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JGray,
I don't remove any wood from the tip, just rough it up enough to hold the bedding compound firmly. At the rear of the forend I file off any dark spots, indicating the wood's been compressed by firmer contact with the action, no matter where they are. Thank you!
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JGray,
I don't remove any wood from the tip, just rough it up enough to hold the bedding compound firmly. At the rear of the forend I file off any dark spots, indicating the wood's been compressed by firmer contact with the action, no matter where they are. I appreciate this advice. I'm about to get my project gun back and will be shooting it in benchrest matches right away. It shot like crazy in the factory take-off stocks that I modified into patterns. I'm hoping it shoots like that when I get it. If it doesn't, this is the first thing I will do. I gotta make it shoot good enough so I don't make a complete fool of myself in our local club matches. Thanks.
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Dick, For over 30 years , I owned No 1s I have done pretty much what John B has done . I have both used pressure points and a total free float. Never had a No 1 that was not a solid MOA or less shooter with handloads.I have had a few in Varmint calibers that averaged closer to 1/2 MOA.
The basics of tweeking the barrel bedding are the same as a bolt gun once you solidly glass bed the forend to the three contact points on the forend hanger.
Once that is done, if you insist on a bedding pad then, you need to make sure the back edge is not touching the action to prevent any fore and aft binding as John mentions .
If you free float the barrel to not contact the hanger or forend ,the contact of the forend and action at the rear becomes moot ...
The only other issue with Number Ones can be binding between the factory quarter rib recoil studs in the as the barrel heats .That is not going to be an issue due to your scope and mount setup on your .222
IMHO, since your new triple Duece is going to be an target gun ,I would think very strongly about neatly free floating that barrel. Let your handloads fine tune the groups. Leave that forend out of the equation and treat it like a real benchrest rifle. I bet it'll shoot like one;)
Last edited by jk16; 06/01/17.
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[quote=jk16]Dick, For over 30 years , I owned No 1s I have done pretty much what John B has done . I have both used pressure points and a total free float. Never had a No 1 that was not a solid MOA or less shooter with handloads.I have had a few in Varmint calibers that averaged closer to 1/2 MOA.
The basics of tweeking the barrel bedding are the same as a bolt gun once you solidly glass bed the forend to the three contact points on the forend hanger.
Once that is done, if you insist on a bedding pad then, you need to make sure the back edge is not touching the action to prevent any fore and aft binding as John mentions .
If you free float the barrel to not contact the hanger or forend ,the contact of the forend and action at the rear becomes moot ...
The only other issue with Number Ones can be binding between the factory quarter rib recoil studs in the as the barrel heats .That is not going to be an issue due to your scope and mount setup on your .222
IMHO, since your new triple Duece is going to be an target gun ,I would think very strongly about neatly free floating that barrel. Let your handloads fine tune the groups. Leave that forend out of the equation and treat it like a real benchrest rifle. I bet it'll shoot like one;)
I've done this so far exactly as I would any other custom rifle. The fore end is inletted very tight. I will shoot it exactly as is and hope for the best. Making many modifications will be complicated with the escutcheon and all.
However, it is meant to shoot in matches and I'm guessing that I will end up doing exactly as you say.
When I started I wanted a match rifle that was more elegant than most BR guns. They tend to be long on accuracy and short on elegant. I'm anticipating a lot of very careful work to actually make this shoot the way it did in the pattern stocks whilst retaining my version of elegant.
When I test fired it I got a group in the low 1's at 50 yds. and one that was about 3/8" at 100 yds. I know it would shoot then... we'll see how it does in the new stocks. I'm totally ready with my loading bench all set up and 100 neck turned and primed Lapua match cases just waiting for a gun.
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Over the decades, I've owned No.1 "red pads" in .223, .22-250, .357Mag., .30-06, .45-70, and .375 Ouch & Ouch. Influenced by Jon R. Sundra's article, mentioned by LeonHitchcox, above, I epoxy bedded the three forearm hanger points, but didn't see much point in keeping the forearm clear of the receiver, so I bedded that too, on all the rifles. Then, I entirely free floated all barrels, just enough so I could not squeeze the forearms enough to make contact with the barrels. They all shot marvelously. As an example, I put 20 300 gr. Sierra BTs through the .375 off the bench at 100 yards one day (a sobering experience) with the last five going into an inch. Trouble was, I couldn't get anyone to answer the phone I kept hearing, so I didn't do that anymore.
Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.
Steve
Every day’s an adventure.
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Congratulations on getting the 275 Rigby. I think you will like it. You might be interested in my comments about the Lipsey's 1A's in 275 Rigby here: www.classicsportingarms.com
El Numero Uno a Serious Collector of the Ruger No.1 rifle; a Modern Classic Sporting Arm
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Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.
Steve
Congrats, I bet it shoots well ![smile smile](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif)
"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."
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El_Numero_Uno and tex_n_cal,
Thanks, guys. It's due Monday.
Steve
Every day’s an adventure.
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Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.
Steve
Congrats, I bet it shoots well ![smile smile](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif) Haven't shot it yet. Still setting it up. Already installed the Kepplinger single set trigger, and the Leupold Vari-X II 1-4x20 (gloss) is on its way.
Every day’s an adventure.
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I have 3 No.1's 45-70, 375 H&H and 7x57 all newer rifles. The 45-70 with 405gr @1750fps handloads is an inch at 100yds 3 shot, the 375 H&H with 300gr Swift A Frames at 2500fps an inch the 7x57 which is an International 1 1/2" with Federal Premium 140gr Nosler. I suspect the 7x57 will do better with handloads, These are all 3 shot groups not 5. Guess I got lucky in the accuracy dept.
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![[Linked Image]](http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah264/DickWright/DSC_0005_zps4sa26v90.jpg) I got my No. 1 .222 just a day and a half before our local benchrest match. This is the first target I shot with the new gun in competition. Distance was 100 yds. Everything was brand new and I had to fire form cases. I had no practice with the Kepplinger trigger and managed to yank it pretty good on the number one target. That one aside, this was a fairly decent group.
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I had a #1 in 6 mm Rem with a varmint weight barrel. I didn't shoot for diddly so I returned it to Ruger and upon it's return it still didn't shoot for diddly. I again returned it and again when it returned to me it wasn't shooting anywhere like I wanted so I called them to ask what load they was using to test the rifle.....that's when I learned that 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards was their standard....if it shot that well it was shipped to the customer.......Folks, I ask you.....did you ever shoot prairie dogs with a 3" grouping rifle?
They are one gorgeous looking rifle and I sure hope they have improved them.....(a lot).....but sting me once......you know the rest of it. Over the years I have purchased way too many duds from Ruger and today there are no Rugers in my house and won't be ever again.
Last edited by vapodog; 06/18/17.
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I had a #1 in 6 mm Rem with a varmint weight barrel. I didn't shoot for diddly so I returned it to Ruger and upon it's return it still didn't shoot for diddly. I again returned it and again when it returned to me it wasn't shooting anywhere like I wanted so I called them to ask what load they was using to test the rifle.....that's when I learned that 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards was their standard....if it shot that well it was shipped to the customer.......Folks, I ask you.....did you ever shoot prairie dogs with a 3" grouping rifle?
They are one gorgeous looking rifle and I sure hope they have improved them.....(a lot).....but sting me once......you know the rest of it. Over the years I have purchased way too many duds from Ruger and today there are no Rugers in my house and won't be ever again. Hmm my .338 Win Mag #1 1st handload I tried out the gate (100 yds) ![[Linked Image]](http://i65.tinypic.com/97tj5l.jpg)
My dog is a member of the "Turd Like Clan"
Covert Trail Cameras are JUNK
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Hmm my .338 Win Mag #1 1st handload I tried out the gate (100 yds)
I didn't say they are all bad....only repeated what the folks at Ruger told me when I asked how they tested the gun for accuracy.....
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There's good coverage here an #1 accuracy. I've owned about 25 of them over the years. The only one I couldn't get to shoot MOA or near it was a 1976 1B in .270Win. I still own a few.
One thing about the No.1 is that it has a slow lock time. It takes concentration on the bench to hold steady and follow through with each shot.
Jim
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I have one of the first stainless with laminated stock. At 100 yards hole for hole-200yards 1 inch and 300 yards 2 1/8 inch. Harvested a mule deer at 440 yards with it. This is in 300 win mag and very heavy gun. Love the number ones.
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OP
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Thank you all who have replied to my question. I continue to be impressed by the depth of knowledge that exists here on the Campfire. You were all kind enough to take the time to post answers so it's the least I can do to tell you the REST of the story.
When I started this thread, I was really torn between my affection for Number 1's and my memories of frustrating afternoons at the range trying to get one or another of them to shoot decently. There was nice 7-08 on sale at the local Cabelas. Attractive wood with pronounced grain in the butt stock and a trace of fiddleback on the forend; if it shot well, it would be a really fun deer rifle. But, having been burned before I was cautious. I simply do not have the time or the patience to deal with a finicky rifle..... hence my question here as to how well the newer No. 1's shoot.
From what I read in your replies, the newer rifles have better barrels than the older red pad guns that have given me so much grief. Sooooo, thus emboldened by your encouragements, and knowing that I could sue your butts off if it didn't work out, I bought the rifle.....well, actually, that's not entirely true, my wife bought the rifle...it was my birthday. ( I have learned to always bring my long-suffering and indulgent spouse to gun shops on or around my birthday. I am ashamed...not really...to admit that over the years this tactic has resulted in some very nice additions to the collection.....last year a straight gripped, 20 gauge Fox Sterlingworth, bent for a left hander no less.I digress.)
Well, in spite of the twists and turns of this tale,that's not entirely the end of the story. Seeing that the 7-08 was on my wife's credit card, it only seems fitting to celebrate my eighth decade and my entry into full blown geezerhood, that I mark the occasion with a purchase of my own....and Number 1's were on sale and the price has gone up sharply this year ($1829 from Lipseys?!! ) and, well, I have always wanted a 1S in 30-06 and a 24 inch barrel would get the most of an '06 and, I am getting tired of knocking off stuff with synthetic stocked bolt actions that have no soul, and, and, and, damn...OK I bought it.
So there, because of you guys, I bought not one, but two new Number 1's. My impressions and preliminary shooting results follow.
You can fool all the people some of the time and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time.
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Let's start with the 7-08 first.
As I said earlier, the rifle has much nicer wood than most of the recent Number 1's I have seen. One of my criticisms of 1A's over the years is that they often seem butt heavy, but this particular rifle seems to balance nicely wearing a Leupold VX 2 2x-7x 32 . I replaced the number #5 rings that came with rifle with a set of low rings, but I need to exchange the rear rings for extended rings to allow the scope to come back another 1/2 inch . Why Ruger ships these rifles with high rings is a mystery...who in their right mind would put a 50 mm scope on a 1A? OK, well, maybe you would, but to my eye at least, a big objective lens just seems out of place here.
The trigger pull is heavy and creepy, measuring well off the high end of my trigger scale. Fit and finish is not up to the standards of older rifles.The wood sits noticeably proud of the receiver, not terrible, but not as well stocked as my older rifles. The polishing of the metal is not what it use to be either, but, again, it's not awful. It' just not as well finished as my previous Number 1's.The over all impression though is quite positive. This is a handsome rifle. The chamber seems to be short. The Sierra 140's I loaded to Sierra OAL were in full contact with the lands. I seated them 20 thou deeper.
I can hear you asking..... how does it shoot? Quick answer is, pretty well. I just grabbed a load that has shot well in other 7-08's, 140 gr. Sierra PH ,46 and 47 grs. of Win.760/H414 over a Fed 210 primer in Winchester cases..run out on all was less than .002. The heavy trigger pull was not conducive to fine accuracy and my bench technique was a little rusty, but the rifle seemed to want to shoot... groups measures just over 1.5''s usually with 4 in an inch or under with one hanging out. Happily, groups did not display any tendency to string vertically. Shooting the gun hot does not appear to affect group size. I am going to like this rifle, but the trigger needs to be worked on and I will install a red Pachmayr Decelerator pad on general principles. I will relieve the wood at the end of the back of forend so that it just barely touches the receiver. May or may not put a 1/4 tsp. of bedding compound at the front of the forend.
I entrusted the rifle to the care of a talented young gunsmith with instruction to fix the trigger, install a recoil pad... I know, it's a light recoiling 7-08... and take a file to the forend. I think I am really going to like this rifle.
There is an outside chance that this rifle will accompany me to Newfoundland for moose this fall. Having knocked off a couple moose with synthetic stocked '06's, I can't see any reason why a 7-08 Number 1 with a decent bullet wouldn't seal the deal.
OK, next are my impressions of the 1S 30-06. But the hour is late and the two single malts are taking their toll. Time for bed. I'll tell you about the 30-06 tomorrow. .
You can fool all the people some of the time and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time.
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Campfire Outfitter
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"There is an outside chance that this rifle will accompany me to Newfoundland for moose this fall. Having knocked off a couple moose with synthetic stocked '06's, I can't see any reason why a 7-08 Number 1 with a decent bullet wouldn't seal the deal."
It would be a good idea to pull the wood on those rifles and seal the insides. Every Ruger #1 I own (20) has only shown stain sprayed on and nothing resembling a sealing job.
I've seen the same on my Ruger M77s which in my book makes them fair weather rifles.
Case in point, a Ruger #1B in .300 Win. Mag. I took as the main rifle on an elk hunt. A fast moving weather front came in and there was some of the heaviest rain I've ever seen. The rifle and I were soaked to the skin. As far as the hunt went, we saw no elk. On the way home we stopped at a ranch to overnight, then hunt a few pheasants and head on home. While hunting, we saw a coyote running off with a pheasant in his mouth and the only rifle in the truck was my #1. Three shots and I never toughed him and no one could tell where the bullets were hitting.
A couple of days after getting home, I took the rifle to the range and couldn't even touch the paper. The guy next to me helped out by looking for the bullet strikes and said they were hitting just below the top of the berm which placed those hits over 6 feet higher than where I was aiming. Wasn't even enough adjustment in the scope to compensate. To make the this long sad story short, it took over 6 years in Tucson's very dry climate before that rifle could be used again. The stock on my rifle literally soaked up water like a sponge.
I hunt my #1's but when it gets wet, the McMillan stocked 30-06 comes out to play. Paul B.
Our forefathers did not politely protest the British.They did not vote them out of office, nor did they impeach the king,march on the capitol or ask permission for their rights. ----------------They just shot them. MOLON LABE
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Point well taken. I have given the gunsmith instructions to weather proof both rifles. My main concern would be the end of the buttstock under the recoil pad and especially where it meets the receiver. Had a few experiences like yours and in Newfoundland, the weather is your constant companion.
You can fool all the people some of the time and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time.
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