Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Winchester Collectors Finally got a Pre 64

I have the DDs on my .300 winny. My pap and I were a little concerned at first because of how they are installed as far as the rings. But they seem to work just fine.

Do you guys know the torque of the action screws?

I have never seen it quoted in inch pounds and frankly think it would be a waste to do so in an unbedded, unpillared wood stock. That being said, you want the recoil lug screw very tight, the tang screw pretty tight, and the middle screw not tight at all. I only tighten the middle screw until I feel pressure, too much and it is easy to bow the action.

Good luck with your M70.
I bought my featherweight.308 in the early 70s and it is still my "go to" rifle when game has to be taken.

Early on, I hand loaded and tried to see how small I could get the groups. My best was 5 shots in 5/8 inch, so I quit playing with it and went hunting with factory 150 grain ammo which gave the same accuracy. That was after I followed the NRA tuning recommendations to get the best accuracy.
They were simple as follows:
1. Take an Arkansas stone to the trigger (no need to replace it). Mine is slick as glass and set at 4 pounds and all my later rifles are also.
2. Float the barrel.
3. Scope it - mine still sports the original M8 4 power scope. Makes a nice, sturdy carry handle too.

There is one other thing I did that was very important - Magnaport it to minimize muzzle jump. This made a big difference on the bench and in the field. For example, early last year, I ambushed a sounder of hogs and made two quick head shots without ever losing sight of the game-off hand with both eyes open, bang bang!. Also an offhand running shot on one passing by.
Tune it and shoot it and you will love it!



PS After many years of hard hunting, I did have it re blued and the stock refinished.

Whoever ground that bolt handle should be publicly horsewhipped but it can be fixed. The dumbest thing I have seen is holes in the action for a side mount when the top receiver ring and rear bridge are factory drilled and tapped. Some people can't leave anything alone. You did good Sir.

We just removed the barreled action from the.(why I was curious about torque requirements). Seen where the barrel is touching the stock. Eventually I’ll get around to sanding it, my pap says he has some kind of oil to put on it afterwards. Might have Dugan Custom Gun Works Fix the bolt handle. My pap has convinced me to stick with the original stock. That is until I can’t wait anymore lol. Anybody know where I can get a better pre fit recoil pad. Maybe half thickness of the decelerator. Red is a plus

Might as well have Dugan's fit you a recoil pad as well as there is no pre-fit option.

Try this....

https://pre64win.com/collections/the-custom-shop/products/reproduction-winchester-recoil-pad

Kansan

Hubba hubba

Congrats Kyle on a good looking shooter and one of the best hunting rifles produced.
Many 270 FWT's were hunted hard, so use this as it was intended.

If were mine, I'd simply clean up the scallop in bolt handle rather than tig it, as either way its a post-factory mod, so may as well be functional.

Contrary to another's view, personally, I would never port a pre64 barrel, but that's me.

Good hunting !

Have any of you tried this peep sight? I like how compact and simple it looks. https://williamsgunsight.com/product/williams-wgrs-70/

I like the nostalgia and simple design of a peep, and have used them on bolt and lever guns with success. When headed for timber, I remove the insert, and only use the ghost ring.

The Lyman 48WJS is the gold standard for M70 receiver sights.

The use of that Williams sight will prevent scope use. Use a different style Williams or a Lyman 48WJS, 57WJS, or Redfield 70 sight that use the peep sight holes on the left rear of the receiver. You will be able to use a QD one piece base; some grinding on the base may be necessary for clearance but most likely not.

The peep would come off when I get the scope mounted

As I’m learning, what is the benefit of Williams bottom metal? And I was wrong, my .300 has the STD mounts.

Also. Does anybody have a McMillan Hunters EDGE they’d be willing to sell in a few months?

Could somebody inform me of what my bedding options are. The stock is rubbing the barrel in a few places but I heard it could be trouble if I sand it to free float the barrel but not bed the action, is this true?

^^^^^^^
I'd shoot it first:
One - Some pre '64's are pretty accurate just the way they are.
Two - Unless you shoot it first, you won't know if or how much any changes improved it.

GunDoc is right. Just shoot it and see what it does. If for no other reason, you have a baseline to start from. I've seen some bone stock pre 64's shoot pretty dang good though. Good suggestion on just shooting it and seeing how it does...