Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Epoxy floor paint

Thanks guys. The reason for going single part is cost and use of the space. It will be turned into a man cave area with furniture and a TV. For now my 3 and 5 year old will ride bikes and play down there so no heavy traffic. Id like to have something I can have tinted. The single part seems a lot easier to work with and should hold up for my use, right?

We're tired of the kids looking like Casper the ghost due to all the dust when they come upstairs.

I bought a latex floor paint several years ago at Menards and I don't remember the brand. It held up pretty well except where I rolled a chair over it in front of my computer. I simply mopped the floor with a mild detergent, rinsed it with clean water and when it dried I used the paint on the part that was scuffed. I let it dry and used the rest for a second coat. It covered well and matched the paint that was not scuffed. The paint also dried quickly with little odor. It was an easy fix. Unless you are driving a car on the paint, I'd do the latex.

kwg

I would not trust a single part epoxy. An epoxy is a thermosetting plastic, you mix a hardener with a resin that creates a thermal reaction that causes the polymer molecules to link. If you have a one part it's going to get already cured epoxy thinned with something that will evaporate, not even close to the same.

I see the above as correct - the two types are far from the "same". However, the wear and tear factors in many home use situations normally are far from the heavy duty factors in industrial/commercial environments, so the reduced cost/complexity of the one-part product can be appealing - and sensible.

The garage floor I did with the one-part product was over 20 years old and had lots of stains of various sorts. We did the prep that the product called for, which wasn't difficult, and the results were very good.

I worried that the paint might not adhere well to some of the oil-stained areas, but it did, for the 10 years we used the garage, with cars in and out frequently. (No road salt where we live, however).

I watched a pro do my 2 part floor. They spent 2 full days prepping. They used a hand grinder on oil spots and concrete flaws. There were actually pieces of bark, twigs in the concrete that they chipped out. Then then used a concrete filler like Bondo in all the flaws. The next day they brought in a scarifier that looked like a buffer with a fine diamond buffing pad and ground the whole floor. Checked and repaired any flaws that showed and finally rinsed out the floor. They never etched the concrete, it was all prepped with abrasives. This floor was done about 10-12 years ago now, is well worn in some spots and yellowed in places on one side. I am not happy with the yellowing on the clear coat but the company I used went out of business.
My floor is well used and I have chipped it in a couple places but don't fault the product. I roll floor jacks on it and have not had one inch of it peel or lift off. I actually give credit more to the prep process that the product.

Pressure wash it good when it is warm and then have some one topcoat it with a self leveling concrete such as Ardex K301. I have used it down to 1/8" thick and it has held up. Probably better at a little thicker. It is a lot different to place that typical concrete. Wear old style golf shoes and squeegee it on. It flows out and cures hard. It is a bitch to get your tools clean if it hardens on them so be ready.