There are only 3 countries in the world that still have widespread use of leaded fuel. The US isn't one of them. I'm not sure where you get gas in Milwaukee, but I can assure you none of it is leaded.
For my 2 stroke engines, I get AV100 gas at one of the small air fields locally. AV100 gas is 100 octane aviation gas and it is leaded and has no EtOH.
I would call the small air fields in your area if looking for non EtOH gas
Might be a good idea to change out the CS muffler if it is one that has a catalytic converter if burning leaded fuel.
It would be a GREAT idea to change out the muffler if a guy makes the unwise choice to run leaded fuel in a newer saw. Not to mention how much leaded fuel will screw up the electronic fuel/air mixture on most current saws.
Nonethanol gas is fine, unleaded gas in newer saws ain't a good idea.
Stabil Marine is everybody's friend when it comes to small engines.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
My MS200 has a rear handle. It is the handiest little beast. I paid a small fortune for it NIB shortly after they were discontinued, it was money well spent.
Ain't they great. The replacement ms201 is like $650......
It's 8.5lbs. of smiles.
Oh yeah. And so much less wear and tear on the Ol body.
Does anyone here have the saw chain sharpener that Harbor Freight carries? Chicago brand
If so, are they worth the $30?
Have one? No Are they worth it? No........a lot of work for poor results. Get the $89-119 one. From northern hydraulics and go to Arboristsite and search for how to threads.
To me, mine was well worth the thirty-thirtyfive bucks.
With a file, I can get a chain to about 30% of new condition. It will cut, but it throws sawdust instead of chips.
The saw shop can make a chain cut like new, but they charge half the price of a new chain to sharpen one, and it is half worn out at that time. No economy there.
The Chicago Electric grinder is a little sloppy. It does not grind a like new chain. But it will come within 90%.
For occasional use, like mine, 2 to 4 sharpenings per year, it is fine.
If a guy is sharpening a dozen chains every week, a $150 to $300 grinder would be good economics as it would greatly extend the life of the saw chain vs the cheap plastic imitation.
We heat solely with wood[very hard-wood-mostly standing dead black locust], wrap your knuckles on it and it's like hitting concrete...only harder. It's pretty tough on saw chains. Super sharp makes a big difference.
Does anyone here have the saw chain sharpener that Harbor Freight carries? Chicago brand
If so, are they worth the $30?
Have one? No Are they worth it? No........a lot of work for poor results. Get the $89-119 one. From northern hydraulics and go to Arboristsite and search for how to threads.
To me, mine was well worth the thirty-thirtyfive bucks.
With a file, I can get a chain to about 30% of new condition. It will cut, but it throws sawdust instead of chips.
The saw shop can make a chain cut like new, but they charge half the price of a new chain to sharpen one, and it is half worn out at that time. No economy there.
The Chicago Electric grinder is a little sloppy. It does not grind a like new chain. But it will come within 90%.
For occasional use, like mine, 2 to 4 sharpenings per year, it is fine.
If a guy is sharpening a dozen chains every week, a $150 to $300 grinder would be good economics as it would greatly extend the life of the saw chain vs the cheap plastic imitation.
We heat solely with wood[very hard-wood-mostly standing dead black locust], wrap your knuckles on it and it's like hitting concrete...only harder. It's pretty tough on saw chains. Super sharp makes a big difference.
Yeah. When it's dead a while I often get Sparks......
Unless you catch it quick, full chisel goes from sharp to kinda dull to real dull sorta quick.
If I'm cutting a lot of it, a semi chisel or chipper is what I use. More durable.
I burn about 90% black locust. If cutting dead I shallow up the grind angles on the chain to provide more strength to the cutters edge and add more depth to the guide teeth. Will not cut as fast but lasts a whole lot longer. Keep a bucket of chains ground that way. I have an Oregon grinder but after the changing the angles I still use a file unless a chain is messed up. Have found grinders waste more chain but if you do not want to learn how to file right it is the best option. A tooth on a chain is a compound angle tapering from front to back and from side to centerline. if the point of the teeth on one side gets longer than the other, the saw will cut a radii instead of straight as the longer side takes a heavier chip. Dead locust will spark pretty cool
I burn about 90% black locust. If cutting dead I shallow up the grind angles on the chain to provide more strength to the cutters edge and add more depth to the guide teeth. Will not cut as fast but lasts a whole lot longer. Keep a bucket of chains ground that way. I have an Oregon grinder but after the changing the angles I still use a file unless a chain is messed up. Have found grinders waste more chain but if you do not want to learn how to file right it is the best option. A tooth on a chain is a compound angle tapering from front to back and from side to centerline. if the point of the teeth on one side gets longer than the other, the saw will cut a radii instead of straight as the longer side takes a heavier chip. Dead locust will spark pretty cool
If a grinder is taking too much.....it's the man not the machine.
A guy said the same thing to me and I blacked the cutters and then ground top and bottom of tooth not touching the middle.
I've also had a shop blue all the cutters and take half the cutter with the grinder set wrong. That was the day I got my first grinder.
But I was a tool and cutter grinder by trade so I had a head start. Lol
There is a "feel" to grinding that some folks never acquire.........just like filing.
I do a lot of chains......lots of grinders. I don't change wheels.
You are right about the grinders and the man, I just like to maintain a sharp chain with files rather than resorting to the grinder. Most folks don't understand the way a cutter cuts. Worst thing about a grinder is that for most folks they read the recommended angles to set at and don't realize that when they swivel to the other side the cut will be different
Yup, if you set the grinder so that it's just barely making sparks, you'll touch up the tooth just like you will with a file only more consistently and more quickly. A rocked out chain might take 3 passes to clean up.
If you operate it like a chop saw, results will be as expected.
You are right about the grinders and the man, I just like to maintain a sharp chain with files rather than resorting to the grinder. Most folks don't understand the way a cutter cuts. Worst thing about a grinder is that for most folks they read the recommended angles to set at and don't realize that when they swivel to the other side the cut will be different
Yup. You have to reset when you switch.
The Silveys I have are much better than my Oregons.......but not bad. Just a little tweak.
Sorry about that, I am doing a muffler mod on my 025, And waiting for my buck shot muffler and a high flow air filter for my 046, Check out the chainsaw a guy, he builds some nice West Coast muscle saws.
Okay, I fibbed earlier. My saw is he Stihl MS 310. Same displacement as the 362, but the farm and ranch model instead of the pro model.
I picked up the Stihl 25 inch bar and appropriate chain today.
If you want more power a muffler mod and carb retune will get it.
No, I do not need more power. Since I gave up the wood stove, I seldom attack anything over ten inches diameter these days. The longer bar is just to prevent bending from the waist.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
