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Joined: Feb 2016
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Quick follow up on this for anyone who searches the internet in the future and has the same questions. I will NOT be threading the barrel or mounting a suppressor. In checking the manufacturer specs for threading the barrel to 7/16x28, the collar of the threads is trimmed down to about .375” OD. The bore size is .308”, meaning that the tip of the barrel would have a wall thickness of .0335”. If you don’t end up snapping the tip of your barrel off, you’ll stretch and contort it by repeatedly torquing down and unscrewing the silencer. If you think heating up a thin barrel causes your groupings to walk, imagine what it would do if your barrel is .033” thick, supporting a load, and regularly torqued on.

I might try it if the caliber was .223 or .243, maybe even up to 6.5 creedmoor. .308? Not a chance. It amazes me that Kimber is putting a 7/16” thread (with a thread pitch diameter of ~.413”) on .308 barrels. That means the tip of the barrel is ~1/20” thick at the muzzle.


"Pessimism never won any battle." - Dwight Eisenhower
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Joined: Nov 2015
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Just FYI, I've messaged a few times with a gunsmith in Colorado who will will thread thin barrels, then permanently mount a threaded step collar to act as a shoulder. The finished product looks kind of like the belled muzzles on the short Barretts. Anyway, from the minimum barrel diameters he gave me for each thread, my Montana could be threaded 9/16-24 with one of how collars at about 19" ( or shorter of course). Might be a good option for your .308, 19" is about right for a .308, and 9/16 is a semi-standard thread size for .30 cal and below with thinner barrel profiles.

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