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Joined: Jun 2000
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Changed the oil, filter, bypass filter in the Duramax. Checked brake fluid, power steering fluid, tranny fluid. Will check tire pressure tomorrow a.m. while fueling up. Watch out doves.

smile


"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
GB1

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Added new shoes to the ole 2000 Dodge diesel, BFG Mud Terrain K 3s, excellent tire so far, low noise, good ride.
about to add a steering brace and Red Head steering box, next up is the heater core, dread that one.

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Hillbill:

I did the Redhead a few months ago. My OEM had 175K on it and had seen better days. So far, so good!

Replaced the worn out Revo 2s with Toyo open Country R/Ts a few weeks ago too. Feel fine now but jury is out on them until the end of the season at least. I have plans. smile


"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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Put a new Truxedo Lo-Pro tonneau cover on the Ford F-150.


You're Welcome At My Fire Anytime



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Rick
my truck had 159,000 on it, box was getting pretty loose. decided to fix the ole boy up, no rust, still runs good, tranny was built at 150,000, also have a 07 Tundra so the Cummins is just a farm truck basically. For some reason I just like those old trucks.

The K3s get great reviews, I doubt they will wear very long but they sure dig in the mud and rocks, first set I have had in 25 years, much better tire than they were back then

IC B2

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Originally Posted by RickBin
Changed the oil, filter, bypass filter in the Duramax. Checked brake fluid, power steering fluid, tranny fluid. Will check tire pressure tomorrow a.m. while fueling up. Watch out doves.

smile






It rained a little here the other day so I got bored and dumped 15 fresh quarts of 15w-40 into the ol' 6.0 Ford.

While it was draining my dad vacuumed up debris that I carefully pulled up from in between the radiators.

Pain in the ass.

Also pulled off another piece of loosing door molding or whatever the hell the 'decorative' runner on the bottom of the door is called.

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I started a little project today on the F-350. Got a few days to finish her up so no huge rush. Time to 'fix' the EPA stuff and make a few improvements while I'm in there.
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Mercy ceases to be a virtue when it enables further injustice. -Brent Weeks

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Originally Posted by RickBin
Hillbill:

I did the Redhead a few months ago. My OEM had 175K on it and had seen better days. So far, so good!

Replaced the worn out Revo 2s with Toyo open Country R/Ts a few weeks ago too. Feel fine now but jury is out on them until the end of the season at least. I have plans. smile



I've had the Toyo Open Country R/T's on my Ram 1500 for over 2 years now. Towing, highway, off road and they have been great. Still have a ton of tread on them, and when they are worn out, it's whats going on again.

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Replaced the( passenger side front inner seal on the 94 dodge 1500 4x4 ), New axle and hub bearing. Lower ball joint zirk fitting is rubbing. I will replace it with a plug. The New Detroit axle is just slightly larger than the Factory. Made a inner seal installation tool out of a 36" 5/8" all tread. Once you pull the vacuum shift. You can reach the seal. Use rod with nut on end to tap out seal. Take new seal and remove the O-spring. Find a washer that fits inside seal. Insert 5/8 all thread into axle tube, insert seal into spot centering as best as possible. put washer on rod. install nut. Now on the outside end of rod, anything with a 5/8" hole that spans the wheel hub hole and is strong enough to take the load of drawing the seal fully into its slot. I used a chunk of steel but a 2x4 and a steel washer would do it. Now install a nut on rod to act as the press, Just get it to your 2x4/washer ect. Now use 2 5/8" nuts on end of rod and lock them together. This is your hold point. Center the washer in seal, You can do this by feel. Center rod on out side and add just enough pressure to hold everything in place. Now double check that seal is centered. By feel again. Slowly ad pressure by turning pressing nut while holding end locked nuts with wrench. Stop, Take flashlight and look at seal from outside. Is it still centered? Is the seal pinched? No? then add more pressure until seal is set. Now disassemble the press by removing inner nut. With flashlight check that seal is set. Now reinstall O-spring on seal from vacuum shift hole. Gently insert well greased axle into seal. Vacuum shift gear is easy to tip out to make room. Test fit it on new axle. Mine was tight so I had to rub some burrs off the axle for smooth sliding. The tool will work on drivers side but the process is different. Hope this saves someone several hundred dollars. It was not as hard as it looks. On a level from 1 to 10 in mechanical difficulty. I would say it is a 3. Just takes some time.


The anti American Constitutional party (Democrat). Wants to dismantle your rights, limiting every aspect of your constitutional rights. Death by 1000 cuts is the tactic. Each cut bleeds constitutional rights to control you. Control is the goal.
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Transmission service on 94 1500 today, Not looking too good, Lot of crap on the magnet and aluminum shaving. Old gasket was a cork that leaked bad, Now gasket is a synthetic. I have it in the garage doing a drip test. 20 new lug nuts. When I put the old nuts on new hubs, They where obviously wore out.


The anti American Constitutional party (Democrat). Wants to dismantle your rights, limiting every aspect of your constitutional rights. Death by 1000 cuts is the tactic. Each cut bleeds constitutional rights to control you. Control is the goal.
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Lost 3rd and 4th gear week before last, had to drive home in 2nd gear at 50mph for 90 miles. Went to Ecuador for the week, got home this weekend, pulled the pan...its dead. Metal and clutch material a quarter inch deep in the pan...

Been getting estimates today....everything from a $750 cash and carry bench build to $3000 for a full tilt performance build.

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I took mine hunting the other day

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Campfire 'Bwana
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That is a sweet setup!


And a moose!

Last edited by SamOlson; 09/18/18.
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Added a sticker....


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I dig it.


Mercy ceases to be a virtue when it enables further injustice. -Brent Weeks

~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Finall fixed the leaky bulkhead connector sleeve on my transmission

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New lift pump. Put it on the dyno.

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Originally Posted by Ackman
New lift pump. Put it on the dyno.



Results?

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Originally Posted by RickBin
Hillbill:

I did the Redhead a few months ago. My OEM had 175K on it and had seen better days. So far, so good!

Replaced the worn out Revo 2s with Toyo open Country R/Ts a few weeks ago too. Feel fine now but jury is out on them until the end of the season at least. I have plans. smile


Did you send your box in direct to Redhead for a rebuild or buy a box from a reseller and send your core in?

I have an '06 2500HD Duramax with 140k and it has some steering wobble. I need to replace the tie rod ends, I am sure, but wouldn't mind an upgrade.

My steering column also makes some noise.


Regards,

Tom
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New windshield and rear slider glass today in big Whitey.

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