Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Amsoil is it the real deal?

As per the factory maintenance schedule My 2017 TUndra requires an oil change at 10K intervals. I normally go 5k with full synthetic on my previous vehicles. A guy at work has a Dodge diesel and he goes 25k on his oil changes using Amsoil. He has almost 300k on the engine with no issues and he has sent samples in to get tested.

Honestly I am a little leery of a 10k interval nevermind 25k.

I was always very conservative on oil changes, but I now go 7-8K with synthetic. My Corvette has a oil change program based on miles, rpm, etc, and it would probably go over 10K but I never let it go that far. I change it myself so it is around 35 bucks with a good filter, so cost is not a factor. I give my oil to my buddy at his garage, and he burns it for heat. So really no waste.

Many will tout the idea of UOA - Used oil analysis and generally it's a good idea.

That said - In a previous life I did a ton of M&R work with a major carrier here in the US. We'd run 75,000 miles on class 8 equipment before dropping oil. Filter changes at 25k. EGR motors that are abused quite a bit. If a UOA told me I was good to go, I'd not fret and roll with it.

Over the life of a car - oil isn't a super major expense so changing early for condition isn't the worst thing in the world.

How long do you intend to keep it? Oil change interval affects engine life at the end, not beginning. If you get rid of it at 100k, it might be fine with 1 or 2 changes on syntetic. You would never see the effects. If you want to drve it untill the engine is dead, change that [bleep] often. And remembet, if you want to protect your engine, you need to be dropping good oil out of it, not used up crap.

Most of my vehicle owning life I changed oil every 3,000 miles. Now I have worked up to 5,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. It would be hard for me to go 10,000 miles even if the factory said it was okay.

Been using Amsoil in my Duramax since day one and change oil every 15-20K. I am currently at 145K with zero issues of any kind with the motor.
Guess I better sell before it gets to 150K. Laughing

Modern engines and today's synthetic oils are designed for 10,000 mile or more oil changes. Just because we changed the oil every 3K in the 60s and 70s doesn't mean it applies to modern engines and oils. It's cheap and easy to do an oil assay if you don't feel comfortable with it. When is the last time someone had a real problem attributed to lubrication failure?

If you run Amsoil and run it 15-20k between changes just remember that most likely your warranty won't cover any issues since you aren't following the recommendations in the manual...

I don't know which model year Toyota went to the 10K intervals, but my 2013 Tundra is the same, so they switched awhile ago and you're not a guinea pig. Mine came from the factory with 100% synthetic oil and 10K recommended oil change intervals. I'm OK with it, I'm at 55K now and visually the oil is still clear as can be at the 10K intervals. I was surprised at how "thin" the SAE 0W-20 oil is, very different from old style oil. You sure don't need to fool with summer vs winter oil weights anymore.

When I bought my Tacoma back in 2011, I think, some came with synthetic and some with regular motor oil. The ones with synthetic recommended 10,000 miles while the ones with regular was 5,000. When I bought my Tundra in 2015, it came with synthetic but the recommended mileage was 5,000 miles. I don't quite understand why, as everyone that I have talked to had no problems with the 10,000 miles oil change. miles

Flex Fuel Engines are recommended a 5k oil change. I do not have that engine.

How many guys have actually worn out an engine? IME the rest of the vehicle goes to hell before the engine dies. I'd not fret oil. I also on don't care for Scamsoil.

What engines did your 2011 and 2015 models have? My 2013 has the 4.6 L

You mean 4.0 ?

I wouldn't be scared of amsoil every 10k miles.

I like Amsoil products and use a few myself, but I don't use their oil, not because I think it's bad oil - it's not - there are just better alternatives in my opinion. I've used their grease for my ball joints and tie rod ends for the past 230,000 miles. While the original no grease fitting ball joints were replaced, I'm still running the original tie rod ends at 244,000 miles. That's Minnesota miles, snow miles, sub-zero miles.

I use Schaeffer Oil, American's oldest oil company. Delivered right to my door by my sales representative - who has never once in 14 years of buying from him tried to sigh me up as some kind of dealer or other program in order to get a discount. If interested, here's his web site with complete product information.

Click Here.

And I've got 385K on my dodge diesel with shell rotella T dino oil

Amsoil is a scam, I wouldn't use it on a bet.

Flex Fuel or 4x4's are recommended for 5K oil changes, the only tundra that get a 10K change is the 2wd non-flex fuel.

Mobil 1 is cheap and it takes 15 minutes to change the oil and filter. Just do the 5000 mile changes.

No. 2013 4.6 liter V8, 4X4 doublecab. Full synthetic oil from factory. Owners manual recommended oil change schedule every 10,000 miles.

I have a 2017 5.7 4WD 4x4 and looking at maintenance schedule and model number it is a 10k interval. I am still a little leery of Amsoil, will use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Ultra at 5k intervals.

My mistake, I did not read the part where it was a Tundra , I thought it was a Tacoma.

The Taco had the V6, and the Tundra has the large V8. I lose interest when they start putting the stuff in metric. miles

I have a 2011 Tundra 4WD with the non flex fuel 5.7 liter and the manual calls for 6 month or 5k oil changes. In 2012 they changed to 10k intervals for the non flex fuel engines. I changed the oil 2x a year until the powertrain warranty was expired as I only put between 6 - 8k per year on the truck. I now plan to do yearly changes with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20. December will mark be the first full year of trying this and I plan to run a UOA through Blackstone just to see what the used oil looks like.

The 4 cyl tacoma come with synthetic 10k The 4.0 uses regular oil and the interval is 5k. My wife leases a Mercedes suv and the oil interval is 10,000 The service manager told me extensive testing shows 10k is absolutely no problem. I am and old guy and when I was younger it was 3k lol

Most here are throwing away good oil. Fact. But, if it makes you feel better, do it. Synthetics with a 5k filter change works well.

I ran Amsoil with 10k intervals from 40k miles up until I sold my Frontier a week or so ago with 128k miles. Sent the oil off for analysis every change to an independent lab (Blackstone) and the results always came back looking good. Never had a desire to go over 10k miles but was told in several of their reports I could go further. The key to extended drain intervals is a good filter as much as it is good oil.

I wouldn't be afraid to change oil at 10K with a filter change at 5K with any synthetic. In fact that is probably conservative and I've been doing that for a while. There are guys over at tacomaworld that have over 400,000 miles on some rigs using that schedule.

I would not have a problem with that either. The thing holds 7 1/2 quarts .

Dad has the 2007 Dmax. He is retired, and spends a lot of time researching on the internet. He came across the Amsoil scam also. Wanted to go full synthetic so he could go longer intervals between changes. Changed the oil and filter, and cranked it up. Few minutes later, he could here a distinct tapping sound. It hadn't left the drive way yet. Dropped the brand new Amsoil out, put a new filter, and went back with the Delo. No more tapping. This truck is babied, and my old man is anal retentive when it comes to maintenance. I hope he buys a new one soon. I really want his "old" one. He deleted the 9th injector, and put a thru exhaust on it. Has the programmer for the delete also. Also did a reroute of the PCV so it doesn't go back thru the turbo. Man does that truck run..


Clyde

There is no 9th injector on the LMM (2007.5 -2010) for the DPF.

Amsoil is not a scam but rather some people are just not able to change with the times.

It's NOT a 2007.5. It's a 2007. The 9th injector was straight into the catylatic converter. My dad's truck does not and has never run on DEF/DPF. When the truck would go into the "clean" mode, you could watch the gas mileage drop significantly. It would shoot raw diesel into the exhaust to "clean" the converter. Hence the 9th injector.

The Amsoil deal with his truck was as stated. Didn't work for him.. YMMV


Clyde

2007 had the LBZ with no DPF, thus no regen or 9th injector.

2007.5-2010 was the LMM with DPF and 9th. If it isn't a 2007.5 he has the only LBZ made in the world with a DPF.

Since you believe that fuel is delivered to the cat via this 9th injector to clean the cat then it makes sense that amsoil caused the truck to make a tapping sound. Wow

The fact that you DON'T know about how the fuel is injected straight into the cat is telling. The amsoil issue was exactly as stated. The oil did not perform well. It obviously didn't work in his truck. The 9th injector is actually slang term. But if you think that fuel isn't injected directly into the cat, then I can't help you. Now, do you want to tell me again that a truck that has never run on DEF, runs on DEF???? Hint,,,,,it's not a 2007.5



Well I stand corrected. It is a 2007.5. It HAD the DPF that had the 9th injector. My apologies. He had it removed. In my haste, I correlated DPF with DEF. My bad.

But the Amsoil still sucks.



Clyde

Can't comment on Amsoil, but can comment on extended oil changes running full synthetic. Have had two high mileage E-class Mercedes, factory recommended oil change is 10-12k using Mobil 1. Had 220k on one vehicle before it was totaled, engine still ran like a top. Have 170k on the other one and it runs like new. Had an 06 cummins that I went 15k on oil changes 7.5k on filters using mobil 1, at 150k it ran like new.

I have no qualms with extended oil changes running a quality full synthetic.

Annually, my Wife and I each put an average of 15,000+/- mile on our daily drivers and change the oil on the same 6,000+/- mile interval that I rotate the tires. I could probably extend the oil change intervals, but I'm old, rather set in my ways, and don't mind spending a little more money if it buys peace of mind.

I put a lot fewer miles on my occasional use Explorer Sport Trac, Nissan Frontier, and Jeep Grand Cherokee and change the oil at either 6,000+/- miles or annually if they don't reach 6,000+/- miles since the last oil change.

I use Mobil 1 in whatever viscosity and style the manufacturer recommends.

Gabillion oil threads on places that discuss engines.

Most posts are irrelevent. Unless you have high miles or blow early, who cares.

Addng to the no one cares lists, I do use premum oil. I figure small % of cost, and I can afford it. If I coulnd't I would not.

How many people junk vehicles cause engines fai? I got one 200k and another 150, which are nothing these days. Engines typically are not the failure point, I suspect. You get tired of nickel and time. Rust is an issue in my area.

I drive 200 miles a day. Sometimes spread between trucks and bikes.

All this is true. Engine wear nowadays is rarely the reason to get rid of a car, everything else starts going before the engine. I'm a high mileage driver too, I drive 250 miles to work one way and keep a car specifically for that purpose, the last two have been toyota camrys and the one before it a honda civic. I traded the civic to a guy in return for some work around my place when it had 275,000 miles on it and traded in the previous camry on a new one when it had 299,700 miles. Both the civic and the camry were running fine but little things were starting to break and I wasn't keen on relying upon a 300,000 mile plus vehicle as my primary work transportation. Both those vehicles got 5000 miles oil changes with dino oil and never had an oil related problem. The newest camry I'm driving now came with synthetic and recommended 10,000 mile change intervals so that's what it gets, mobil 1 at 10,000 miles. I fully expect it to go fine to 300,000 miles when I'll probably trade it on a new one.

All these oil threads are fun, but really just look in the manufacturer's book and change it at the recommend interval with quality oil in the grade/type they recommend and you'll be fine. Skip all the wonder products promising to do everything including bake you a cake like Amsoil and K&N filters. General rule is if it comes with a sticker for your back window it's targeted at the boy racer crowd and best avoided.

If interested in long drains I would trust Mobil way before Amsoil... for starters actually manufactures oil and additives, Amsoil doesnt.

Been using amsoil for years and I abuse my equipment. Amazing stuff and every UOA I've ever had done confirms it

Once a year

Yep. We go 10k with Mobil 1 on my wife's Porsche and her Audi. Though still low miles (22k and 25k) the oil dumps pretty damn clean when changed. I change my Tundra around 6k with Castrol GTX. My '73 Mach 1 (a tweaked 351 Cleveland) gets Royal Purple as that is what the previous owner ran and provided two cases of. Next year it will have a different engine (427 Windsor roller stroker) and it will see Mobil 1.

I know some that use it bu I never figured it was worth the cost....my 93 Chevy has 316k on conventional oil..chevron 10-30 with wix filters every 5 k miles..

Full synthetic isn't more expensive when you factor in running it twice as long before changing it. I value my time, so cutting my oil changes in 1/2 is a benefit to me.

I wish you would keep that kind of information to yourself.

I have been using Amsoil in all of my vehicles for probably 7 years. And yes I change the oil in my Honda 2006 (268k miles) and Tacoma 2006 (145k miles) once a year. The Honda started when it had approx 65k miles and the Tacoma started when it had approx 75k miles. My reason for going for the extend interval oil change is because we put alot of miles on the Honda, at least 450 miles a week. So I wanted the extend oil change. As someone alluded above, the interior car will wear out before the motor, at least with the 2005 models. This is primarily a function of the motor designed better than the cars of yesterday years. There are alot more high mileage vehicles on the road today and that is a testament to the durability of vehicles today. I have used Amsoil in all of my vehicles, Honda, Tacoma, Rav I will do when the warranty expires, Harley (all three holes except the tranny).

My wife bought a new 2016 Rav last year and the dealer was offering $500 for the Honda. Since I bought this Honda brand new I said hell with it and kept the Honda thinking I can get 300k miles out of it. I have never bought and kept a car for that long so I wanted to try this one. We are driving the Honda to work with my wife driving it 75 miles round trip always but she works from home 2 days a week nowdays so its getting driven less than previously. I work from home and my round trip is 30 miles and drive the Honda if possible and the Tacoma when she drives the Honda. Both vehicles have held up well for the mileage we put on the cars.

As for Amsoil being a gimmick...that is funny. There are millions of vehicles on the road using Amsoil. Right now I pay $16 for yearly Amsoil membership and the cost to buy this synthetic Amsoil is cheaper than Mobile 1 or any other synthetic oil. I will say this...when I change oil in my vehicles I decided to use the Mann/Wix oil filter and if I do put 21k miles on my vehicle starting with the oil change I will swap out for anew filter and top off the oil. So basically I change filter 3 times when I drive the vehicle for 21k miles. I am doing this for peace of mind knowing I have fresh filter to catch dirt from the oil. I have always changed oil myself so this is alot less work for me but if I felt I need oil changed 3x a year I would do it.

Back when I started using Amsoil I researched the feasibility of Amsoil. I found an article where Amsoil did a test of their synthetic oil comparing with others (Mobile, Rotella, Purple) and Amsoil found their oil last well for the heat a motor produces. The article is on the internet somewhere. If this was BS then why do you think Mobile and others did not take Amsoil to court for this kind of test? Why did not Mobile do the test themselves and find out whether this is false misrepresenting their oil (or any other oil manufacture can do this?). I think back in the day...dealerships want everyone to change oil frequently...that is how they make money. This extend interval oil change has gotten the dealer to acknowledge that 10,000 miles is not much different from 5,000 miles per motor degradation.

In all honesty I believe all synthetic oil is superior today and with cars being manufactured to tighter tolerance and made to last, probably any synthetic oil will be good for a vehicle. Me...I change the oil myself and I picked something that can last for extend oil changes. My vehicles have shown this to work for me. And for the record I have never done a UOA but wish I had done it at the beginning. Of course, as they say YMMV...

Do you honestly think a small time blender like Amsoil knows anything Mobil doesnt? For starters botique brands purchase their base oils and additives from company's like Mobil, Shell, etc. They produce nothing other than finished product made from t blending other people's components. With that said do you think Mobil and the other big boys sell them the best components?
It's also worth noting that Amsoil test are often BS. At on they used the four ball test on motor oils. Problem is the test was designed for testing extreme pressure properties of gear oils.

That's why I use it . That and the cold start benifits of good synthetics.

Don't forget that it retains its viscosity better than dinosaur oil in extreme heat too. Vehicle engines get really hot when you're idling in a bumper to bumper commute on a hot afternoon or anytime the temperature is in triple digits .

I go 7,500 miles between oil changes using Mobil 1 in my 2016 Chevy Colorado. 37K miles so far, no problems.

I drive a 2014 Tundra Crew 4x4. It came with full synthetic as well, and the rec'd oil change interval is 5000 miles. I was told at the local dealer that does the oil changes that the 2x4's were still 10k, the 4x4's interval is 5k.

JG you have the Flex Fuel Engine Correct?

I run Mobil One in my vehicles...and do 20 or 25,000 mile changes... with filters every 5K...

My last two changes, samples sent to Blackstone...

The Honda Pilot had 22,500 miles on the 0w30 oil.. the report told me to run the next change another 3K longer
if I wanted to...

The Oil from the 4 Runner was also 0w30.. that one had 25K on that oil... 2 filter changes at 10K
and 5K on the current filter... they told me to run the next change another 3K on that one also..

both had a TBN of 3+ on the oil samples sent in...

The filters I use are NAPA Golds...

The Pilot has 240K at that oil change interval on the engine..

the 4 Runner, was bought 30 years ago this month... it has 550,500 on the vehicle right now..

at 537,000 we put a new head on it, as it needed a valve job finally...

your mileage may vary...

I use Rotella in my Cummins. I change every 4000 miles.

Our Camry came with full synthetic, and the dealer suggested oil changes every 10,000 miles, with a trip into the shop to rotate tires every 5K. It's my first Toyota, so that's what we do. It's only got 63K miles on it, mostly highway, and it runs like a top, and a lot better than I'd suspect a 4 banger to do.

Wifey took it in today for servicing (it's her car). She's still gone, so I haven't heard of any issues yet.

Pretty good car. We've put 30K miles on it in two years time. Excellent car.

I've always changed my own oil and I'm a big believer in getting rid of the dirt with more frequent oil and filter changes. I change mine every 2,000 miles when the odometer rolls around to an even number. What convinced me to change that often was when I changed my daughter's oil when she would run it 3 or 4,000 miles. I use an old white refrigerator pan for my drain pan and you would not believe the sludge difference between 2,000 mile oil and 3,000 mile oil. I ran Amsoil in my old truck back when vehicles had carburetors and I did an oil analysis at 10,000 miles. The oil was full of fuel dilution, carbon and what ever bearings are made from. Back then it was a diester based oil and it ate through the seals, so that truck leaked from everything where I had Amsoil. I ran Mobil 1 synthetic oil in a turbo charged Saab when it first came out when it was pretty thin at 5w20 I think it was. It did keep the engine very clean, but I replaced two turbochargers at $750. each because the seals went out. That was not an inter-cooled turbo, but since those turbo shafts ran on an oil supported bushing, I've always blamed the thin Mobil 1 oil for the failures. I figure that today's long oil drain intervals are brought to you by the same manufacturers that want you to buy another new vehicle. I was talking to a cab driver in NYC and he told me that they change their oil every week.

Or you could just change the filter and add a quart....

Based on UOA’s I’ve had done this is a giant waste of money but if it makes you feel better then get after it. Today’s oils are designed to last a lot longer than 2000 miles and the color of the oil isn’t an indicator of whether it’s still good or not

Well sure I'm old school, but one of the products of combustion is carbon and today's engines are built with lots tighter tolerances than they were in years past and carbon is an abrasive. Low twenty something dollars for five quarts of good petroleum oil and a good filter from Walmart is cheap presence of mind to get rid of the dirt. I'm sure that the fuel injected engines today have way less fuel dilution than we had up here in the frozen north with the chokes on the carburetors. I had this conversation with our east coast sales guy who subsequently called me from the repair shop to eat crow when he thought that he could run his oil 25,000 miles because the advertising said that he could.

“Get rid of the dirt”? Lol. Ok

Seriously, proper filtration is key and with a makeup quart per filter change your tbn stays high and you’ll be good but if you really think you have “dirt” in your oil then keep on doing what you’re doing because nobody can reason with that 😂

All the oil filters have a bypass valve and once the filter media is plugged from those long drain intervals, the pressure differential opens that valve and unfiltered oil is what is lubricating your engine. That carbon black color in my drain oil is coming from somewhere and it darn sure doesn't look like it did when I put in the new oil. Use a white catch pan the next time you change your oil instead of the black one and then look at the crap that your oil filter is missing.

Even the cheap filters would last longer than 2000 miles. If you use a quality oil and a quality filter you can easily do 5000 mile OCIs

If your oil filter is plugged after 2000 miles you have big problems

I don't know where the manual tells you about oil changes, I just wait for the computer to tell me when. The oils that we have today are good enough, you don't need to pay a bunch of money for synthetic. The computer tells you when to change oil, due to your mileage and driving habits.

I really doubt that Amsoil will save an engine over regular maintenance with standard oil, and the thought that it needs changed every 2-3000 miles is not true.

Hah, I use those two brands, but kinda backwards from you. I change oil & filter once a year, i don't put more than 15k miles per year.

I like Schaeffer's SoyShield, ATF & their chassis greases, but prefer Amsoil bearing grease, diff lubes & engine oil (as Schaeffer's doesn't make a full synthetic 10w30 diesel oil that I know of).

I have a 2015 tacoma change oil at 5000 with mobile 1

Tundra uses a cartridge filter , it does not have a bypass. The reason being what I bolded above.

Did you go with Amsoil?

I should've posted sooner, but yeah, it's the real deal. The company I manage uses it exclusively in our fleet of vehicles; never an oil related failure in the 18 years I've been here and we've pushed a few of our trucks over 300,000, but you have to give credit to engine design and a routine maintenance schedule, BUT these trucks do not see an easy life.

I use Amsoil personally as well; no issues. My last Suburban was sold with 245,000 on the clock and still ran like new, but those 5.7L engines are great. I currently have a Silverado with 80,000 on the odometer and a Ram 2500 with 118,000 Amsoil in both since they were new. No issues.

IMO, they make some of the best gear oil on the market.

It is still under the Toyota vehicle maintenance plan until I roll 25k on it. I think the dealer is using Mobil 1 full synthetic and I paid/pay for the 5k 15k 25k oil and filter change . Bottom line is I am not running it past 5k without an oil and filter change ....too set in my ways to change. It was hard enough going from the 3k oil/filter change interval

I should've been more specific. Our company vehicles use the Amsoil Signature Series/25,000 mile oil change, I personally run the OE Series oil and change it every 5,000, BUT in the aforementioned Suburban, I did the once a year/25,000 oil change.

I'm like you, I like a 5,000 or 7,500 mile oil change.

I have a question. Those of you who are running 20K oil change intervals on quality synthetic, are you putting on that many miles in a year or does it take longer?

Never used the Amsoil but have noticed products like Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" and "Annual Protection" advertise that they are good for 15 or 25K miles or up to one year. What if you only drive 6 or 7k a year on a vehicle? Technically, you are supposed to dump it but I don't really see why, especially if you get the vehicle out on the road occasionally and get everything heated up.

I know the only real way to answer this is to have a lab analyze the oil but just wondering if anyone had any opinions.

Your last sentence hit the nail on the head, the only true way of knowing is through UOAs (Used Oil Analysis)

I can see the additives in oil performing to a certain mileage threshold, but have never understood the "or up to one year" statement. Oil doesn't use a calendar, so perhaps certain chemicals in the ad pack deteriorate with time.

I put about 10k per year on average.

I generally change once every 2 years after initial oil analysis showed the oil was still excellent.

On an engine just switched over from mineral oil, I'll change the filter at a 1 year interval & top up with a quart.

On an engine thats had a couple changes already, I just change oil/filter every 2 years.

Oil analysis has shown that the Amsoil is good to go for a couple years as long as a quality filter is used.

The Amsoil filters have Donaldson synthetic media inside, I generally just use the cheaper Donaldson branded synthetic media oil filters that are identical.

I can tell ya Amsoil is no scam. It is very good oil. I wont say it's better than Schaeffers or Mobil 1 and none are scam. I just can't figure the hate for Amsoil but the love for M1. ? I have run Amsoil in my cars several times @ 35,000 mi. between changes when I first got wires 03 Dodge Stratus 2 dr. 4 cylinder when it had 36K on the meter. We ran it two times @ 35K oil changes two times and after that I went with diesel engine oil and changed every 10k. I sold it with 185K on it and has about 200K on it now and still now problem with the motor . It does burn a qt. about every 5,000 mi. however. If Amsoil was a scam why is it still a perfectly good running engine and an engine we did not take very good care of with 10k oil changes with regular oil to boot. I do use diesel motor oil because I believe it has more and better additives. I also ran Amsoil in my 05 GMC diesel . I bought it at 24K , filled it with AMsoil Series 3000 5w30 oil, the best they have. Ran it 46,000 mi. with filter change every 15K with oil test . At 18K it was good, at 33K it was good so I called and tested them about it. " How can this oil still be good. They assured me with those numbers the oil is still good. At 46K the iron got a bit high. I changed again , Amsoil 3000 5w30/ Amsoil filters. I ran it 39,000 mi. and at the 38K test it was a bit high but still safe but it was oxidizing. Out it went. Again, I ran it 25,000 mi. and did not care to do the $25 oil test again so out it went. So, 110,000 mi. with 3 oil fills . I now just go buy Shell Rotella 10w30 T3 ( Yellow) but more recently Shell Rotella T6 ( blue container) and change it every 10k with t3 and have 15K on Shell T6. I will change in the spring when it has about 15,000 on the T6. The truck has 244K and uses 1qt. in about 6,000 mi. I dont know how man people have to write stories like me and Seafire about changing oil as seldom as we do. Heck , Sharpsman here on the fire sais he does not change oil at all, so I PM him and he insisted he keeps him trucks about 250k and still no problems with him. Although, I should not speak for Sharpsman , but he did say this on the 24Hr. Also, I would like to add , I have ran Amsoil in my 25 horse Merc outboard @ 100/1 or 128/1 mix. Yes, one ounce per gallon. I have been running nothing but Amsoil 100/1 - 128/1 in my chainsaws for 20 years with no problems at all.

I know guys that do it at 10k on amesoil but I know I couldn't do it so I stick with regular old chevron...320+ with 5 k oil changes so why bother..