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I had that happen a few times when I didn't put enough torque on the bottom screws, though not as extreme as your case in the video.

I'd try really putting some torque on the bottom screws with a wrench instead of the Wheeler thing and see what happens, doesn't appear to me that you're putting much on them at all. Just a thought...

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I use Warnes most of the time. Only issue I ever had was on one scope when the rear ring was tight (I tend to tighten things more than most) the power selection ring was stiff to adjust. Scope was a Redfield Revolution.

I suspect this was because the bases were basic Weavers rather than Maxima bases. It stopped doing it when I changed to Maximas.

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I find it hard to believe that a rifle scope tube have much flex in it. How much flex could there be without compromising the integrity of the tube, something in the order of 1/10,000"?

Have you tested what the Warne people told by mounting an old or inexpensive rifle scope?

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Originally Posted by wareagle700
Warne says this is common with a lapping bar but shouldn't happen with a riflescope. The rifle scope tube is supposed to "flex" when you tighten the top screws whereas the lapping bar doesn't give any due to being solid steel.


They were helpful and are sending me another set of rings just to make sure there isn't a problem with the ones I've got.

Not sure how I feel about the rings flexing my Nightforce though....


Got that right!!!!! Flashing red light there.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
I find it hard to believe that a rifle scope tube have much flex in it. How much flex could there be without compromising the integrity of the tube, something in the order of 1/10,000"?

Have you tested what the Warne people told by mounting an old or inexpensive rifle scope?


Why bother to test?? That statement is a disqualifier for me.

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Originally Posted by GeorgiaBoy
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
I find it hard to believe that a rifle scope tube have much flex in it. How much flex could there be without compromising the integrity of the tube, something in the order of 1/10,000"?

Have you tested what the Warne people told by mounting an old or inexpensive rifle scope?


Why bother to test?? That statement is a disqualifier for me.


What statement?

Why not test? He already has the rings and it wouldn't take most than 15 minutes to install an old or throw-away scope.

The entire tube flex explanation sounds like BS to me.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by GeorgiaBoy
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
I find it hard to believe that a rifle scope tube have much flex in it. How much flex could there be without compromising the integrity of the tube, something in the order of 1/10,000"?

Have you tested what the Warne people told by mounting an old or inexpensive rifle scope?


Why bother to test?? That statement is a disqualifier for me.


What statement?

Why not test? He already has the rings and it wouldn't take most than 15 minutes to install an old or throw-away scope.

The entire tube flex explanation sounds like BS to me.



The tube flex explanation

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Tube flex sounds like BS to me.

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Originally Posted by MuskegMan

Originally Posted by Zerk
Why are alignment rods in backwards?


If you use the pointed tips toward each other, they may touch tip-to-tip, but you won't see if the individual centerline axes are co-linear. Having the large flat surfaces butted together makes this easy to visually diagnose. I actually learned this tip here on da 'Fire . . .

Not sure if I buy this or not. I suppose you could say both large cylinders must line flag against each other. But I am not sure how that would not be happening with the points, and easier to see.

Why do you think they come with points?

Googled to see if I being doing it wrong. But this seems to be something you learned here. Any articles? I read NRA and Brownells, which I am sure are fools.

Sinclair's don't even have flat spots.

Last edited by Zerk; 08/11/17.
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I don't have an old or throw away scope with a 30mm tube.

The guy I spoke with at Warne explained it well and it makes perfect sense for whats hapening in the video. The bottoms tighten up to the rail just fine (Yes, I tried multiple makes of weaver rails with same results). When you tighten the top screws, there is nothing to give between the rings (solid steel lapping bar vs. hollow aluminum tube) so the bottom pulls apart the more you tighten the top screws.

I felt certain they were slipping on the base with the scope installed also but I may have been wrong or may have had the top screws too tight. Either way, after learning how the Warne rings secure the scope to the base, I am hesitant to try to recreate the problem with an expensive optic.


John 8:12 "I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will never walk in darkness, but will have the light of life."
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Originally Posted by Zerk
Why are alignment rods in backwards?


They are just reversed. Putting two flats against each other can show angles that would be very hard to see with two round points touching. You can use them both ways.

Similar to this:

[Linked Image]

Last edited by wareagle700; 08/11/17.

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Originally Posted by wareagle700
Originally Posted by Zerk
Why are alignment rods in backwards?


They are just reversed. Putting two flats against each other can show angles that would be very hard to see with two round points touching. You can use them both ways.

Similar to this:

[Linked Image]


Case in point - pointy tips would prolly be just about touching and one would think all is good . . . .

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Originally Posted by Zerk
Originally Posted by MuskegMan

Originally Posted by Zerk
Why are alignment rods in backwards?


If you use the pointed tips toward each other, they may touch tip-to-tip, but you won't see if the individual centerline axes are co-linear. Having the large flat surfaces butted together makes this easy to visually diagnose. I actually learned this tip here on da 'Fire . . .

Not sure if I buy this or not. I suppose you could say both large cylinders must line flag against each other. But I am not sure how that would not be happening with the points, and easier to see.

Why do you think they come with points?

Googled to see if I being doing it wrong. But this seems to be something you learned here. Any articles? I read NRA and Brownells, which I am sure are fools.

Sinclair's don't even have flat spots.


I was going easy on your Zerk. I backed waaaay off my initial reply, cuz I try not to be an azz

Check out Kokopelli's product (hint - they don't even come with pointy tips)

http://www.kokopelliproducts.com/scopeb.html

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I simply asked for an article, and if there was something new to learn. As I wrote I googled this to see if I was doing it wrong. Read Brownells, NRA, and Sinclair, plus others. My guess is they are not improved reading.

As I said, I was simply asking for an article.

If someone wants to be an azz over that, it is cause they are an azz.

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Originally Posted by MuskegMan
Originally Posted by Zerk
[quote=MuskegMan]
[quote=Zerk]Why are alignment rods in backwards?


http://www.kokopelliproducts.com/scopeb.html

These are not the norm. Figure me for not hearing of some rare product. Does not explain why they are better. I kinda think cheaper product. Easier to produce without points. I kinda think got swindled.

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Originally Posted by wareagle700
Originally Posted by Zerk
Why are alignment rods in backwards?


They are just reversed. Putting two flats against each other can show angles that would be very hard to see with two round points touching. You can use them both ways.

Similar to this:

[Linked Image]


Yup. The points could touch, and thinking your rings centerlines are identical you put your scope in there and torque it down and bend it slightly into a bow.

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Originally Posted by wareagle700
I don't have an old or throw away scope with a 30mm tube.

The guy I spoke with at Warne explained it well and it makes perfect sense for whats hapening in the video. The bottoms tighten up to the rail just fine (Yes, I tried multiple makes of weaver rails with same results). When you tighten the top screws, there is nothing to give between the rings (solid steel lapping bar vs. hollow aluminum tube) so the bottom pulls apart the more you tighten the top screws.

I felt certain they were slipping on the base with the scope installed also but I may have been wrong or may have had the top screws too tight. Either way, after learning how the Warne rings secure the scope to the base, I am hesitant to try to recreate the problem with an expensive optic.


If the bottom screws are in tight, like farmer tight, how can they pull apart without either stripping the threads of either the base or the screws themselves or by actually bending the screws?

Do the bases themselves flex?

I need to try this for myself, as I have a few set of loose 1" Warne rings at the shop.

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I don't know how to explain it, but it happens. Try for yourself.


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Originally Posted by Zerk
Does not explain why they are better. .


Wow - it's been explained to you twice now on this very thread.

I can only lead the horse to water . . .

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Originally Posted by MuskegMan

Originally Posted by Zerk
Does not explain why they are better. .


Wow - it's been explained to you twice now on this very thread.

I can only lead the horse to water . . .


Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Zerk
I am no victim. This is ain't no job resume.


You are one stupid mötherfücker.


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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