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Campfire Tracker
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Since the discussion is about reloaded ammo, what is the point in loading 40 to shoot in a 10mm? It is pretty darned simple to load 10 mm to 40 S&W power levels.
Now, shooting factory 40 because it is cheaper than buying 10 mm is a different story. Don't go bringing logic into the discussion.
'Four legs good, two legs baaaad." ---------------------------------------------- "Jimmy, some of it's magic, Some of it's tragic, But I had a good life all the way." (Jimmy Buffett)
SotG
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Joined: Oct 2013
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,934 Likes: 2 |
Why not just download the 10mm?
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I know exactly what .010 is. I work with materials under .030 all the time, sometimes to +0 -2 Point being, in a setup where the extractor should hold the loaded cartridge by spring pressure, it the cartridge is a long way from touching the end of the chamber.
If your holding it by the ass, it's head ain't going anywhere, and it has to headspace on the extractor. .010 or 1", it's not headspaceing on the case mouth.
Last edited by Dillonbuck; 08/13/17.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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Joined: Oct 2014
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Why not just download the 10mm?
Brass availability is my only reason. I've got multiple 5 gallon buckets of 40 brass, but only ~300 pieces of 10mm. You don't really find 10mm laying around here much at the local ranges. It's a pretty minor reason, but it works with no issues so I do it. In my case, I'm mostly loading 40 long to near 10mm levels, but that's a different discussion and a somewhat more advanced reloading topic.
Last edited by Yondering; 08/13/17.
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Campfire Tracker
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My secondary reason is that you can type GLOCK on a GLOCK thread all day and speak at the water cooler about your GLOCK for another entire day but all it's really telling people is that you can interchange the 10mm and the 40 as long as it's chambered for the 10mm regardless of design or manufacturer. And before anybody slings Big Brother accusations at me I'll simply point out that the very same arguments occur on the very same subject, on the very same board, with the very same people, time and time again.
Call me callous but I have a hard time caring what people do who can't pay attention to simple details like "OK in a Glock but NOT in a 1911" as I've posted every time this comes up. If someone ignores that and shoots 40 in a 1911 10mm, that's their problem.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2002
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I shoot a Canadian Para 16/40 that I had a Bar-Sto 10mm barrel and bushing fitted when I lived in Canada. I swapped recoil springs but both fed fine from the 40 magazine. I now own a 5" Smith M610 no dash so the 10 barrel will see little use I suspect. I have a Ruger Buckeye 10mm/38-40 that I have never used the 10mm cylinder on.
Conduct is the best proof of character.
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Campfire Regular
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A few reasons to not do it. For one the gun is not made for 40 S&W. Recoil spring is too heavy, chamber too deep so you are relying on extractor hook to hold case in place. The pistol is not meant to operate that way. 40 in a 10mm will build up carbon in the chamber that will jam up 10mm brass just as bad as firing 38 out of a 357. If you want to shoot 40 in your 10 get a proper barrel and recoil spring. Might need different mags to feed right. Not likely though.
Starline brass is not that expensive in 10mm considering how long they last. I bought a thousand 10 years ago and have only been working the initial 500. They will last for 30 plus firings or till you can't find them anymore.
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Campfire Tracker
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The recoil spring thing is a non-issue. Glock 10mm pistols (and almost all other 10mm pistols too) are set up to run weak factory 10mm ammo that is basically 40 S&W in a longer case. They cycle fine with 40 S&W ammo, as anyone who's actually tried it knows. If they didn't, a 40 S&W conversion barrel wouldn't work with the factory spring either.
The extractor concern is also a non-issue. Good example of looking for a theoretical problem where none exists in reality.
Cleaning the chamber after firing 40 and before firing 10mm is a good idea, and that's a worthwhile point to mention.
Last edited by Yondering; 08/16/17.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Posts: 24,667 |
the ability to shoot 40SW as practice ammunition in a G20 or G40 is intriguing. I am not sure it would work in the 1911 style pistols but having seen reports than many shoot 40's in their 10mm glocks and I believe someone here has done it as well. I think Lee dies say that if you buy the 40SW die set you can load 10mm with it much the same as 38 and 357 magnum. I don't know if this would work with a 1911 style gun, but I am interested in trying it in a glock. any comments? jimmy, I know we've discussed this at least twice in the past year, and you commented on the threads. I even posted a picture showing why it's OK in a Glock but NOT in a 1911. What is the question again? You got my attention...why is this okay in a Glock but not okay in a 1911?
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 131,799 Likes: 23 |
A few reasons to not do it. For one the gun is not made for 40 S&W. Recoil spring is too heavy, chamber too deep so you are relying on extractor hook to hold case in place. The pistol is not meant to operate that way. 40 in a 10mm will build up carbon in the chamber that will jam up 10mm brass just as bad as firing 38 out of a 357. If you want to shoot 40 in your 10 get a proper barrel and recoil spring. Might need different mags to feed right. Not likely though. I bought a .40 barrel for my Model 20, and it functions 100% reliable with the Model 20 recoil spring. No need to switch springs.
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Campfire Tracker
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You got my attention...why is this okay in a Glock but not okay in a 1911?
Firing pin protrusion. In a 1911, CZ clone, or most others the firing pin can reach the primer if the round is chambered in front of the extractor. This results in the case slamming back into the breech and can potentially result in a case rupture. A Glock striker won't reach, so you either get a safe bang as expected, or no bang at all. FWIW I've also never had a Glock feed a 40 S&W round in front of the extractor, but have had it happen with 1911 and Witness pistols. [img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p...LNrpjfVpho05iIS-Nmoes4jXeuD=w800-h576-no[/img] Still experimenting with picture hosting post-Photobucket, just click the link.
Last edited by Yondering; 08/16/17.
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Campfire Tracker
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I've been saying this for years, but that's the first article I've seen saying the same thing. I don't think that guy knows what a "Glock smile" is though.
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