I use a Dozier and I prefer a toothier edge with his D2. It will still shave but it's not as hair popping sharp the way I sharpen it. A really hair popping edge is smooth and will dull easily. I prefer a toothier cutting edge. It will bite quick and keep that edge a long time.
I use a Red DMT diamond. It only needs touching up every couple deer.
Here is a demonstration of your theory in real life . . .
Here is the following on video which explains his covex theory. . .
Really,I don't need to watch a video to test my theory. I've been testing it for the last 30 years. What edge you need on a particular knife depends also on edge geometry,the steel,and the hardness. I've made all kinds of knives my friend, ground them differently,sharpened them differently,and actually used them in the field. I know from real experience what works and what doesn't. I've sharpened knives so sharp that they would cut arm hair without touching the skin. I've learned though that for a working knife in the real world it's just a waste of my time and effort to take a knife to that level of sharpness,because it will loose that perfect edge very quickly,and be right back to where I would have been had I quit when it was just simply shaving sharp. Thanks for the video though.
RH, like Dr. Wako says it is a matter of preference. Perhaps the videos will be useful for other readers of the thread that don't have your experience. (like me )
"All that the South has ever desired was that the Union, as established by our forefathers, should be preserved, and that the government, as originally organized, should be administered in purity and truth." – Robert E. Lee
I use two oil stones with a total of 4 different grits and finish with a strop. The stones were inherited so I don't really know what grit, brand, quality, etc of stones I'm using, I just know they work for me.
Tom
Anyone who thinks there's two sides to everything hasn't met a M�bius strip.
I use a lansky diamond set and finish with Black hard Arkansas stone on my good hunting knives. Knock around pocket knives and kitchen knives a chefs choice diamond sharpener.
I use this steel that was my grandfathers. A steel can't put an edge on a knife. It restores an edge that's already there by standing the microscopic edges back up after they've been bent over.
“In a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell
It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
But the best way to sharpen a knife is on the widow of a car.
I know it sounds weird but it works.
Interesting idea, I thought I'd give it a go. Holy crap, I shredded both doors on my CJ5 and got into the top before I went back to the Lansky! Doesn't work for sheit man!
That Lansky was way cheaper than a new Jeep top too!
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
I use a Dozier and I prefer a toothier edge with his D2. It will still shave but it's not as hair popping sharp the way I sharpen it. A really hair popping edge is smooth and will dull easily. I prefer a toothier cutting edge. It will bite quick and keep that edge a long time.
I use a Red DMT diamond. It only needs touching up every couple deer.
Here is a demonstration of your theory in real life . . .
Here is the following on video which explains his covex theory. . .
Really,I don't need to watch a video to test my theory. I've been testing it for the last 30 years. What edge you need on a particular knife depends also on edge geometry,the steel,and the hardness. I've made all kinds of knives my friend, ground them differently,sharpened them differently,and actually used them in the field. I know from real experience what works and what doesn't. I've sharpened knives so sharp that they would cut arm hair without touching the skin. I've learned though that for a working knife in the real world it's just a waste of my time and effort to take a knife to that level of sharpness,because it will loose that perfect edge very quickly,and be right back to where I would have been had I quit when it was just simply shaving sharp. Thanks for the video though.
RH, like Dr. Wako says it is a matter of preference. Perhaps the videos will be useful for other readers of the thread that don't have your experience. (like me )
Yea,I guess that did sound pretty arrogant. Sorry about that.
What I really mean is that knives need to be sharp. I want my knives sharp,but I don't obsess about them being scary sharp. I mean surgically sharp,because that surgically sharp edge has to be delicate to be that sharp. It doesn't take much before that very delicate edge will either roll if the metal is soft or micro chip if it is really hard. That super surgically sharp edge will quickly be reduced to just a normal shaving sharp.that I could have put on the knife with a whole lot less trouble.
Personally,I think one of the best things people can do is to learn to use a good sharp knife for sharp knife things and a different tool for rougher work. If they would do that,they could get rid of secondary bevels,have a much thinner blade profile that would be easier to sharpen and cut better in soft tissue. The reason makers don't do that though is because some idiot wants to baton through knotty wood with a 4" hunter and see if the edge will hold up to cutting through bone,wire,and nails. I make my personal knives much thinner and carry a hatchet for chopping.
I agree with those who have said that a slightly "toothier" edge is superior to a surgically sharp blade. A blade that has been sharpened to that level will indeed dull rather quickly. I have noticed that a toothier edge does slice better - think of it as a micro-serrations that enable a blade to bite, thereby slicing/cutting easier. Another way to look at the benefit of a toothier edge is to see which is more effective at cutting sisal rope. The toothier edge will bite into the rope enabling the blade to cut the rope more effectively; whereas, a surgically sharp blade will simply slice across the rope without cutting deeply at all.
I use Arkansas oil stones to sharpen my knives to a level that is shaving sharp, but not surgically sharp. Unless the edge is in very poor shape, I start with a medium Arkansas stone and, occasionally, I will progress to a hard Arkansas stone. I then use an oiled leather strop mounted on a wood base to dress the edge and remove the wire edge. If a blade is in poor condition and I need to establish a proper bevel, or remove chips, I will start with a medium/coarse Norton India stone and then progress to a fine India stone before I move to my Arkansas stones.
I have used ceramic rods, but I view such contraptions as a means to maintain or touch-up an edge, rather than as a tool to fully and properly sharpen a blade.
Last edited by High_Noon; 10/27/17.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Man, I've just start d buying cheap knives and using a big bastard file. I can get one hair popping sharp with that. I could never learn to sharpen a knife worth a damn until I learned how to sharpen broadheads with a file.
I have tried for years to properly sharpen my knives, but can never get that new knife edge. I have the lanskys, and Arkansas stones and several other gadgets that are suppose to work. Finally gave up last year and bought a Outdoor Edge knife with replaceable blades and really like how easy it is to gut and skin now.
^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^
I bought the replaceable blade Outdoor Edge knife and I love it. I've done 2 Antelope and a doe Muley and it's about time to change the first blade. Blades are cheap from my local Sportsman's Warehouse. I carry two extras in the sheath and have about a dozen more at home. I have lots of hunting knives and many are pretty damn sharp, but none compare to the razor sharp replaceables.
"I refuse to waste my common sense on those who have been educated beyond their intelligence"
All you need to know about Democrats is they call American citizens "Deplorables" and illegal immigrants "Dreamers"!
I have tried for years to properly sharpen my knives, but can never get that new knife edge. I have the lanskys, and Arkansas stones and several other gadgets that are suppose to work. Finally gave up last year and bought a Outdoor Edge knife with replaceable blades and really like how easy it is to gut and skin now.
^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^
I bought the replaceable blade Outdoor Edge knife and I love it. I've done 2 Antelope and a doe Muley and it's about time to change the first blade. Blades are cheap from my local Sportsman's Warehouse. I carry two extras in the sheath and have about a dozen more at home. I have lots of hunting knives and many are pretty damn sharp, but none compare to the razor sharp replaceables.
Those are box cutters.
Not knives.
Dave
Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
I have both the worksharp and the lansky diamond hones. Either one will get a knife really frickin' sharp. To maintain the edge though, I just give them a few swipes on the JA Henckels steel that came with the kitchen knives.
I like a sharp knife....The hunting knives and kitchen knives are kept in a condition my better half calls "scary sharp"
I've got the Spyderco and have been really happy with it. I didn't know what the 30* back bevel was for, but since figuring it out, I've been doing them all this way. Seems to help hold the edge a bit.
I still have all my Arkie stones, but they hardly get used. Never was great using them even after a ton of practice.
Screw you! I'm voting for Trump again!
Ecc 10:2 The heart of the wise inclines to the right, but that of a fool to the 24HCF.
You really don't have to sharpen as much as people do. Go to a butcher shop and watch them. A good steel will bring back a lot of blades. Sharpening takes away steel, using a steel brings the edge into alignment. Learn to use a steel and save your blade.
Only on softer steel knives. Hair dulls a blade faster than meat and a blade made from D2 will hold it's edge better against that but is harder to sharpen. Depending on the knife I will use stones and strop or stone and steel