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243 Loctite (surface insensitive) on clean external & internal threads. Same blue loctite on clean surfaces of receiver/ring base. I use a in-lb torque wrench. For cleaning I use PVC solvent.

Problem with the short fasteners we use is there's for practical purposes no fastener stretch.Long fasteners stretch (like a spring) when torqued/tightened properly. This helps with fastener torque retention.

The condition driftless describes (spring in the ring) could provide torque retention.

For assemblies where short fasteners are needed, it is common to see bolted joint designers us spring washers (Belleville washer) to help retain fastener torque.


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Originally Posted by TooDogs
243 Loctite (surface insensitive) on clean external & internal threads. Same blue loctite on clean surfaces of receiver/ring base. I use a in-lb torque wrench. For cleaning I use PVC solvent.

Problem with the short fasteners we use is there's for practical purposes no fastener stretch.Long fasteners stretch (like a spring) when torqued/tightened properly. This helps with fastener torque retention.

The condition driftless describes (spring in the ring) could provide torque retention.

For assemblies where short fasteners are needed, it is common to see bolted joint designers us spring washers (Belleville washer) to help retain fastener torque.


You seem to have a pretty solid understanding how bolted joints work; not many do. Stretch like a spring is what keeps joints tight, with or without Loctite.

Something to consider though in this application that's different than most bolted joints - the spring in the ring screw joint isn't the screws (in most cases), it's the scope tube and/or the rings. With an air gap between most top and bottom rings, usually we're stretching or compressing the bolted parts before the fasteners.

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No matter how much Loctite or Devcon you use, if the scope is a POS you are doomed before you start.


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Formi, have you ever had an aluminum picatinny rail fail? I really like the idea of the actions with an integral rail.

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Originally Posted by ctsmith
Formi, have you ever had an aluminum picatinny rail fail? I really like the idea of the actions with an integral rail.



Only Chinese knock offs. Aluminum is what I normally choose.

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Formidilosus - question...I am following your guide step by step as I mount my new NF SHV 3-10x42 on my LAW Professional 280 ackley. The rifle came with steel 2 piece pic. bases that seem solid and I plan to use them with burris xtr low rings. I realize that 2 piece bases aren't as strong as one piece units, but done correctly should I have any worry about the solidness of the 2 piece steel bases, burris rings, and the NF SHV as a complete system?

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You can get 18 inch pounds with the Allen wrench in that configuration? I must be over tightening.


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Originally Posted by Hiaring8
Formidilosus - question...I am following your guide step by step as I mount my new NF SHV 3-10x42 on my LAW Professional 280 ackley. The rifle came with steel 2 piece pic. bases that seem solid and I plan to use them with burris xtr low rings. I realize that 2 piece bases aren't as strong as one piece units, but done correctly should I have any worry about the solidness of the 2 piece steel bases, burris rings, and the NF SHV as a complete system?


You should be good.





Originally Posted by jimmyp
You can get 18 inch pounds with the Allen wrench in that configuration? I must be over tightening.



I can get way more than 18 in-lbs with the little end. Most adults get between 16-20 in-lbs doing it that way.

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I believe most people are over tightening.


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Why am I seeing pictures of scopes with orange tape on them? I must have missed a memo.


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I personally don't think there is such thing as over tightening, at least until the screwhead breaks or if you're using steel rings that are just a touch too small or the scope body a touch too big. I can see scope tubes getting crushed in that case.

I welded some steel bases onto a rifle not too long ago, then welded the steel rings to the bases and put a small tack weld on the ring piece joints once I had the scope in place. I honestly can't say I regretted that choice. It is a cheaper play rifle, and a quick touch with an angle grinder would remove the weld if/when I need to get the scope off, but I haven't see any negative to doing that yet.

I do think I will try the nail polish trick on several other rifles I have laying around here though. Good idea.



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Form,
Quick question. Are the Burris XTR bases about the best two piece bases out there that work with picatinny rings like the Seekins and Warne Mountain Techs?

Last edited by Kimber7man; 01/16/18. Reason: Spelling

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Originally Posted by RJY66
Why am I seeing pictures of scopes with orange tape on them? I must have missed a memo.


In my case, focus lock.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Won't the tip of a soldering iron in little screw heads help when breaking Loctite adhesion?


Yes. It doesn't take long to get the screw threads hot enough to melt the adhesive used, even using red loctite. But, don't let it cool before getting the screw out of the hole and the remaining loctite out of the hole and the screw because when it solidifies again it retains the adhesive property. All of the epoxies and the loctites are plastics.

* The blue loctite adhesive bond can be broken by hand. The red loctite needs to be melted.

** I haven't tried the colored nail polish to be a quick check to determine if the scope has slipped in the rings. I plan on doing that as well as putting it on the top of the screws after the screws are all installed and everything is plumb and level.

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Great write up mirrors what I do minus a couple steps. I like to coat the scope where the rings clamp with rosin. This will prevent slippage and should it slip you will see a line of the rosin.

I also like to ensure I am tightening the rings down equally. I tighten opposing screws slowly. Eyeing the gap between the ring top and bottom. Once they appear close I use a feller gauge to get a equal gap left and right then I torque to final spec.

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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
This how I do it, and why. Every single problem we have with optics moving, or screws coming loose is due to not degreasing, not using thread locker, and not torquing correctly. What most miss, is that the rifle is a system- bedding, action screws, bases, rings, and scope all matter if your goal is a static zero.


Well that's just a whole pile of awesomeness. Bravo!

Question: see any rust issues in the screws/holes after some months/years in the field?


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I would like to add the idea of using electrical tape as a laid as friction tape to the inside of the rings. I have used his for a long time and the scope stays in place with a side benefit being no ring marks on the scope.

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Originally Posted by mike7mm08
Great write up mirrors what I do minus a couple steps. I like to coat the scope where the rings clamp with rosin. This will prevent slippage and should it slip you will see a line of the rosin.

I also like to ensure I am tightening the rings down equally. I tighten opposing screws slowly. Eyeing the gap between the ring top and bottom. Once they appear close I use a feller gauge to get a equal gap left and right then I torque to final spec.



i use rosin too

excellent very clear and informative post by the op.Learned a few new things

thanks

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Form, how's that Mini Grendel working out for you? Which model(barrel) is it? What are you using it for? What load(s) are you shooting in it?

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