Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage 99 Picatinny Style Mount

Arrived today.

Made of steel, heavy.
If used on premil rifles, the base covers up half the cocked indicator pin. A small notch for the pin would need to made with a dremel Post mil rifles have the pin further back and it clears fine.

Four screws all the same length. Each was tightened individually in a premil rifle and each sucked up tight, except the front one. I had to shorten the screw a half dozen threads.

Box says Savage 99E, 0 MOA. I wonder if they offer bases for the 99 with elevation built into them for long range shooting?

Very well made base overall, but on one articular premil rifle when the front screw of the rear pair was tightened down, the base lifted off the front receiver ring slightly. It could be a variation in receivers. I don't have a dedicated need for this at the moment, I just bought it because I may make some of my own from aluminum stock and wanted to see it. Another paymt on the college education.

The one I had had been fitted to the receiver with bedding compound of some sort. I was suspicious of the fit so just left it all in place.

After finding the company that built it, I see I sold it way too cheap!

The instructions claim the product is precision made, blah blah blah. Standard boilerplate "We're awesome, at least in our own minds".

Oh, and by the way, if it doesn't fit, use two part epoxy and release agent and bed it to fit.

Mine came in today also.

Well made and ridged. Fits excellent. I wish it was 3/16" lower.

I am going to round the corners off and I may trim the front overhang off the receiver of about 1/4" off.

These will most likely replace the rotary windage adjustable mounts I have on my other 99's. I will be ordering several more after I get this on the .358 wring it out for reliability and make sure it will hold up to the task.

QD and the reliability of the weaver mount system is what I have wanted for years to fit the Savage 99.

The rear base where it contacts the rounded receiver is straight, not contoured to the receiver. It only contacts in one small spot.

I have had some time with this new mount now and while it is a quality piece, it is way too high for my needs. Needs to come down 1/4 of an inch for me to have the right cheek weld and scope and irons line up using on the custom stock I have for the .358. I am not going to a ridiculous monte carlo stock just for this scope base.

I am going to call the manufacturer and see if they can do one in super low which I doubt. If they can't, I am going back to my original plan of using a low steel rotary one piece mount with the area at the base mount holes machined as far low as possible in a slot to mount steel Warne Marlin 336 bases machined as low as possible in this slot and the screw holes line up. This will be as tight of a press fit as I can do and then they will be silver soldered to the one piece base. This should give me exactly what I want for a fraction of the price of the Farrel Picatinny mount.

Just for grins going to try it with Nikon Aluminum 336 bases and a Williams Quick Convertible Savage 99 base also. I think this would be fine with the .300 Savage and be able to use the tang screw holes for the mount in the back. I got a really nice .300 Savage with the front scope base screw holes drilled correctly but the rear two holes behind the bolt are drilled out of line and have been totally dogged out by some home gunsmith. The old school Williams mount covers this obscenity totally and turns an area that totally ruined the looks of the rifle into a very functional .300 Savage. Paid $200 for this beauty of a 99 because of this rear scope base fiasco, originally for parts only, but it shoots too damn good to part it out. You can find damn good deals on these home gunsmith scope mount specials and I seek them out for super cheap parts. While I would NEVER drill an original Savage 99 that is undrilled, I have a Forester Scope mount jig that can fix some of these problems and make a rifle serviceable again by properly aligning the screw holes. If the front two screw holes are out of alignment, not much you can do but it is typically there rear two holes that are hacked.

Will post pics in a few weeks when it is done.