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OP
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I have a Remington 700 in 300 Winchester mag. Factory stock action and barrel. Never been altered. When shooting this gun the bolt binds badly when extracting a fired case. Sometimes so bad I have to tap the bolt with a brass hammer to get it back. Factory, hand loads, same thing. Acts like a pressure problem but can’t find any indication of pressure on primer, case, or chrono. All the reloads are well within load and pressure limits. I sent the bolt to Dan in Alaska to have it timed thinking that may be problem. Got it back and still same issue. I’m at a loss. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, 163bc
Last edited by 163bc; 06/24/19.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I had something like that happen with a Custom Shop 700 in fact the same symptons except I had to use a rubber mallet to open the bolt. I sent it back and they took 3 months to get it back to me. Their repair letter was very vague, they changed the extractor and smoothed the rails. Last custom shop remington.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Campfire Tracker
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OP
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I've had great luck with Remingtons thru the years. I'm sure some problem rifles get out but that's the same everywhere. I've managed to figure all of them out until this one. It's driving me nuts.
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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Late m0dels have very little primary extract0n. Needs a b0lt handle rel0cati0n. Yes, defective keyb0ard.
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OP
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Hi Butch, This rifle is about 15-20 years old. I bought it new. I fired it only a few times and had a mild load that seemed to work fine and was very accurate but the bolt would bind every now and again, nothing I thought was a big deal. I chalked it up to shooting groups in hot weather. I gave it to a friend who was moving to Montana that needed an elk rifle. He fired it a few times and the bolt issues popped up again. One time he said it was so bad he couldn't extract the spent case and had to take it to a smith to get it out?? That smith did some polishing and tweaking of some sorts but it still had same problem so my friend just set the rifle aside and gave up trying to fix it. We were talking about it one day and I volunteered to give it a whirl. It seems worse now than I recalled it being before???? Anything i shoot causes the bolt to bind really bad on extraction. The bolt lift is hard and once the bolt is at top of stroke it cannot be pulled back with hand pressure. It takes a rubber mallet or brass hammer to get the bolt back. The extracted cases look fine with no marks or pressure signs?????? So far I'm completely stumped. I had the bolt timed by Dan Armstrong in Fairbanks. Bolt handled was removed, relocated, and tig welded back on. I'm wondering if its an extractor issue? Defective bolt?? Not sure what else to try. I'm ready to replace the bolt and barrel??
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2001
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Late m0dels have very little primary extract0n. Needs a b0lt handle rel0cati0n. Yes, defective keyb0ard. Yes - depending on exactly where that bolt handle is contacting that primary extraction cam... I've seen some actually damaged to the point they won't work.. If the OP pulls the handle up slowly and watches where (or if) that handle begins to touch the cam, it might be an indication of where to address his issue.. The handle's base should touch at the beginning of the cam.. If it's halfway or more before it comes in contact, and assuming the cam is undamaged, then a slightly forward relocation to have that handle base touch early should cure it..
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69 Pro-Constitution. LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Hi Butch, This rifle is about 15-20 years old. I bought it new. I fired it only a few times and had a mild load that seemed to work fine and was very accurate but the bolt would bind every now and again, nothing I thought was a big deal. I chalked it up to shooting groups in hot weather. I gave it to a friend who was moving to Montana that needed an elk rifle. He fired it a few times and the bolt issues popped up again. One time he said it was so bad he couldn't extract the spent case and had to take it to a smith to get it out?? That smith did some polishing and tweaking of some sorts but it still had same problem so my friend just set the rifle aside and gave up trying to fix it. We were talking about it one day and I volunteered to give it a whirl. It seems worse now than I recalled it being before???? Anything i shoot causes the bolt to bind really bad on extraction. The bolt lift is hard and once the bolt is at top of stroke it cannot be pulled back with hand pressure. It takes a rubber mallet or brass hammer to get the bolt back. The extracted cases look fine with no marks or pressure signs?????? So far I'm completely stumped. I had the bolt timed by Dan Armstrong in Fairbanks. Bolt handled was removed, relocated, and tig welded back on. I'm wondering if its an extractor issue? Defective bolt?? Not sure what else to try. I'm ready to replace the bolt and barrel?? Sounds like the smith in question didn't do something right.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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Campfire Tracker
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I apologize if I'm way off base, as I'm no gunsmith...
But, could it be a chamber that is "out of round?" A slight egg shape in part of the chamber would make brass easy to chamber, but tough to extract, even with normal pressures, and perhaps hard to notice with the naked eye?
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Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
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Clean the bore & chamber as new,never fired.
A quality bore scope inspection of the chamber & leade followed by-
Polish the chamber w/ a piece of fired brass & 320grit silicon carbide lapping compound will tell the tale.
Said chamber is as rough as a corn cob.
Bolt & handle is Located/Timed/Tig welded for all aspects of Timing.
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Campfire Ranger
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If the extractor hold the case while you beat the handle with a mallet, You ain't got no extractor problem.
If the problem persists after the bolt has moved rearward a bit, it ain't timing.
That's obvious.
Dans the man. The chamber needs examined. If it has a ring in it, the brass will form out into that. As you force the case out of the chamber, you will size that bump back toward normal, and it won't be real obvious.
Feel a fired case, from shoulder to head. You may feel a slight bump.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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I had a similar issue on a factory Remington in 243. The culprit proved to be a burr in the chamber that was grabbing onto the fired brass. Gunsmith put reamer in and turned it by hand. Could feel the burr pop off. No more problems.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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I had a similar issue on a factory Remington in 243. The culprit proved to be a burr in the chamber that was grabbing onto the fired brass. Gunsmith put reamer in and turned it by hand. Could feel the burr pop off. No more problems. A burr would show on the fired brass, a ring might not.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Regular
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I too, think it’s a chamber problem.
Once had a Rem 700 custom shop gun that had this same exact issue. It was a chamber issue. My gun was 15-20 yrs old too.
I’d send it back to Remington and tell them to fix it(rebarrel it) or give you your money back. Absolutely no reason you should have to put any more money into that gun trying to figure it out. Sounds like it was bad from the very start.
Leftybolt
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Sam, I forgot about this when we talk about this...
My STWs original barrel did the same thing.
Once it was re-barrel'd, problem went away.
Pretty sure it is a chamber problem
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I had a new 300 WM that had a bad burr on the chamber, right at the belt. Sent it to a Rem repair shop and in two weeks it was back in my hands, gun shoots like a $3200 custom rifle with 180g accubonds and ballistic tips.
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OP
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UPDATE:
Lee AKA Redneck fixed me right up. Quick and very fairly priced. Problem was as others suggested was a fouled chamber. Lee also filed a burr off the primary extractor cam and removed about .020 from the tip of the front action screw. Lee is 5 STAR.
The moral of this story is GIVE IT TO A PRO and save yourself a lot of time and frustration. Also on a side note i won't be using nickel plated brass to reload with anymore.
Thanks to all who posted and a huge hi five to Lee.
163bc
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Keep talking like that and it will go to his head.
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My '74 BDL in .300 winmag had a burr. Removed that and it was a fine rifle. Did it myself. No big deal.
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What do you mean by a fouled chamber? I have a Sendero 264 Win Mag that has the same issues yours did. It has been back to Remington once. It shoots fantastic but the extraction sucks. Looking for tips
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I think maybe some nickel from the case got embedded in the chamber. Nickel is harder than steel. I've had nickel "fouling" in reloading dies for the same reason. It can be hard to remove.
Whatever you said...everyone knows you are a lying jerk. That's a bold assertion. Point out where you think I lied. Well?
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