not need quite as much "cant" to the grain to make it flow thru the wrist as with the more closed grips.

Question to the group: The other lumber that has been planed out of the same log has a really nice dark color to it. Anyway to maintain / promote that dark color when having a rifle stock cut / carved / finished ?


Nothing is required to keep walnut dark... it does that all by itself. Do not keep it in front of a window with full hot sun for months and it will not fade.


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Here is good image of the grain running thru the neck a ML stock I did.

[![TC hawkin.jpg](https://s20.postimg.org/ro6iwqyfx/TC_hawkin.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/ro6iwqyft/)


I didn't know the pioneers preferred waffle style pads.


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Be sure and keep the root ball.

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Originally Posted by Tejano
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Here is good image of the grain running thru the neck a ML stock I did.

[![TC hawkin.jpg](https://s20.postimg.org/ro6iwqyfx/TC_hawkin.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/ro6iwqyft/)


I didn't know the pioneers preferred waffle style pads.

Just the sensitive ones! wink


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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
Be sure and keep the root ball.

Betting the root ball is long gone... board has been stored in a garage for the past ten years.


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I sold some walnut 3 years ago and did nothing with the root ball, it is still in the ground. Is there any value to the root ball now? I assume it would have to be dug out somehow?
kwg


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That is where the best wood is... probably some value left... but may be too late. Yes it has to be dug out.


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Yes, the root ball for my project is long gone. Regarding figured wood in the root ball. First you have to hope that the logger left enough stem above ground for the fore end. Root ball has to be dug out, generally with a back hoe or excavator. Then cleaned and pressure washed to remove dirt, rocks, debris. Then, whittled on with a chain saw to get to a manageable size/shape. Then find a sawmill willing to dink with it. Then hope that it is sound wood when it is sawn and opened up. Then hope that it does not split, crack, cup, warp, or twist while drying...

OTOH, this project is about hopefully creating a few multi-generational heirlooms to honor the memory of a very special man who had a profound impact on our family. Uncle Bill was a quiet humble man of God, who was also bull strong, hard working, reliable and carried himself with a certain amount of understated class. He just passed in January at the age of 98. The block of wood came from his wood shop. My goal is that the stocks will be just as strong and just as reliable as he was, and also have some of the same understated class...

Last edited by Orion2000; 07/22/17.



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