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MM

I have seen those before. I’d forgotten about them. Nice. I could see that being especially handy with auto loaders and levers.

Perhaps if you are loading the same calibre for more than one rifle, and can't be bothered to keep the ammunition separate for each one. Otherwise really rather useless IMHO.

capn -

First, I want to say to EVERY ONE, I'm not being critical of anyone or their preferences.

Capn, I have no experience with the go/nogo gauges. Thanks guys for your help.

I also have NO experience with 'collet' dies. As with many things WE have diff opinions and preferences.
All my dies are RCBS except 3 sets IIRC.
IF, IF set up properly P F L (partial full length) sizing JUST BARELY touches the shoulder. The majority of the sizing IS neck sized. That is what I've used for years and years WITH good case life.

In determining your cartridge length TO the lands -- insert the bullet UPSIDE down <nose down> in the case and close the bolt. That will tell you how much length TO the lands. NOTE - unless the case is SIZED, the neck probably will not hold the bullet when you retract the bolt.
Unfired brass MAY or MAY NOT hold the bullet securely.

*** As smokpole said early in this thread - your magazine length may determine your COAL >>> regardless of the distance to the lands.
IF that's the case (no pun intended), you must work w/in that length

Jerry.

I could see companies making them as a CYA thing too. There are a lot of repetitive steps and redundant ways used reloading. And all that’s a good thing too. It’s how it was making pharmaceuticals. I was in manufacturing and if you didn’t document it, and quantify it, it didn’t happen. Which reminds me, I need a new binder for keeping up with loads.

BTW, if you guys think of anything I may be overlooking, I’ll listen. And if anyone else has a question, I’d like to hear that too.

I fixed it for ya. MORE than 1 as time goes on.

Jerry

capn you can not ask dumb questions about reloading no body knows every thing but every body knows something

So the savage came today....... I’m stoked. This hog hunter is a well thought out little rifle. So. I’ll begin tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes.

Thanks again!!

Okay. If anyone is still around, I have another for you.....


Case prep. I’m not trying to get out of anything, just honestly curious. Does one need to chamfer after every reloading? My new starline brass is measuring out at 1.99-2.01. The trim length is 2.15. The trim to length is 2.05. So they’re short now. I would assume that after one starting load firing they wouldn’t need trimming. If not, do I chamfer again anyway? And what hand tools are good for that. I have the Lee tool now, and it works but I know there’s better. Someone mentioned a VLD tool. I can see that being great. Any particular one you guys like?

I chamfer after each trimming. No need to after each loading.

Don't assume anything. Measure. On any given firing, first or fortieth, if they're long then trim, if they're short then it's not necessary. Chamfer after trimming.

Thanks mathman. I will absolutely measure. I kinda miss used assume there. Properly stated, IF they aren’t longer after measurement, then it sounds like chamfering wouldn’t be necessary.

If you ding one and get a burr on the case mouth then of course chamfer to clean it up. Otherwise nothing to worry about until trim time.

Maybe this will be the last really basic question. I cant tell all of you how much it’s helped. I took good notes on everything and it honestly helped a ton.

I’m priming now. And I’m getting the seated as they should be. I have a lee challenger press, and I’m using the reverse stroke priming on the press. No die. I’m scared to death I’m going to set one off. No nothing else is close, but how often does that happen? I swear I’m going to get a bottle of champagne when these rounds are loaded.

Thanks everyone again. Really.

Your brass can grow with sizing too, so as MM says, measure.

I use a Lyman VLD that screws into a holder that in turn I chuck up in a cordless drill. don't us the Lyman outside chamfer tool, it's junk.

I use this holder for a my outside tool:
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...uth-deburring-tool-holder-prod34054.aspx

It holds this:
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...rring-tool-inside-outside-prod59413.aspx

Uhm yeah. That’s a whole lot better. Thank you. I have a small Bosch cordless I keep at home and I think that’ll be much better. So far, my only issues with the lee kit are the case prep tools are a little simple. But they ARE effective. My hands are killing me though.

Wear safety glasses and don't bother to put on clean underwear. Just in case.

You only need to chamfer very lightly, just to knock the corner off, and you only need to do it with new brass and after trimming. Usually I trim new brass back to minimum length after first neck-sizing, so it is all uniform and the case mouths squared up, then chamfer. Given that your new brass is already less than nominal length I'd be inclined to chamfer that brass lightly, and then see if it needs trimming after your first firing .If it does, chamfer lightly again after trimming. If it doesn't need trimming, it won't need to be chamfered again.

I've happily used the Lee tool for this for decades.

I prefer a hand-priming tool. You get a good "feel" as to whether a primer is going in cleanly, and as to when it is seated all the way.

I don't recall any primer ever going bang while I was seating it, whether using a hand tool, press, or even the old Lee Loader and belting them in with a mallet and steel rod (that always made me nervous, TBH). That said, you should wear safety eyewear, read and follow the instructions.

Simple and effective are a good combination of properties, not an "issue"

Capn

I haven’t dropped out. Was gone most of weekend. Checked yesterday about chamfer/trimming. You got good answers.

I have used the press for @ 90 % of my priming. I find it easier & quicker than the manual, hand primer.
I have NEVER ignited a primer while seating. It’s almost impossible for 2 reasons.

1. The primer face is flat, so it’s s the base of the primer cup tool.
2. The primer is ignited by a forced blow —not sqweezing.

I think I’m caught up w/you.

Good Luck

Jerry