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Jorge, if you do any wood work, this is not a hard project.

I did these burl rosewood grips myself on a custom Old Army .50 cal, even installed the medallions.

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DF,

excellent job on those grips.

i'm amazed at your varied skill-sets.

have also enjoyed seeing your posts on your very nice handgun rigs...they were a surprise!


all learning is like a funnel:
however, contrary to popular thought, one begins with the the narrow end.
the more you progress, the more it expands into greater discovery--and the less of an audience you will have...
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Originally Posted by jorgeI
You are obviously correct, but hell, I had no issues with my 454 Casull Ruger out of the box and that is where I'm coming from.


Jack builds the grips to fit your hand precisely, from a tracing of your hand. The grips will fit the grip frame correctly. What most do not realize is a properly fitted set of grips makes the recoil Less abusive to the shooter. Those that use factory grips and have never used a set of grips made precisely to fit your hand do not know what you are missing.



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Thanks, Hi_Vel. Been doing it for a while.

When shooting cowboy action I had a pair of New Vaquero Rugers set up to "run like a Colt". I fitted these walnut grips, sent them to Errol Case in MO for checkering/carving. I like the look and feel. They were shaped to fit my hand.

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Same deal, except one piece rosewood on 3rd gen Colts.

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Then, I got a pair of 3rd gen .38 Spec. Colts from a CAS shooter in Dallas. He had bought them, got a retired Weatherby engraver living in S TX to engrave them.

I then sent them to Nutmeg Sports to be fitted with one piece ivory and deep dish Colt medallions, using the Colt rosewood grips as a pattern. They were my crown jewels in the CAS game. They have about the prettiest, soft case colors with an iridescent depth, of any 3rd gen Colts I've seen.

http://www.nutmegsports.com/index.htm

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Originally Posted by jwp475
Originally Posted by jorgeI
You are obviously correct, but hell, I had no issues with my 454 Casull Ruger out of the box and that is where I'm coming from.


Jack builds the grips to fit your hand precisely, from a tracing of your hand. The grips will fit the grip frame correctly. What most do not realize is a properly fitted set of grips makes the recoil Less abusive to the shooter. Those that use factory grips and have never used a set of grips made precisely to fit your hand do not know what you are missing.


I realize all that you are saying, I'm just not interested in "the process", i.e. mailing off, wait, etc.... Thanks for the help regardless.


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DF,

those are some real beauties--you continue to surprise!

with such fabulous rigs like those pictured, i could well imagine you going after some of them hogs down there...


all learning is like a funnel:
however, contrary to popular thought, one begins with the the narrow end.
the more you progress, the more it expands into greater discovery--and the less of an audience you will have...
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Yeah, we get pretty aggressive with those critters.

You can't kill'em fast enough...

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Congratulations, jorgeI, on the very fun purchase.

Originally Posted by Bighorn
JorgeI,

Congrats on owning one of the finest handguns made. I have owned three of them, still have one, that I hunt with, a 10" octagon barreled, MagNaPorted version, custom .454 Casull assembled with trigger job, sling swivel studs, etc. It wears a Burris 2X scope in Lovell mounts, and is crazy accurate with both factory and handloaded ammo.

It originally cost me around $1200 to have my gun built the way I wanted it. To do so today, with the options on it, would cost well over $3,000!

BTW- I see yours is wearing the Pachmayr grips. I tried them on all my FA Casulls, and went back to their original Rosewood grips- I found that allowing the guns to 'roll' back in the grip upon firing seemed to reduce felt recoil. Besides, they look really cool on the stainless FA's.



Very interesting. I had one and heard about letting it slide in the hand. I replaced the wood with the Pachmayrs and never went back. My favorite load was a Freedom Arms 240 grain hollow point at 2,014 feet per second. Occasionally I fired a whole calendar under 2" at 100 yards. Usually the groups ran about 2 1/2-2 3/4". One time I tried three shot groups from the same chamber. The first was 1 1/16", the second was 15/16" and the third was 9/16". I found it preferred CCI 250 Magnum primers. Mine ran an 18 ounce trigger.


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^^^^ I enjoyed shooting your .454 so much I picked up a Ruger Bisley. What was that group I shot, around 3/4ths of an inch at 100 yards. That was a sweet trigger and a nice scope, overall a truly quality rig. The only thing I didn't really like was the things the sling attached to because those hit my hand under recoil.

I can't shoot rubber grips, they tear my hands and make them bleed. Gotta use wood or hard / slick synthetic grips. The factory bisley grips didn't fit the frame well so I replaced them with black Hogue micarta grips, then did some filing to get them "perfect." I don't like bisley grips but with the .454 and full throttle loads i think they're fairly useful if not downright necessary.

Tom


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The FA grip shape may be the best of all. The Ruger Bisley is good, FA is better, IMO.

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My five shot custom Ruger built by Larry Crow of Competitive Edge Gunworks apparently for himself. Accurate as all get out though I have "only" loaded "Ruger Only Loads" in it. It is Taylor throated as well as bushed and line-bored. As slick a NM Ruger than I have ever owned.

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Man those are some beautiful grips


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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
The FA grip shape may be the best of all. The Ruger Bisley is good, FA is better, IMO.

DF


I agree with this. I've had several FA but my basic problem is that there is no transfer bar, and you are supposed to leave an empty chamber under the hammer. So you go from a 5 shot to a 4 shot. Great Northern Guns in Anchorage used to be a big dealer for FA. Now they won't carry them due to risk.


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Glad you mentioned that. FA 97's have an updated transfer bar, better IMO than the Ruger because it doesn't seem to affect the trigger pull.

Another issue with FA's. With a Colt, I load one, skip one, load four, cock and let the hammer down on an empty chamber. I can view the firing pin with no ctg case in the top chamber.

Because the FA's enclose the case head, there is no gap to check if the hammer is down on an empty chamber. Also, if you cock it, then let the hammer down, you have to re-index to have the hammer down on an empty chamber.

My question. How do you guys handle that?

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Speaking of line bore, this in a Ruger SBH that I sent to Jim Stroh for custom work. He line bored the .44 chambers to .45 Colt, installed a 6" Shilen barrel, built a custom front light, installed a long extractor. I had done a trigger job, put a spacer in the trigger spring to act as a trigger stop. Works well. I shaped the stag grips, installed the medallions. Almost as accurate as an FA. The SBH grip isn't as good as the FA, but not bad, lot better than the shorter SAA type grips. I installed aftermarket rear sight.

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My Model 83 PG .454 allows me to pull back the hammer about 1/4 inch and, when you release it, it stops about 1/8 inch from the firing pin. It is, practically speaking, an unmovable barrier. I don’t see how it can be overcome. I carry it that way loaded with five and think it's completely safe.

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Nice fish.

I like that set up.

Who makes that holster/belt?

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Marine: I noticed in your photo of the outstanding greyling you are wearing hip boots. If you ever fish where you need waders or wear a pack with waist belt, I recommend the El Paso Saddlery 1942 Tanker holster. The Crossfire Alaskan is another chest holster that is cheaper and more versatile because it can also be used on the belt. However I like leather instead of synthetic.

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