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I think what I'm looking for is a M 80 neon test light....I've got the old service manual and have managed to get the engine running pretty good, but it still has an intermittent miss/burp both at low and high RPMs (carbs are good).... the only test procedures they give for the CD ignition system are with the neon tester.... anybody have one they'd be willing to sell or let me use???
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PM replied to....I'm still looking for the tester....
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The "Stevens" model S80 will also work...
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Campfire Savant
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Campfire Savant
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Hocked my wife’s diamond ring, bought me an outboard Evinrude.
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Damn thing wouldn't fire up yesterday...even with starting fluid...I guess it's time to break out the $2 dummie light tester and hook up a remote starter....
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Damn thing wouldn't fire up yesterday...even with starting fluid...I guess it's time to break out the $2 dummie light tester and hook up a remote starter.... Whirl it over holding each plug wire one at a time. That will tell you if you have a spark problem. Don't need no test light.
Last edited by butchlambert1; 10/22/17.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Old enough /with points and condenser?... If so cut it out and add electronic ing...simple easy and u never look back !
I work harder than a ugly stripper....
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What year and model motor is it?
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What year and model motor is it? It's a 1972...model 50273C....CD ignition. Old enough /with points and condenser?... If so cut it out and add electronic ing...simple easy and u never look back ! No...like I said in the OP, it's a CD (capacitor discharge) ignition. Little electronic switches inside the power pack open and close to both store and release current to get sent to the coils.
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Swifty
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Boy, I'd suspect a short somewhere, or a faulty coil. Look for something grounding out...
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Boy, I'd suspect a short somewhere, or a faulty coil. Look for something grounding out.. think these guys might have what you need. http://www.outboardignition.com/page1.asp. #511-9764.....I think...
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I can make a spark gap tester.... Yeah, but did you notice the price tag??? Hell, for $330 I can buy the parts for a new ignition system... Just a little while ago I went out and was fiddling around with it, & it's running again...I didn't do anything...the only difference between now and this morning and yesterday, is about 20 degrees...are any of the CD ignition components that susceptible to temps?
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I can make a spark gap tester.... Yeah, but did you notice the price tag??? Hell, for $330 I can buy the parts for a new ignition system... Just a little while ago I went out and was fiddling around with it, & it's running again...I didn't do anything...the only difference between now and this morning and yesterday, is about 20 degrees...are any of the CD ignition components that susceptible to temps? No but fuel mixture is. CD ignitions were never very good at igniting lean mixtures.
Swifty
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Joined: Oct 2010
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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What your problem is that you have one of those '72 Evinrude No Starts.
Kevin NRA Lifetime Member Retired, Fulltime RV'er
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Boy, I'd suspect a short somewhere, or a faulty coil. Look for something grounding out... On further inspection, it looks like the current stator charge coils have leaked fluid sometime in the past and it has hardened into an epoxy like substance on top of the engine...also hardened "drips" under the charge coils...I also found that there is a tiny amount of fuel spray coming out the carb on the #1 cylinder which means I probably have an issue with the top set of leaf plates....the good news is that both cylinders still have about 150 lbs. of compression, which is the only reason I even started trying to get this engine running in the first place....I think I'll just go ahead and sell my "kicker" motor so I can spring for a complete new ignition system....
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I finally got everything sorted out in case anybody was interested...I sold my kicker motor and ordered a complete new ignition system (timer base, stator, power pack, ignition switch) for a little under $400. I also had to order a gasket for the leaf plate (reed valves) which I found had a thin break causing the "burping" of fuel...beat the hell out of trying to find a serviceable reed valve assy. Replacing the stator and timer base/trigger sensor made the biggest difference, but since the throttle linkage also controls the timing, I had to first set the timing, then reconnect the throttle linkage and synchronize it with the timer base... the only part I put on that didn't seem to help with performance was the power pack, which will be nice to keep as a spare....I haven't had the time to put it in the lake and run it under a load, but with the "rabbit ears" on, it's purring like a new motor....
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