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Brasso. It's like a mix of ammonia and JB borebrite.
kwg


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Originally Posted by kwg020
Brasso. It's like a mix of ammonia and JB borebrite.
kwg


That sounds great. Do you put a clothespin on your nose. ?





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Wipe out, Patch out. Simply works the best and doesn't smell ammonia nasty. Run two patches thru, come back in 20 mins, couple of dry patches, couple more wet patches and sit for 20.

Repeat if needed. No need for scrubbing with brushes!

Honestly with the number of rounds you put thru each year just about any of the usual suspects will work fine.


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Read the link carefully and see where your favorite bore cleaner comes in .Coretac does not make cleaning solvents by the way. I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.



Let me attach this once again

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[quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.[quote]

Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

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Originally Posted by RAN
[quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.[quote]

Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

RAN


Don't know what year it is , the KG12 dissolved it and best of all it doesn't stink or destroy bores if left in them.

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Originally Posted by ned
Wipe out, Patch out. Simply works the best and doesn't smell ammonia nasty. Run two patches thru, come back in 20 mins, couple of dry patches, couple more wet patches and sit for 20.

Repeat if needed. No need for scrubbing with brushes!

Honestly with the number of rounds you put thru each year just about any of the usual suspects will work fine.


Iā€™m in no hurry. Set my rifle in a cradle and run a patch thru barrel with patchout. At night before I go to bed run a dry patch thru. And recoat with patch out. Next morning dry patch. Keep up till clean. Hasbeen


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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
[quote=RAN][quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.
Quote


Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

RAN


Don't know what year it is , the KG12 dissolved it and best of all it doesn't stink or destroy bores if left in them.


I used to use KG12, but if memory serves, it etches the bore.


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Originally Posted by StudDuck
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
[quote=RAN][quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.
Quote


Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

RAN


Don't know what year it is , the KG12 dissolved it and best of all it doesn't stink or destroy bores if left in them.


I used to use KG12, but if memory serves, it etches the bore.


Nope no ammonia

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For 7mm. 6.5CM, .308, .270, 5.56, 7.62 etc. am of the Copper Equilibrium School, so I don't remove copper as there is never "excess", just what is needed. Hoppes #9 and CLP. Tetra on bolt lugs.

12 ga. Brenneke slugs...Hoppes #9 and CLP.

In my .44s and 45-70s I NEVER shoot anything but cast lead and the bullets are correctly sized to the bore, so just using Hoppes #9 for cleaning and Break Free CLP for very light lube and metal protection. Metal is sealed with Tetra for sliding surfaces.

Even with thorough cleaning I come back a week or two later and run a caliber specific RamRodz down every bore to see if it picks up anything.


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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Originally Posted by StudDuck
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
[quote=RAN][quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.
Quote


Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

RAN


Don't know what year it is , the KG12 dissolved it and best of all it doesn't stink or destroy bores if left in them.


I used to use KG12, but if memory serves, it etches the bore.


Nope no ammonia


Must be thinking of something else I used in the past. I will give KG12 credit, it's a good copper remover.


24HCF in its entirety, is solely responsible for why my children do not have college funds, my mortgage isn't paid-off and why I will never retire early enough to enjoy the remainder of my life.





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Originally Posted by StudDuck
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Originally Posted by StudDuck
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
[quote=RAN][quote=Oldelkhunter] I put KG12 on a tarnished penny and it dissolved half of it in no time at all.
Quote


Must have been an old penny. The US mint stopped making solid copper pennies in 1982.

RAN


Don't know what year it is , the KG12 dissolved it and best of all it doesn't stink or destroy bores if left in them.


I used to use KG12, but if memory serves, it etches the bore.


Nope no ammonia


Must be thinking of something else I used in the past. I will give KG12 credit, it's a good copper remover.


It's the best , nothing even close. I use Wipeout when I don't want to use brushes and patches.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe
For 7mm. 6.5CM, .308, .270, 5.56, 7.62 etc. am of the Copper Equilibrium School, so I don't remove copper as there is never "excess", just what is needed. Hoppes #9 and CLP. Tetra on bolt lugs.



Help me out: what is the Copper Equilibrium School?

How much is the tuition per quarter? Where do I mail my transcripts?

Last edited by shaman; 05/17/18.

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lol, training is available but it looks complicated....


Copper Equilibrium


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Originally Posted by ned
lol, training is available but it looks complicated....
Copper Equilibrium

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See Here.


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Refresh my memory again; KG12 does not produce a blue color when reacting with copper, it produces a tan or brownish color, correct?

Last edited by StudDuck; 05/18/18.

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Originally Posted by StudDuck
Refresh my memory again; KG12 does not produce a blue color when reacting with copper, it produces a tan or brownish color, correct?


Yes

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KG-12 is in a class by itself for dissolving Copper, but its best use is to get Kroil a toe hold under the Copper, so the brush can sweep it out in chunks.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...break_in_barrels.pdf?5242045189986305547

My system [loosly based on Walt Berger's system 18 years ago] is:
1) Moly coat the bullets, not in a medium, but in a plastic container put in the Thumler's Tumbler.
2) Bore coat the barrels and fire them a few times.
3) Clean bore with powder solvent on a patch.
4) Dry patch
5) KG12 on a patch
6) wait 5 minutes
7) Dry patch.
8) 20 strokes (Kroil and Flitz) or (Witches Brew) on a bronze brush (of diameter greater than groove diameter, check brush diameter often.)
9) wait 5 minutes
10) 20 strokes (Kroil and Flitz) or (Witches Brew) on a bronze brush (of diameter greater than groove diameter, check brush diameter often.)
11) Alcohol on a patch
12) dry patch
13) Inspect bore at muzzle with magnification and a light.
14) If an Copper is seen return to step 5), if perfectly clean return to shooting

My system does not have to believe in break in to do it. It is agnostic.

I made a video tonight on how to make a bore inspection light for cheap. Shove the light transmitting fiber optic up the breech, look into the muzzle with magnification. At the focal point you should see how well the bore was lapped. The inspection for Copper at the muzzle is done at an angle.





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šŸ‘šŸ¼


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I have a two bore scopes.

I have noticed that the soaking solutions seem to be very lacking in their ability to remove carbon deposit when 40 or more shots have been fired through the barrel...soaking.

Now use those same soaking solutions with good bronze bristle brushes, you will get the carbon out. Copper is easy to get out with the soaking solutions.

Typically when I examine a barrel when a guy has been soaking only, the barrel is usually black with carbon from one end to another...patches were coming out with only a slight trace of grey and the barrel was loaded with carbon to where accuracy was effected.

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