Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats How easy is it to build a 6 to 6.5 lb custom tack driver?

How easy would it be to build a custom capable of 1/2 MOA or even better accuracy and the finished rifle be at 6 to 6.5 pounds? I really like the weight and feel of my Forbes 270 and it is that accurate and right at 6 lbs. The ejection angle however won't allow me to use any scope with turrets or even covered turrets. I am able to use a Swaro Z5 on it just fine.

I like the Swaro but would have more confidence for long term in a NF NXS 2.5-10X42. I'm thinking a custom 6.5-270 or even a Creedmoor if I must go short action for weight loss,and a NXS would be the last hunting rifle I would ever buy. I would however like the finished scoped rifle to be 8 lbs or under,and 7.5 lbs would make me very happy.

Is this possible? Any suggestions on action,barrel,and stock that would get me there?

Is there really a better chance of better accuracy going custom,or should I just buy a Tikka Superlight or a Fieldcraft? I've never had a custom built.

Going lightweight indicates to me you're wanting a field rifle, not a range gun. Have you considered whether or not you can hold the difference under field conditions between genuine 1/2 moa and 1 moa rifles?

It's a valid question,but honestly I like even my field guns to shoot accurately from the bench. I guess it just gives me more confidence,and I honestly doubt I would be happy with a 1.5" field gun from the bench,even if I knew I honestly couldn't take full advantage of more accuracy in the field.

I do too, and I'm not satisfied with 1.5 moa either. But I "got real" a while back about getting/needing below genuine moa in my hunting rifles, by which I mean five shot groups and not just now and then.

I think your build should be pretty easy - to make the weight anyway. I've done several, mostly all 7MM-08's or .243's that weigh just over 6 lbs naked and are about 7 lbs 5-6 ozs with scope and rings. And several shoot as good as my Tikka Superlite All kidding aside, building a accurate 7-8 lbs rifle shouldn't be that hard if you use a good smith and use the right parts.

For parts maybe start with trued model 700 action or 700 clone of choice. Stock would be either a McMillan Edge in whatever pattern you like or one of the Manners Elite Hunter stocks, barrel maybe a Bartlein 2b either fluted or not and kept under 23" for best balance. Either ADL or if BDL go aluminum to keep weight down. I think with Talley Lwt's and your scope you could be well under 8 lbs when all done.

I'd go Barrett since it is righthanded. Custom that is close to what you want:

Rem 700 stainless action - $425
Mcmillan compact edge - $600
Hart #2 barrel, or pacnor mtn contour - $350
Timney trigger - $175
Gunsmith - $450
Total - $2,000

It would come in around 6 pounds depending on barrel length. Way way easier to just buy a Barrett.

I've got several that are ~6.5 lbs scoped with a Leupold 6x42. Seven or 700 short action, edge stock, #2 barrel @ 22".....bumping the scope weight with an NXS will bump total weight. I've several that are extremely accurate.

You can almost hit that weight taking a stainless 700 sporter, chopping it to 22", and sticking it in a blind mag edge fill stock.

I like Barrett and agree on it being a custom killer, but understand the preference for a slightly heavier contour on the short action.

After having many custom hunting rifles built, then buying 4 Tikka T3s, A Sako FL, and many other really accurate factory rifles, I've pretty much came to the conclusion that I'll never build another unless it is a unique cartridge I just want to try for the heck of it. The good thing is when that itch hits, I can just rebarrel on an existing good platform.

When I first started having rifles built, I honestly thought I was getting a better rifle that would be so much more accurate lol. Live and learn...

Lets not even begin to speak about build issues and screw ups from supposedly Rock Stars of the 'smith world...

I have to concur. I have had several rifles built over the years, now I have several Sako's. I may order a custom barrel for my Contender in 25-35, but that is likely the extent of my custom work for a long while.

Take the field conditions out your only ever as accurate as your rifle is...Ive never met anyone who has turned down a rifle because it to accurate.

How many races would Earnhardt have won in a Mazda?

You're way off the mark.

Errors in shooting don't add linearly. It's more of a square root of a sum of squares situation. If there are several sources of error you're basically pissing into the wind fooling around with the small sources when the big sources remain unaltered, and a 1/2 moa bench shot group capability difference is one of the small errors in the field.

Bet id be a 1/2 MOA closer than you!!!

For some it's not so much of a numbers game, as it is a confidence-building thing. Having said that, PRS-style matches simulate field conditions, and IME there are scenarios where a 1 MOA barrel will cost you points, as where a 1/2 MOA barrel won't. On a target the size of elk vitals, this won't be the case until you get out past probably 600 or 700 meters, given solid field rests like prone with a pack and something for a rear rest, but if you plan on shooting that far or beyond, it becomes a factor. Even if you're not shooting game that far, there is still the confidence thing

Are PRS matches shot with 6.5 pound rifles?

The math says you'd be hard pressed to prove it.

That's not the point. I have plenty of pics of 1/2 MOA 3-shot groups I've fired with 6.5 lbs rifles, from prone and improvised rests, not heavy BR style rests.

You shoot your MOA

For a custom light rifle I'd be starting with something like:
SA stainless 700
Manners EH8 (best light hunting stock I've handled)
Rem sporter dupe barrel from whoever will make it, at 21" and 1-8".
6.5x47
ADL bottom.

Adding an NXS to that mix would probably get you to right at or under 8#.

Or, save the time and some cash and buy a Fieldcraft.

Tanner

I've owned several custom rifles, and a couple of Tikkas. If I wanted a light, accurate rifle, then I'd start with a Tikka or a Sako A7. You could buy several of them for the cost of one lightweight custom. They're incredibly accurate and fall within the weight range that you specified.


Okie John

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Here is a light build 8.2lbs

Details?

Very doable....

I have 2 of them, (customs), one on an M70 Winchester and another built on a Rem 700 short. Both weigh less than 6.5 lbs each without optics and mcmillan edge stocks. Standard stuff done to them both, trued actions, custom barrels and sights. Both guns shoot 1/2 MOA or less with match and one shoots Federal fusion into bugholes for 5 rounds. The weight really starts to show when you add optics to the equation. I put a nightforce SHV 2-10 on the Rem. 700 308- Weight is now around 8lbs all up.

Very very nice. Knowing very little about customs,I'm afraid I don't recognize all the parts. Can you give some specs please. Could you give a ball park cost? PM if you like.

Clark, Jon Beanland built 6.5 Saum, Defiance Rebel XM action, Defiance SS XM BM, Jewell trigger, Bartlien 2b barrel crowned @24" bedded in a MCM Classic edge, the weight is 8# 9 oz's which I know is heavier than your looking for but with a lighter contour or fluting and aluminum bottom metal 8# should be pretty easy!
Parts today would be around $2750.00
You could save a good amount going with a 700 action and BM and a cheaper trigger and still have an accurate 8# rifle that will be more consistent than most factory offerings, just don't cut corners on your builder!

Thank you sir.

Congrats on a beautiful rifle, Jon does fantastic work! 8.5 lbs with scope is the kind of weight I like personally.

Does that Defiance XM bottom metal use a 3” mag box?

Thanks, and Jon does very nice work, technically 3.2 but your correct it is only made to fit the XM actions!

Yet many people fuss over their barrel channel gap ,exact barrel length/contour, paint color of stock,
insist on cut-rifling barrels , strive to squeeze that last 50 or 100 fps from the muzzle, ....etc, etc,

none of which give or take a bit here and there, really makes a better practical purpose hunting rifle.

Since striving for accuracy and all those other things aint really worth it in a practical sense,
then maybe they should get another hobby to invest their time and money in.., maybe a telescope to gaze the stars
..or good whisky...or both,

I'm not throwing away precision arbitrarily, but I'm just being realistic about what I can make use of in a given situation.

I do think that it is easier to make a 6# rifle that will shoot .5 MOA than to ensure that your light rifle shooting technique does not add .25 MOA to your results. The former only requires the application of money; the latter demands time, attentiveness, and diligent effort. As an illustration, I have a 40X-based bench gun in .22lr that is truly a one hole gun. I also have a NULA .22lr that weighs about half as much, and I really think that its inherent accuracy is virtually as good. But it only takes the slightest slip up in my attention to technique to start to throw shots out with the NULA.

Against all odds, my lightest build to date has inexplicitly ended up being my most accurate lightweight hunting rifle. It is a 30-284 on a Pierce titanium action with a fluted #2 Mullerworks 5R barrel in a 17oz MPI stock. The rifle weights 4lb 10oz bare and 5lbs 8.4oz with a 2.5-8 Leupold in talley ultralights. With 150gr Cutting Edge Raptors over Reloader 17, it has shot three shots into one ragged hole at 100m on the last 4 trips to the range.

Agree with the previous sentiments that this level of accuracy from the bench does not automatically translate into accuracy in the field but a #2 barrel on a TI action is far easier to shoot offhand than a Featherweight contour barrel on a steel action due to the weight being further forward.

The gunsmith who built it read me the riot act on needing a #4 or #5 to get top accuracy but after shooting it himself, he is making himself a 280AI on a Pierce TI and a #2 Mullerworks barrel.

i am curious how the ejection angle will change with other actions and if the original problem the op listed in his opening statement will still be there ?

i do know Borden rifles has a new hook extractor that will allow for a lower ejection angle but arent melvins rifles set up with the same ejector in the same location as other actions

There is pretty much only one place on a 700 type bolt to install a sako extractor but the ejector can be placed so it helps produce a lower ejection angle!
Pretty sure Bordens new "hook" extractor is similar to what HS precision uses on the actions!

It is easy to stay at or a little under 7lbs scoped with a model 7 or shortaction700. 20” number 2 barrel and a McMillan edge or a bansner/ high tech specialties stock get you there. I don’t spend on getting flutes or skeltonizing- I do add a mini m4 style extractor, and a larger bolt knob. Basically you can get to under 7lbs scoped in those platforms without having to nitpick about using the lightest components, and instead focus on practicality, function, and (within reason for a light / mountain rifle) ergonomics. The 20” number 2 feels good with an ultralight stock nice bit of weight out front. - Feels all screwed up in a heavy laminate stock though like you’re trigger hand is doing the heavy liftin and squeezing the trigger and your other hand is trying to keep the barrel from floating away. Anyway it’s easy to build an easy to shoot Ergonomically effective sub 7lb scoped rifle that will hold .5moa. All my light rifles have tubbs speedlock or gretan fireingpin/spring assemblies for faster locktime. Some guys say it only shows up at the bench. In my experience with proper discipline and form- it only shows up in the field. I can shoot tiny groups off a rest with slow freaking rifle- but with my heart and lungs going hard adrenaline flooding my veins and hands shaking- when my pulse is pounding in my temples and fingertip is when the locktime really makes a difference.

You can absolutely save money on a tikka or whatever if you like, but if you want a rifle that is a purpose driven build utilizing components and a decision making process that is based on performance rather than cost effectiveness, and is tailored to your body, and what your experience has dictated is important- then maybe don’t go for the tikka. I don’t know


Reread your original post- and your goal of 7.5lbs with a robust scope is reasonable in a long action. And even at that- just because a cartridge OAL length might call for a Long action it’s powder column might not need a long tube for efficient/consistent burn. I don’t know if the range at which you hit 1350fps with an individual rifle would be very dramatically effected by going from 24” to 20”. Your dope would change plenty but your max effective range as defined by supersonic velocity with a High BC bullet you might lose what 10 yards?

Thank you for that well thought response. You have given me much food for thought.

Let me offer another direction to go. I built 2 customs on Kimber actions. The first one was to be a lightweight rifle to carry up and down the mountains where I live in pursuit of Coyotes. The very cheapest way for me to go was to buy a new Kimber Montana utilizing the action, trigger, and stock. Then I had the action squared, lugs lapped, a new Lilja barrel installed matching Kimbers contour and I rebedded it. 6lbs. 4oz. ready to hunt. Brand new rifle $1000, barrel plus machining and installing $750.
A couple of years ago I decided I wanted a custom Deer rifle. Located a used 2 position safety Kimber Classic. Had all the same machine work and installation of barrel done. And again, a Lilja in a Kimber contour. This time I built the walnut stock for it from a blank of English Walnut. This one was a bit more because of the stock. 6lbs. 13oz. ready to hunt. As for accuracy at 100yds with these 2 light weights.....................

The first build was a 17 Rem.





The second build was a 243




I find these to be easy to shoot from a bench and more accurate than I can shoot nowdays.

Save the money and buy a Tikka T3 ultralight or youth model and put a light Mcmillan or Manners on it. My tikka shoots any bullet I load for it under half moa and doesn't matter if it's jumping .170 with 125gr bullets or .010 jump with 168 grainers. For a hunting gun I'm impressed.

Lots of truth in this!

2 things

1 Must be getting really screwed by my gunsmith***
2 I bought a fieldcraft in 6.5 creed with 22" barrel. It shoots INCREDIBLY well if I do my part!

I have known more than one gunsmith that would offer no accuracy guarantee with no less than a #4 contour, and a #5 is preferable. They just said that you take your chances.

The shooter's skill sets...........

Why build when one can buy.
When they first came out I bought a Remington 700 TI first gen in .308 and put some aftermarket aluminum parts on it with a Leupold 2.5x8 vx3 on it and it weighs 6 lbs .03 oz
That thing consistently places three shots touching on pretty much every load I’ve ever tried.
I love that rifle and when I get the chance to go to Alaska for moose that’s what’s going with me.

This^^^

I’ve built two on Kimber Montana’s. One is a little heavier than original as Rock missed the contour and the smith didn’t notice. One is right at 5lbs bare (7-08AI) the other is like 5-8 bare (6XC) both shoot under inch with several loads.

Just buy a Barrett and quit overthinking this.

Probably good advice.

I wouldn't expect a Barrett to to offer the same level of consistency and accuracy of a well built custom!

I think it could well be possible. Hopefully some Barrett owners with many rounds down range report. The preliminary reports look promising

I own 2 GAPs and a Gre'Tan, so Im not easily impressed. The Barrett is a giant killer. I shot mine in a CM today at 1K and it is amazing what this little rifle will do.For the money they are a steal.

Barrel length on your Barrett?

Its 21" in 6.5 CM. Im using RL26 @ 47.9 grains with a 147 Hornady and getting 2790fps, 8.2 Mils @ 1013 yards, no signs of any pressure at all. I haven't found a fast powder with the 130's yet. Using RL 15 I'm around 2760 fps with a 129 Hornady and a 130 Berger. Not fast, but 1-1/2" three shot groups @ 300 yards.

I'll never build another custom unless it is in a unique cartridge or platform. I just don't think its possible to outperform a tikka, sako, etc when it comes to basic rifles.

Looking at the Barrett website....pretty well thought out rifles.

With your luck I wouldn't either...........

A lot of people would have my luck if they actually shot their guns, rather than just taking them out of safe for a photo shoot.

You could always try and change your luck ..............try some better builders!

I have friends with Tikkas and there not all that impressive but they are "cheaper"....................

Greg Tannel just built my SLR, and I used a Krieger...it should shoot.

dc-

Any one deciding factor in going SLR this time around vs. the 6mm Creedmoor?

I built the SLR on a Ruger so I had 2.900" to work with. Already had a Creed, and the SLR does offer a touch more velocity. This gun was a 7 twist 243 before I burned up the tube.

Works for me.

I've actually been toying with the idea of an SLR.
Did you go the no-neck turn route?

That's the problem....you built on a Ruger!

Try a custom like Borden or Defiance and things may just start looking up!

SKane...I had to go with a "turn neck". When you lengthen the neck you are now into shoulder brass. Tannel said I had to turn or he'd have to make the neck loose.

AckleyFan, I can't argue with your logic, but this action was recut, lugs recut, firing pin bushed, and already had larger bolt knob. This is the third barrel on this action and its been a shooter. Im building my 264 on a Tikka.

No flies on that and it keeps Norma and Lapua as brass options.

Can't speak to that point #1, but my last build included: bedding, threaded and chambered barrel for 6.5x47, threaded muzzle for suppressor, thread protector thrown in, lug thrown in, and trigger tuned. Total cost $510. Took off $60 figuring most don't need suppressor work. So far it is shooting .25-.5 moa groups off bench, but it weighs 13 pounds lol. That said, his lighter weight builds shoot very nice also.

I stand by the advice in #2. WIsh they made a lefty.

Just giving you a hard time on the Ruger, Greg is a good smith so not sure if it's a cartridge choice or not, but hey if Tikka's work for you at least you have an option!
Since I started having customs built I just can't go back to any factory offerings!

I just love tikka actions, light, stiff, sako extractor, adjustable trigger, easy swap bolt handles...